Kraton Sensored Motor and ESC for Kraton track racing?

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mtnwing

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Arrma RC's
I am trying to make my Kraton competitive for track racing. It's kinda personal as everyone laughed at me when I bought a new Kraton and brought it to the track all shiny and new. My goal is to prove them wrong that it can be competitive and win. Everyone is on the HB Racing band wagon at the moment at my track. I own a few Minizilla's so nothing against those guys but I love my Kraton and want to turn a few heads. I am thinking a Sensored Motor and ESC upgrade will help me be more competitive due to the low end control out of the corners as we have a tight twisty track. Looking at Castle and Leopard. What should I get or is there something else that is even better. Any recommendations on an ESC and Motor combination that is good for racing and an upgrade from the BLX would be appreciated. Also trying to figure out which KV and pinion. Currently leaning towards a Leopard 4274 4-Pole Brushless Sensored Motor 1800KV. Am I making a mistake? What ESC to pair with this?
 
I am trying to do the same thing and the Tekin 8 System is what I am being told is the best, but I am not sure its really needed, what i found more so is the tires and ride height and making sure everything is tight and durable. You will need to replace turnbuckle ends to RPM most likely else your steering will keep popping off. the ends that connect to bell cranks are very soft and crappy.

I ran 3 packs on a clay track the other day and did ok, IM running 4S and it might be too much
 
The tekin is sweet. I put the system in my typhon and it made a world of difference. Expensive... yes. Not waterproof... nope. Tons of upgrades and features... yes! Also gives me way more control on throttle and braking. I like it. It's a little bling, and a good conversation piece too. I have my stock system that I put back in for heavy bashing/wet days. And yes, I bash and race the same vehicle.
 
How do you do against the Team associated 1/8 trucks and other team kits. I almost feel like I am wasting my time trying to compete with lighter kits designed to race, but I want to try. In case that is a failure I bought a Team Kit B64 that I know wont fail me.

do you race on 4s?
 
A lot of it is the driver. They give me crap at the track, and tell me to go bash in my yard... then I show them how to drive. It's better on longer tracks but i am able to keep up (and beat them) on a good day. It's fun to be the guy with something else on the track.
 
Yeah. Gearing and tired make a huge difference. No 6s allowed. Something about tearing up the track...
 
you don't even want try racing on 6s trust me, I was running 6s on the track while my 4s was charging and it was way too fast, spent the whole time sliding into barriers with the brake smashed to the floor trying to stop, you cant even use 50% of the power on 6s, also I found that it damaged my tires and put allot of stress on them, they arent rated for 6s. I plan on racing with 4s, someone was telling me that its too fast on 4s, but im not sure i want to drop to 3s. or what that would even look like.

i just bought 2 more SMC 4s batteries and I plan on running those
 
I was running JConcepts Tripple Dees, they are so sticky the tires stick to each other when stacked.
 
You just have to set the esc up right. That's a big deal. The tekin does ok on 3s but tends to be better on 4s. If I'm doing 3s I gear down and lose top speed. It does fine on short tight tracks.
 
Nice. My track tends to be more loose dirt. I actually run duratrax lock ups. They seem to do great.
 
ok did my research. That Tekin 8 looks awesome. Thank you for the suggestion.
 
What pinion are you running with your Tekin. Give me a starting point. it appears there are different KV models. What are you using? So many setups so many options ...
 
I was going to buy the 2000kv, I am running stock motor with 13T, but when racing your using 4 inch tires not 6" tires so you can do what you want on pinion mostly running 4s.
 
I am trying to do the same thing and the Tekin 8 System is what I am being told is the best, but I am not sure its really needed, what i found more so is the tires and ride height and making sure everything is tight and durable. You will need to replace turnbuckle ends to RPM most likely else your steering will keep popping off. the ends that connect to bell cranks are very soft and crappy.

I ran 3 packs on a clay track the other day and did ok, IM running 4S and it might be too much
Stiffen your shocks at least twice as much as V3 factory shock sets, I ran Losi 40 shock oil, orange Tekno rear springs on Kraton rear shocks on all 4 corners, then tighten your droop screws down until they are flush with the A-ARMS, that way you have losts of cushion but low to the ground. If you want it to be stronger in the steering as well, get you a set of CEN COLOSSUS XT front steering links, exactly same length as stock KRATON, like 10mm vs 3 or 4mm stock. Figure out whichPin tires work best on that track, and get you a good transmitter/receiver combo, I recommend a SANWA. I have had Spektrum and Futaba, both are cheap in my opinion. Or SKYRC makes a good one as well, and Hi-Tech also. Your transmitter dial in practicing and for the race will be as important as the adjustments I just mentioned. After that just put in your time and you will find your rhythm. The transmitter setup is one of the most crucial parts whether anyone has told you that, I had to learn on my own. If I have told you too much, I apologize, and good luck
 
Stiffen your shocks at least twice as much as V3 factory shock sets, I ran Losi 40 shock oil, orange Tekno rear springs on Kraton rear shocks on all 4 corners, then tighten your droop screws down until they are flush with the A-ARMS, that way you have losts of cushion but low to the ground. If you want it to be stronger in the steering as well, get you a set of CEN COLOSSUS XT front steering links, exactly same length as stock KRATON, like 10mm vs 3 or 4mm stock. Figure out whichPin tires work best on that track, and get you a good transmitter/receiver combo, I recommend a SANWA. I have had Spektrum and Futaba, both are cheap in my opinion. Or SKYRC makes a good one as well, and Hi-Tech also. Your transmitter dial in practicing and for the race will be as important as the adjustments I just mentioned. After that just put in your time and you will find your rhythm. The transmitter setup is one of the most crucial parts whether anyone has told you that, I had to learn on my own. If I have told you too much, I apologize, and good luck

Can you get more specific about the reasons why you need a new radio.

I just ran the force race this weekend running 45 weight in all corners 32mm front 34 rear ride height mugen seiki springs 10k diff fluid up front 7k mid 5k rear jconcepts stacker tires

My esc failed had to buy a hobbywing esc, main motor bearing failed had to swap motors, and the hobbywing esc had WAY more power on 4s than the blx185. I practiced all Friday for 12 hours on blx185 then next morning for racing I only had 1 hour to practice and my esc died, so after swapping to hobbywing I had to race qualifiers no practice and the car was undriveable no matter how little throttle I gave it.

I turned EPA for throttle down for second qualifier and did much better. There was allot of good drivers there with actual race kits and I was running 40 second laps while they did 32.

My opinion is the kraton is a bit too heavy to take turns as fast as the race kits can with good drivers. I think if its just your buddies with bashers or bad drivers you could compete better

I think a better radio with a torque curve where I can program the throttle better I would have much better luck
 
I have been seeking the same and realized that I am going to bash more than race . I have the blx sytem and have come to conclusion of buying a motor that is set up on 4s and buy/build a car for straight out racing and will be getting the tekin rx8 v3
 
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