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Most sensored ESC's have the ability to run both sensored and sensorless motors. As far as I am aware you can run a sensored motor just fine on a sensorless ESC, it would be just like running a sensored ESC and sensored motor without the sensor lead.
I'm really all over the place on which way I want to go.I have a sensored ESC, and a sensored motor, running sensorless... LOL Works just fine. The sensor board in the motor broke. I removed the sensor wire and never looked back. Honestly can't tell the difference running.
It's a tough call, go overboard with a 150A ESC and 1/8 scale motor or just drop in the Castle Sidewinder.My thought is that Sensors only matters if you are either crawling, or are a top of your town club racer. For everyone else, either you will not notice or not care. Sensor motors really only matter below about 2-4MPH. Once the car is above walking speed, all but the crappy-ist motors and ESC are smooth.
I finally found a 2200kv motor with 3.17mm shaft, but it's sensored. Most the 2200kv's are 5mm, which means changing spur and pinion.Hi..i am a new user here. As per my knowledge sensored ESC's have the ability to run both sensored and sensorless motors. As far as I am aware you can run a sensored motor just fine on a sensorless ESC.
Most sensored motors can be run sensorless. Which motor are you looking at?
Features:
Sensor-based for excellent torque and low-speed driveability
Compatible with any sensored/sensorless ESC
From your link-
Also shows max current at 34a, so the 80a esc should work fine.
Are you planning on racing? Mostly the only time people use 17.5 motors is for racing. And if you are planning on racing the 17.5 class you need to make sure your ESC legal. If it has a "Blinky" mode, I think that is what is needed for 17.5 racing.
If it is a Just for Fun race, why not get something with a bit more oomph? like a 3500kv or 4000kv? With a 2wd buggy, you won't be able to put as much power down as with a 4wd sct, but still, that 17.5 motors are not real strong. Which is the point of that class. Remove HP and make it about tuning and driving.
Watching who has the best performing cars, not the over achievers with 1/8 stuff, they are running the 3800kv motors.
I has assumed my 3900 was "close enough" and now know why it really isn't.
Yes.Isn't that a 540 can motor? I am assuming you are putting that in a 1/10 scale?
The motor you linked was a 2200kv motor, which is a long way from 3900kv.
With that said, this is for a Rustler, right? I can see low power motors working OK. My old Losi XXCR runs a F540, in a 3000kv flavor. Low amps, decent torque, decent to end. Most folks that see it run are surprised it is powered by a moderate KV 380-sized motor.
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