Senton 3s BLX spur gear

[blackhawk2k7]

Hey all, I've had my kraton for a couple years and have done it up tastefully, and love it!

Just recently picked up the the Senton BLX 4x4 and instantly fell in love. Heard a couple squeaky bearings and replaced ALL of then with Fast Eddie's sealed.

Took it out again today (first time on dirt/sand) and ended up stripping the spur gear 10 minutes in. I can remember setting my center diff slipper a little tighter, but didn't think that 1/4 turn tighter would lead to destroying the spur.

Kind of thinking that peekaboo hole on the bottom getting inundated with sand and such may have added to this.

Annnnnyyywaayyyy, point of this post is I am looking for a metal spur gear solution, or something to make it so an idiot like me won't strip it again.

Thanks all!

 

[DoNoHarm]

Hey all, I've had my kraton for a couple years and have done it up tastefully, and love it!

Just recently picked up the the Senton BLX 4x4 and instantly fell in love. Heard a couple squeaky bearings and replaced ALL of then with Fast Eddie's sealed.

Took it out again today (first time on dirt/sand) and ended up stripping the spur gear 10 minutes in. I can remember setting my center diff slipper a little tighter, but didn't think that 1/4 turn tighter would lead to destroying the spur.

Kind of thinking that peekaboo hole on the bottom getting inundated with sand and such may have added to this.

Annnnnyyywaayyyy, point of this post is I am looking for a metal spur gear solution, or something to make it so an idiot like me won't strip it again.

Thanks all!

Hmmm, I like my plastic spurs as everyone knows, but at this point there's no reason on convincing people why to stay plastic. Robinson racing makes killer stuff. They're pretty bombproof.

 

[Jeremy in WI]

Hey all, I've had my kraton for a couple years and have done it up tastefully, and love it!

Just recently picked up the the Senton BLX 4x4 and instantly fell in love. Heard a couple squeaky bearings and replaced ALL of then with Fast Eddie's sealed.

Took it out again today (first time on dirt/sand) and ended up stripping the spur gear 10 minutes in. I can remember setting my center diff slipper a little tighter, but didn't think that 1/4 turn tighter would lead to destroying the spur.

Kind of thinking that peekaboo hole on the bottom getting inundated with sand and such may have added to this.

Annnnnyyywaayyyy, point of this post is I am looking for a metal spur gear solution, or something to make it so an idiot like me won't strip it again.

Thanks all!

When I had the old 48p gears in my granite, I cut a slot in the chassis right below the spur which definitely made a difference in the sand. I think giving the sand a way out is easier than trying to keep it out, and have now done this on all my plastic chassis.

 

[DoNoHarm]

Good trick. I used to do that on my slash 4x4. You should probably do it @blackhawk2k7

 

[blackhawk2k7]

Hmmm, I like my plastic spurs as everyone knows, but at this point there's no reason on convincing people why to stay plastic. Robinson racing makes killer stuff. They're pretty bombproof.

I can see where plastic spurs would be parts-saving for sure! I have an RR pinion on my Kraton, awesome quality! Not having any luck with find one of their spur gears for my rig unfortunately..

When I had the old 48p gears in my granite, I cut a slot in the chassis right below the spur which definitely made a difference in the sand. I think giving the sand a way out is easier than trying to keep it out, and have now done this on all my plastic chassis.

I'll definitely see about doing that, I've heard about gorilla taping the cutout, but one good landing and that'd end up being some sort of FOD in the system.


After looking at dedicated sites, my oblivious butt found that Hot Racing makes a metal drop in replacement. P/N SATF257.

Going to go down this route for now. Then slowly break and replace all the parts downstream of this...

 

[DoNoHarm]

Lol, nah it won't be that bad. Really the only reason plastic is better is because if a rock gets in there with a plastic it just strips. If it's metal you can say goodnight to your motor, the inside will get massacred by the shaft snapping off. A metal spur doesn't really protect the drivetrain from anything compared to a plastic one, only the motor.


Let me know how that HR one works out.

 

[blackhawk2k7]

Lol, nah it won't be that bad. Really the only reason plastic is better is because if a rock gets in there with a plastic it just strips. If it's metal you can say goodnight to your motor, the inside will get massacred by the shaft snapping off. A metal spur doesn't really protect the drivetrain from anything compared to a plastic one, only the motor.


Let me know how that HR one works out.

That's more or less what I was referring to, however I am dumb for not actually looking at my spur/motor-pinion. Everything is absolutely fine. Nothing is actually broken. I assumed it was because the motor kept spinning and both front and rear diffs seemed happy. Just wanted to dry it out before disassembling.

The problem:
Center diff slipper came loose facepalm...hard

I thought I had followed the manual almost to a tee, even putting the slipper a little tighter... but here it is, loose and perfectly functioning.

From what I read, the stock setting was all the way tight then 1.5 turns loose. Is that wrong????

 

[Jeremy in WI]

That's more or less what I was referring to, however I am dumb for not actually looking at my spur/motor-pinion. Everything is absolutely fine. Nothing is actually broken. I assumed it was because the motor kept spinning and both front and rear diffs seemed happy. Just wanted to dry it out before disassembling.

The problem:
Center diff slipper came loose facepalm...hard

I thought I had followed the manual almost to a tee, even putting the slipper a little tighter... but here it is, loose and perfectly functioning.

From what I read, the stock setting was all the way tight then 1.5 turns loose. Is that wrong????

You might need to put some thread lock on the screw for the slipper. I've read complaints that it backs itself out sometimes. Red is not recommended, probably use blue.

 

[blackhawk2k7]

You might need to put some thread lock on the screw for the slipper. I've read complaints that it backs itself out sometimes. Red is not recommended, probably use blue.

Thank you, good thing I've got plenty of blue! Had a hard enough time with the factory CV inputs when taking them off the diffs. Couldn't imagine they were red...

I've inspected the slipper components to see if I did anything wrong, so far it's all copacetic. Throwing her back together. Any suggestions on tightness vs OEM?

 

[Jeremy in WI]

Thank you, good thing I've got plenty of blue! Had a hard enough time with the factory CV inputs when taking them off the diffs. Couldn't imagine they were red...

I've inspected the slipper components to see if I did anything wrong, so far it's all copacetic. Throwing her back together. Any suggestions on tightness vs OEM?

I had both at stock 1.5, just recently adjusting one tighter (3/4ish) to try it out, but I haven't had a chance to run it yet. I've seen recommendations of as little as 1/2 turn back from tight, so I would say 1 turn would be a good starting point if 1.5 seems too loose.

 

[blackhawk2k7]

I had both at stock 1.5, just recently adjusting one tighter (3/4ish) to try it out, but I haven't had a chance to run it yet. I've seen recommendations of as little as 1/2 turn back from tight, so I would say 1 turn would be a good starting point if 1.5 seems too loose.

I'll try 1 turn and the blue stuff

Thank you kindly

 

[bicketybam]

I do a 1/2 turn out from tight. No issues so far. Don't crank it down too tight when you go to adjust it. You can break the slipper hub. Ask me how I know