Senton Senton 3s BLX stock shock oil and spring settings?

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Eastside SN blx

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
Had the Senton 3s BLX for 2 weeks now, loving it. I read somewhere the stock shock oil is 30wt. Is that right? I was wondering before I start messing with different oils. If your using the 3s BLX with stock shocks, what wt. oil and spring pre-load settings are you running, and what kind of terrain are you usually on? I run mostly old 125cc moto tracks out here in the Californian Eastern Sierra Nevada dessert. I find the jumps at 250cc tracks are to big (even for my Yeti XL). So is 30 wt. stock? What settings are you running?

On a side note. 1st day out, during the 3rd battery the drivetrain started to bind up. I found out that rocks were jammed under the motor/heatsink and deflecting the Trans. mount, to the point it was binding on the rear Diff. input. Since then I make sure there are no rocks jammed under the motor after every run, no problems.
 
I recently contacted Arrma regarding stock oil weights and here is their reply...
"The shocks have 550cts(42.5)wt shock oil in them. The front and rear diffs have 7000 wt diff oil in them."
Thanks "slim1990" that's what I was looking for. I have some 15wt, 30wt, and 45wt laying around so I'll try 30wt first. I also have some 100000wt diff fluid to put in the back diff to help lock it up.
 
I had one shock leaking oil on the first run out of the box. I bought a shock kit and some oil. How much oil do I put in the cylinder? Do I fill it all the way or is there a fill line?
 
I had one shock leaking oil on the first run out of the box. I bought a shock kit and some oil. How much oil do I put in the cylinder? Do I fill it all the way or is there a fill line?
I fill them to just below the thread line inside the shock body. The caps on these shocks have slits cut perpendicular to the threads to let oil out as you tighten the cap on. You end up with the perfect amount in the shock every time. Really innovative design.
 
I fill them to just below the thread line inside the shock body. The caps on these shocks have slits cut perpendicular to the threads to let oil out as you tighten the cap on. You end up with the perfect amount in the shock every time. Really innovative design.

Agreed. They did a really good job of making the truck "idiot-proof" as I say in my review video! I know a lot of people change the shocks, but personally I think the stock shocks are totally fine and probably the best plastic shocks I've seen. Yes, high-end aluminum shocks will be better, but the stock ones are actually pretty decent for a $300 RTR!
 
If anyone’s curious, stock BLX pistons are 2x1.25mm holes. I just measured them.
 
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Just to the top of the crosses. Not 100% fill. Too full will 1) make a mess and spill out, and 2) add extra load to the gears.
 
Just to the top of the crosses. Not 100% fill. Too full will 1) make a mess and spill out, and 2) add extra load to the gears.
I usually fill just after the crosses on my 1/8 scale but the senton 3s doesn't have crosses,it stands up. Definitely looks different . Ill just fill it half way. Thanks for the reply
 
I usually fill just after the crosses on my 1/8 scale but the senton 3s doesn't have crosses,it stands up. Definitely looks different . Ill just fill it half way. Thanks for the reply
Oops didn’t notice this was the 3S. Yeah I fill a little more than half. Prob at least cover the lower set of satellite gears.
 
Oops didn’t notice this was the 3S. Yeah I fill a little more than half. Prob at least cover the lower set of satellite gears.
I changed the bearings in diff but feels notchy like a lil binding,doesn't feel as fee as stock,is that normal?
 
No it’s not. Some debris or broken gears maybe. Inspect well until you find the issue.
 
Gears looks good,if i loosen the screws on the diff siff case it spends freely but when tighten is when it binds
I would be checking the indents where the satellite pins sit in the bottom and top of the diff case and see if there something in there, even a tiny bit will make it bind.
 
Gears looks good,if i loosen the screws on the diff siff case it spends freely but when tighten is when it binds

Try moving the thin shim washer to the other side. I feel the stock diff is shimmed too tight.
 
I messed up ?‍♂️, stripped the lil screw that holds the outdrive. Tried to drill it out but melted the plastic piece that covers the diff bearing. Ordered a new diff with housing. Thank God its not pricey like the 8 scale diffs. Learned my lesson but wish it was a stronger screw
 
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