Senton Senton 3s diffs sticking

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

sentonist

Active Member
Messages
173
Reaction score
65
Location
Bandera, Texas
Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
So was driving my senton around, no problems after driving 10 mins or so, and all the sudden the car seems to stutter as if the motor is struggling to move. Although, it doesn't seem to be causing a huge issue moving it back and forwards doesn't seem to have much resistance. Now, it could also be my ESC causing some sort of issue, as I've had plenty of problems come from that, but the only obvious problem is the diffs sticking in one spot. Anyone got some experience or tips? Thanks!
 
So was driving my senton around, no problems after driving 10 mins or so, and all the sudden the car seems to stutter as if the motor is struggling to move. Although, it doesn't seem to be causing a huge issue moving it back and forwards doesn't seem to have much resistance. Now, it could also be my ESC causing some sort of issue, as I've had plenty of problems come from that, but the only obvious problem is the diffs sticking in one spot. Anyone got some experience or tips? Thanks!

Pull the center driveshaft and the power module. Push the truck on flat, smooth ground and see that it rolls freely, slowly coming to a stop. Then you can leave the power module out, bit have it hooked up to the ESC. Apply throttle and let off. The spur gear should spin and then slowly come to a stop. Of it just abruptly stops it's either bad bearings on the slipper or the mesh is too tight. Try those things.
 
Pull the center driveshaft and the power module. Push the truck on flat, smooth ground and see that it rolls freely, slowly coming to a stop. Then you can leave the power module out, bit have it hooked up to the ESC. Apply throttle and let off. The spur gear should spin and then slowly come to a stop. Of it just abruptly stops it's either bad bearings on the slipper or the mesh is too tight. Try those things.
I had actually tried rolling it already, doesn't seem to have any resistance. The spur gear is moving smoothly, I'm wondering if it is the ESC, during operation, it's as if it's wanting to move on its own, despite the throttle trim being correctly set. But with the rear diffs, it seems it only gets stuck when it's spinning slowly, but if It's rotating faster, it doesn't seem to get stuck. I'm actually started to point towards it being the ESC, since for one, the reverse does not work, it's been stuck in programming mode before, miraculously sorted itself out, and was stuck flashing red indefinitely, and has been making odd noises.
 
mine does it too... its prob gravel inside it.... i just forward and reverse and shake it upside dow til it stops... unless its a bigger problem?
 
I had actually tried rolling it already, doesn't seem to have any resistance. The spur gear is moving smoothly, I'm wondering if it is the ESC, during operation, it's as if it's wanting to move on its own, despite the throttle trim being correctly set. But with the rear diffs, it seems it only gets stuck when it's spinning slowly, but if It's rotating faster, it doesn't seem to get stuck. I'm actually started to point towards it being the ESC, since for one, the reverse does not work, it's been stuck in programming mode before, miraculously sorted itself out, and was stuck flashing red indefinitely, and has been making odd noises.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "stuck."
 
if you're referring to when I mentioned the ESC being "stuck" I meant to say that it would not operate or function, it would just stay in this mode of constantly blinking red.
 
mine does it too... its prob gravel inside it.... i just forward and reverse and shake it upside dow til it stops... unless its a bigger problem?
I opened up front and rear diffs, took out the driveshaft and the motor, and really can't see anything that's prohibiting function, so I'm guessing it's just the ESC giving me issues, since it will work sometimes, other times it won't.
 
If you touch your throttle trim at all, you need to recalibrate the ESC so it knows where the new neutral is.
 
If you touch your throttle trim at all, you need to recalibrate the ESC so it knows where the new neutral is.
Really?? So say I move the throttle trim on accident, then set it back to the factory setting, would I still have to re-calibrate it, since it's back to stock?
 
if you're referring to when I mentioned the ESC being "stuck" I meant to say that it would not operate or function, it would just stay in this mode of constantly blinking red.

The title of the post is "diffs sticking." I assumed that you meant when you rolled the car by hand you could feel it binding. Or if you had the car off the ground, gave it throttle and returned to neutral, the wheels would pretty much stop rotating instead of slowing gradually to a stop. But as a reread everything, it sounds like when you hit the throttle from a dead stop, sometimes the truck will not go forward at all and other times it will. If that is indeed the case, it has nothing to do with your diffs sticking. It is your BLX100 which needs to be replaced.
 
Really?? So say I move the throttle trim on accident, then set it back to the factory setting, would I still have to re-calibrate it, since it's back to stock?

It depends on the ESC, the BLX100 is a Hobbywing which has a "neutral dead space" which is usually 6-9% of throttle. So if you go back to within that neutral dead space then neutral will still act as neutral. If you're on the edge, you could get some weird behavior where it could be applying a tiny bit of throttle or brake depending on how well the trigger went back to neutral. There's a fair amount of tolerance in the trigger plastics and potentiometer, so it can sometimes be in there and sometimes not.

The other problem is you don't know where it was set to from the factory, IME it's rarely exactly at neutral, and those dials are so small it's hard to get it back to "where it was" anyway.

Since it's free and you've been messing with the trim, just set it to where you want it to be and recalibrate and see if that fixes your problem. My Arrma Fazon Voltage had a similar problem because my nephew moved the throttle trim and then it was acting all weird until I reset it.
 
It depends on the ESC, the BLX100 is a Hobbywing which has a "neutral dead space" which is usually 6-9% of throttle. So if you go back to within that neutral dead space then neutral will still act as neutral. If you're on the edge, you could get some weird behavior where it could be applying a tiny bit of throttle or brake depending on how well the trigger went back to neutral. There's a fair amount of tolerance in the trigger plastics and potentiometer, so it can sometimes be in there and sometimes not.

The other problem is you don't know where it was set to from the factory, IME it's rarely exactly at neutral, and those dials are so small it's hard to get it back to "where it was" anyway.

Since it's free and you've been messing with the trim, just set it to where you want it to be and recalibrate and see if that fixes your problem. My Arrma Fazon Voltage had a similar problem because my nephew moved the throttle trim and then it was acting all weird until I reset it.
The manual for it states the factory positions on the tx. But sure, I'll give that a go and see what happens
 
The title of the post is "diffs sticking." I assumed that you meant when you rolled the car by hand you could feel it binding. Or if you had the car off the ground, gave it throttle and returned to neutral, the wheels would pretty much stop rotating instead of slowing gradually to a stop. But as a reread everything, it sounds like when you hit the throttle from a dead stop, sometimes the truck will not go forward at all and other times it will. If that is indeed the case, it has nothing to do with your diffs sticking. It is your BLX100 which needs to be replaced.
Oh! My bad. So it seems to be two separate issues I've identified at this point, the front and rear diffs both seem to have a point where they "stick," yet they will break lose with little effort, but I don't think that's a big issue, just considering it more, it's likely the esc, explaining what's happening would be slightly difficult, but what seems to be happening, it drives like the diffs are not grabbing. I might try to post a video sometime tommorow that would explain this a little easier
 
Oh! My bad. So it seems to be two separate issues I've identified at this point, the front and rear diffs both seem to have a point where they "stick," yet they will break lose with little effort, but I don't think that's a big issue, just considering it more, it's likely the esc, explaining what's happening would be slightly difficult, but what seems to be happening, it drives like the diffs are not grabbing. I might try to post a video sometime tommorow that would explain this a little easier

I bet you dollars to donuts (pardon the old people expression!) that it's the ESC cogging.
 
Got a video. So it seemed to work normally for about 3-5 or so minutes, then started acting up... oh whale

 
That's cogging. Did you ever submit warranty on your ESC? If not, you should. That's not going to fix itself.
Yes I had already had called about it, got it under warranty and talked my way into getting their top offer to send me, which is a dynamite fuze 130a, I suppose which is made for 1/8 scale trucks. What are your thoughts on that esc?

Also, this esc is really wack, it will have problem after problem, but seems to start working again if I let it sit. I don't like the blx100 lol
 
Yes I had already had called about it, got it under warranty and talked my way into getting their top offer to send me, which is a dynamite fuze 130a, I suppose which is made for 1/8 scale trucks. What are your thoughts on that esc?

Also, this esc is really wack, it will have problem after problem, but seems to start working again if I let it sit. I don't like the blx100 lol

I don't know anything about that ESC. I think it's what comes stock in the Losi Rock Rey.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top