Senton Senton 3s How big of a deal is the C rating for these cars?

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stevin

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Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
Just ordered a pair of 3s sentons for me and my 8yr old son. This will be his first RC but he is smart and understands he will need to control and not just jam the controls. I actually let him drive my notorious 6s and even my 1/5 scale baja only for a sec! lol anyway im shopping for batteries and wondering how much the C rating really matters with land RC. Iknow in my helis the C rating is a big deal but I have used packs that can hardly fly my helis but kick ass in my truck. so can I realistically get good power with say a 25c 3s turnigy pack?
 
In my opinion probably not . 45C+ is what you need. you don't need 100C though. And 4000mah at minimum would allow for some fun time and consistent punch from most of that run time.
 
C rating is a big deal. To low and the batteries could burn up in your Senton. Better to go higher than recommended than lower than recommended. It will say in the manual what the minimum C rating is for the truck.
 
Rotor/propeller load is more consistantly continuous than surface vehicle load so I would expect the results you notice, but too low a (c) rating will catch up to you. I would stay at the minimum recommend rating at the least, and a bit above is even better. No need to risk a bonfire.
 
Stay away from bias lipos... I had a pair of 3s 5000mah 50c packs that puffed up a great deal and were super hot on first run in one of my boats. My 50c venoms got warm but handled the draw much better than the “50c” bias packs.
 
In my opinion 25c is too low for the Senton 3S. (4x4 surface vehicle) Bear in mind C ratings with lipos is not a regulated industry spec. Manufacturers true C ratings are driven by marketting. And in general, your mAH capacity in addition to its respective c discharge rate will determine if that battery is appropriate for the gross amp draw. Name brand lipo packs tend to be closer to actual advertised specs. I've seen budget 100C packs that were more equivelent to name brand 50c rate packs, with both having the same mAH capacity. You pay alot more for higher ratings too. The Lipo batterry industry is a dark industry.that is not uniform in testing and matching cells. And it is hard to compare brand A specs with brand B's. I would use spec ratings to compare packs within the Brand's offerings. I would not run less than 45c in the Senton 3S.
 
Running the wrong c rating will get you here. I wouldn't recommend it at all. Stay with either what the manufacturer recommends or above. Learned my lesson the hard way.
 

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Running the wrong c rating will get you here. I wouldn't recommend it at all. Stay with either what the manufacturer recommends or above. Learned my lesson the hard way.
That is unfortunate :cry: Stick with higher rated batteries.
 
Running the wrong c rating will get you here. I wouldn't recommend it at all. Stay with either what the manufacturer recommends or above. Learned my lesson the hard way.
Keep in mind, you only had the vehicle for 4 days when it burnt down. Definitely an esc defect if it went up in flames. A capacitor failure is a peaceful death, basically like a fuse breaking, aka nothing happens, just no power (as long as you're super unlucky, and the capacitor's electrolyte decides to perfectly short out the board in a place where it'd cause a fire). Of course, it is not smart at all to go below the manufacturers c rating and that said no disrespect in your direction.

For the newcomers, realize ESC's use capacitors to stabilize the voltage. In a nutshell, it makes the esc last very long. Having a battery below the c rating will cause the battery to not be able to supply the motor with enough current to "go" when you tell it to. To compensate, the esc's capacitors will have to work overtime, causing them to wear out faster, causing the esc to fail somewhat quicker. Now, it'll take a few months if not years (depending on the quality of your speed control) for it to make a difference as long as you're using a decent pack (meaning 25c and above) for the esc to die. Also, you'll have reduced performance and such. Just not fun. Everything will run hotter, etc. RUN THE RIGHT C!

The reason I mentioned "decent packs" is because I want people to know that if you tried to run like a 15c or something horrible it'll kill the esc within a few weeks.
 
I've seen newcomers buying quad lipos because they are cheaper in price. And don't yet understand lipo specs and the amp draw that surface vehicles can demand. And quad copter lipos are generally low Cs. I've also seen quad guys get into surface RC for the first time and feel they can use their 4s low C quad lipos. These scenarios can spell distaster. You can use low C batts in a brushed Crawler to some extent because of weight and position constraints, but not in MT"S or other high power, heavy and fast tall geared rigs. In my Notorious/Outcast manual, page 27 states 35C 5000mAH minimum on a 3s, 4s or 6s is required. This is for the BLX brushless ESC models. I've been using 45-60 C lipos of 5000-7000 mAH capacities for what it's worth. Mostly gensacearespammers. They perform the best for me. There is no industry standard that requires a mfr. to be accurate in their C ratings from brand to brand. I only compare a C rating within a certain brand. Brand A' s C is very likely not going to match Brand B's rating even though both will claim identical numbers. This is for marketing reasons. They are allowed to do this. But in general, the higher the C, the more money it will cost within that Brand.
 
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I find lowering the punch setting can minimize peak amp draw. Watch your drag brake settings also. This can be used as a tool to accommodate a possibly low C operation/event that continually occurs. Gearing down goes along with this. Warm batteries is a beginning sign you are approaching the C rating. I feel that in general lipos should not get hot if you have an efficient setup including the batts.
 
Keep in mind, you only had the vehicle for 4 days when it burnt down. Definitely an esc defect if it went up in flames. A capacitor failure is a peaceful death, basically like a fuse breaking, aka nothing happens, just no power (as long as you're super unlucky, and the capacitor's electrolyte decides to perfectly short out the board in a place where it'd cause a fire). Of course, it is not smart at all to go below the manufacturers c rating and that said no disrespect in your direction.

For the newcomers, realize ESC's use capacitors to stabilize the voltage. In a nutshell, it makes the esc last very long. Having a battery below the c rating will cause the battery to not be able to supply the motor with enough current to "go" when you tell it to. To compensate, the esc's capacitors will have to work overtime, causing them to wear out faster, causing the esc to fail somewhat quicker. Now, it'll take a few months if not years (depending on the quality of your speed control) for it to make a difference as long as you're using a decent pack (meaning 25c and above) for the esc to die. Also, you'll have reduced performance and such. Just not fun. Everything will run hotter, etc. RUN THE RIGHT C!

The reason I mentioned "decent packs" is because I want people to know that if you tried to run like a 15c or something horrible it'll kill the esc within a few weeks.
Wasn't an ESC defect in my case. Was the wrong c rating batteries I used. I was able to save my rig with minimal damage other than the body. Replaced the battery tray, connectors and the cage, still using the same ESC for over a year now with no problems. Not saying a bad ESC wouldn't do this but wasn't the case in my situation here. Car ran great for about 10 minutes then just stopped dead in its tracks and poof, instant fireball...... Lol
 
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