Senton Senton 3S Stock spur gear situation - What should I buy?

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mikeshandssay

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
  2. Senton 6s
So I put in a Robinson Racing MOD 0.8 23T gear. The stock pinion had to be drilled out cause the set screw stripped(Thanks Arrma for using so much Loctite). This left a divot in the motor shaft so now the set screw wants to be in this divot. This mis-aligns the pinon and spur so only about 80% of the pinion is touching the spur.

I know I should get a new motor - but buying a new spur gear just seems way cheaper.

What should I do about this spur gear? Upgrade to metal since they don't overlap 100%? Use the stock and just slowly chew them up?

I want to get a Hobbywing Xerun XR8 SCT Brushless ESC/3660SD G2 Motor Combo (3200kV) but they are like $180

This motor would be a direct fit right?
 
THIS! I was thinking about it. The Divot is so small.. don't think it would crumble?

Shouldn't if you use the right amount of hardener and give it a full 24 hrs or more to fully cure. If it doesn't work, nothing lost right? Then you can try another more expensive solution haha

And let me know if it does work because I might very well need to try this soon myself. I need to pull my pinion to swap to a 13T...if the part ever arrives ?

Also, if the divot is really small, it might be worth drilling out a little more so you get a good bond. And make sure you rough up the surface well before applying...Good luck! ?
 
True. Good point. I'll take a wack at it. I don't have jbweld. I have blue magic steel epoxy. It says it can be tapper and machined so I'm hopeful!
 
We'll see in 24 hours!
 

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For the case it wont work... just so you know, the metal spur is much thinner than the plastic one, so it might actually overlap ok... but still, i would just stick to the plastic ones. they are so cheap and quiet.
 
For the case it wont work... just so you know, the metal spur is much thinner than the plastic one, so it might actually overlap ok... but still, i would just stick to the plastic ones. they are so cheap and quiet.
Fair enough. Do we know the part number/assembly needed?


So the cure time on the package said one hour. I waited like 5 then gently filed it down.

It came out looking great! Will report if it just crumbles when I put the pressure of the set screw on it.
 

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Fair enough. Do we know the part number/assembly needed?


So the cure time on the package said one hour. I waited like 5 then gently filed it down.

It came out looking great! Will report if it just crumbles when I put the pressure of the set screw on it.

Just the spur gear - ARA310947
Spur gear assembly - ?? Cant seem to find it at the moment...thought I had it but it was wrong # ...I'll keep looking...
 
Last edited:
Just the spur gear - ARA310947
Spur gear assembly - ?? Cant seem to find it at the moment...thought I had it but it was wrong # ...I'll keep looking...
Thanks man. Gonna get 1 as a backup for when something explodes.
 
Ok, so I think the spur gear assembly part # is ARA310949. Says on Ebay it is for 3S and 4S models.
 

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Ok, so I think the spur gear assembly part # is ARA310949. Says on Ebay it is for 3S and 4S models.

Nailed it!

There was a lot of fine black powder built up around the motor shaft and case. Could this be the slipper slipping? I don't bash much... actually doing speed runs on 2S to fine tune this damn alignment!
 
Nailed it!

There was a lot of fine black powder built up around the motor shaft and case. Could this be the slipper slipping? I don't bash much... actually doing speed runs on 2S to fine tune this damn alignment!

Could be the slipper clutch isn't adjusted properly. I've had my truck almost a week now and haven't experienced that, but what I do know is that my slipper clutch was WAY to tight from the factory. It is supposed to be 1.5 turns (540°) back from full tight and mine was just at full tight from factory.

My alignment was way off too. Caster and camber both all over the place. Not a huge deal for me as I'm a basher through and through (for the time being...thinking about building a racing rig though ?), but if your looking at doing speed runs have you considered changing the steering components to aluminum parts ? There is a lot of slop (intentionally) built into the steering components on these trucks as they are largely intended as bashers. I'd look at Hot Racing if you are looking to switch to aluminum parts. Seems they come highly recommended on here from the folks with experience ?‍♂️
 
Could be the slipper clutch isn't adjusted properly. I've had my truck almost a week now and haven't experienced that, but what I do know is that my slipper clutch was WAY to tight from the factory. It is supposed to be 1.5 turns (540°) back from full tight and mine was just at full tight from factory.

My alignment was way off too. Caster and camber both all over the place. Not a huge deal for me as I'm a basher through and through (for the time being...thinking about building a racing rig though ?), but if your looking at doing speed runs have you considered changing the steering components to aluminum parts ? There is a lot of slop (intentionally) built into the steering components on these trucks as they are largely intended as bashers. I'd look at Hot Racing if you are looking to switch to aluminum parts. Seems they come highly recommended on here from the folks with experience ?‍♂️

Yes I already have metal steering components with metal pivot balls.

Hrmm, I'll take a look at my slipper then.
Good news! After 4 packs it's quieter and the metal epoxy seems to be working great. Fingers crossed.
 
Yes I already have metal steering components with metal pivot balls.

Hrmm, I'll take a look at my slipper then.
Good news! After 4 packs it's quieter and the metal epoxy seems to be working great. Fingers crossed.

Right on! Did the aluminum parts make quite a difference as far as the handling of the truck? I'm considering upgrading myself...

Glad to hear the fix is working out!?
 
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