Senton Senton 4x4 Mega : Journey from stock breakages to brushless and beyond.

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@Photoman,

We do some runs across grass on a school oval, but its not that long.

I am mindful of the spur gear , so doing my best to teach my son to be a little more mechanically sympathetic re throttle inputs, etc, but an 11 year old pretty much only knows 2 speeds, stop , flat out and the quickest point between the 2.

Whats all this easing the throttle in you are on about dad ?
 
I was afraid of breaking parts on my granite when I first got it. Left it stock for a long time then realized the brushed motor couldn't hurt it. So moved up to 3650 can 2700kv on 2s and loved it, still wasn't fast enough though. Bashed it hard with that setup and nothing broke. Moved up to 3660 motor 3200kv on 3s battery and 27t pinion witch I have about 3hrs run time on!!
The truck is hulling ass and I gave up on taking it easy on it. There's a construction site by my house that I run it at and it's got it all, jumps, mud, flat runs and big gravel piles. Starting to feel like the luckiest arrma owner ever. But because I sad that I'll probably brake the diff input shaft tomorrow...lol
 
Hi All,

O.K so this is another one of those noob questions, so bare with me.

When I first installed the brushless combo , the Lipo hadn't arrived in time so I did the initial testing on the NIMH battery, which performed as expected. Have now run the car twice on the Lipo , good 25-30 minute run time each time. Today after the Lipo run, and after a short cool down ( motor was still very cool after the Lipo run ) , we thought we would flip in the NIMH to give us another 15 minutes or so, but on the NIMH the car barely moved. Battery was fully charged , so at a bit of a loss why unless there was still some cut out in place ?

Quickly charged the Lipo back to about 50% just to to check truck was still running O.K, which it was. Truck will be parked for about a week now, so will leave the Lipo at that 50% charge and stored.

The GoolRC ESC doesn't not have any switching between Lipo/NIMH , program card still hasn't arrived, so was I naive in thinking I could run the NIMH after the Lipo without needing to program the ESC.

Is there an explanation why it ran so well on first test run with the NIMH ?
 
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Funny am putting together one for my brother-in-law today and have same issue. So pretty sure you answered our question ,Tomorrow I will pull my esc wire and plug it into my program card and see.. Just took some pics .Prawn says 0V on the card should work for NIMH batteries . Its in the cut off line ,
IMG_20180624_201908895.jpg
IMG_20180624_202010360.jpg
 
@KMS,

Cool, let me know how you go.

Still strange it ran fine under NIHM the first run at my end. Its only after the 2S run it didn't want a bar of the NIMH.

To be honest after seeing how the car performs under Lipo 2S , I am not going to be too fussed about using the NIMH battery if I am having to alter a cut off which could effect the running under Lipo.

I'll keep the NIMH's around the bench when doing maintenance , adjustments, etc.

On another note, I am finding the rear fan on the motor is getting clogged easily with debris, so weighing up the best option to minimise that.

Found these Dust Proof Grills which should work. so cheap, but 10 of them just to have a few spares.

Also would love to find a way to minimise debris/rocks getting in between the Servo steering horn, chassis. Can't say the ( upside down mounting of the Servo) design with the horn being so close to bottom of chassis was the wisest.

Apart from those minor niggles, truck has been belted for 3 x Lipo charges since the brushless install , and is holding up well.

Thank you again for the recommendation of the GoolRC Combo, working a treat.
 
My program card had no instructions,, So I had to explore a little . Mine push program button then arrow over to setting you want , after that arrow down to next setting , keep doing that until all settings are set them push program button last. It worked great and cruses using the 7 cell NIMH battery..
 
@KMS,

Thanks for the heads up re the programmer.

So what setting did you use to sort the NIMH , and will it allow to run both NIMH and Lipo ?

Or are you running just NMIH ?
 
Set it on zero. Don't think it would go both, I set it to NIMH and it tamed it down a bunch. It's my brother-in-law's
mega so until he gets his driving skills back keep it NIMH ,,
 
O.K, Cool.

Without it being easily selectable I'll give the NIMH, I'll have them around the bench when doing some basic maintenance/testing fans, etc, but i wont bother using them for the runs.

Programmer should arrive this week, I might have a poke at some of the other settings , but for now happy to just run as is.
 
I just got mine in the mail today with no instructions.
Where/how do you plug it in? YouTube and google was failing me tonight.
 
@Svein,

You plug it into the connection from the ESC, which you will need to remove from the receiver.

Mine arrived today as well, no instruction as well.

@KMS, did you manage to find any info / instructions / guides ?
 
I did add a heat sink fan to the motor , Temps are good with a 17 tooth pinion speed might be too much for son ,14 tooth better might try the smallest one that will fit in the predrilled holes ..not sure what one that is ,,motor temps will be good and run time will be better,,View attachment 19169 View attachment 19170

Ironically I laid my note the exact same way. Water temperatures are just fine. Actually left the 17 tooth pinion in it.
 
Quick question for all who have experience with LIPO ( and the GoolRC combo if applicable )

What % of charge should you run the LIPO down to before the ESC cuts off , as I notice that the charger is reading around 02% when I place the battery back on to charge for storage after each run , which I then bring back up to 50-60%. 02% seems very low from what I have read about safe levels to discharge LIPO batteries to ?

I am running the GoolRC as supplied, but as I noted previously, first running it on NIHM and then LIPO ( the NIMH stopped running the car correctly after the first LIPO run ).

I do have the programming card to set the LVC if need be, highest available is 3.1V ( which I believe is default ) . I haven't connected the programming card yet, but will do so to check all settings on weekend.

P.S - I changed the title of the thread to better reflect the journey from the original stock breakages to modded.
 
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When I had my GoolRC ESC, that was one of my complaints - the LVC is really a bit too low. If you battery is in good shape, and finishes the run still nicely balanced, it will probably never be an issue. But if you have a pack with a weak cell, it could easily get pulled below 3.0v before the LVC kicks in.

An easy "fix" would be to run a cheap lipo alarm in the truck. When you hear it beep, bring it on in...
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-lipoly-low-voltage-alarm-2s-4s.html
 
@Jerry-rigged ,

Thanks for the reply.

Whats confusing me is the battery charger reporting such a low % when I first reconnect the battery.

So is it in fact running down to 3.1V ?

Battery is new, solid case and balance is spot on after each run.

LIPO alarm is a good idea, managed to source one identical to this locally.

I'll set it to 3.3V
 
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