Senton Senton 4x4 Mega : Journey from stock breakages to brushless and beyond.
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Curvin
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- Thread starter
- #122
I'll be experimenting with some 12mm Hex's today.
I bought some cheaper Slash standard size aluminum units from Fleabay to experiment with. Hole sizes are obviously wrong, being 4/5mm , which need to be drilled to 5/6mm to suit the Senton, which may delete the small raised ridge on the back. I'll pop up some shots if I manage to wrangle them on.
Fallback are the hex's Bicketybam used, but they are over $40.00-$50.00 landed , the test hex's were 2 sets for $10.00 , so not fussed if they don't work out, but if they do, bonus.
i have read the Losi Hex's might work as well and are about $6.00-$10.00US for a set of 4 @ Horizon Hobby , depending which sets you grab.
Stay tuned.
I bought some cheaper Slash standard size aluminum units from Fleabay to experiment with. Hole sizes are obviously wrong, being 4/5mm , which need to be drilled to 5/6mm to suit the Senton, which may delete the small raised ridge on the back. I'll pop up some shots if I manage to wrangle them on.
Fallback are the hex's Bicketybam used, but they are over $40.00-$50.00 landed , the test hex's were 2 sets for $10.00 , so not fussed if they don't work out, but if they do, bonus.
i have read the Losi Hex's might work as well and are about $6.00-$10.00US for a set of 4 @ Horizon Hobby , depending which sets you grab.
Stay tuned.
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Curvin
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- #125
Modded 12mm Hex's installed.
A few wheel/tyre options - Proline Badlands on Renegade Rims - 9mm Offset ( Slash 4x4 ) Similar offset to standard: AKA Impact on JConcept Hazard Rims - 3mm Offset , which will be run on the Hunter , but I have a spare set that can be used on the Senton as well if offset suits.
Close up of the modded Hex - 5 mm front hole, 6 mm rear about 5mm deep , raised ridge survived, pin slot enlarged to suit the thicker pins on the Senton. Not ideal but not fussed as the pin is captured when wheel is mounted
Proline Badlands mounted , offset has the tyres a hair inside the fender arch , so as close to perfect as you can get.
JConcept/AKA mounted, offset has the tyres inset and clearing the fender arch's easily , I'll most likely not run them on the truck, just wanted to do a test fit.
Long story short, yes the standard cheaper hex's can work with a bit of modding.
Now I have to figure out why one of the outside hub bearings on one of the front axles was moving out too far after I popped the 14mm hex off.
The schematic doesn't show anything capturing the axle from the rear ?
PS - Yes the Hunter hiding in the back has its front diff out , nothing major, pinion gear out drive chewed the slot, seems common on metal driveshaft/outdrive setups. Pinion was fine, all metal pinion , diff gears as well. Replacement outdrive was a massive $1.40AU , I bought a few spares
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Curvin
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- #127
Spur gears arrived.
Thank you to Ed ( bicketybam) for his kindness and generosity sorting these for me and shipping them from the US.
The local supply is still in limbo, and will be for at least another month , minimum.
Now to reassemble the truck driveline and get some run time
Thank you to Ed ( bicketybam) for his kindness and generosity sorting these for me and shipping them from the US.
The local supply is still in limbo, and will be for at least another month , minimum.
Now to reassemble the truck driveline and get some run time
Curvin
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- #128
And here we go again !
Truck couldn't even manage 5-10 minute run time before it broke again, running across a school oval, low cut grass, gravel. Prior to the axle snapping we did loose a wheel when a wheel nut worked loose, despite me checking them prior to running.
Truck was noticeably more lethargic on the runs, didn't seem anywhere near as fast as it was prior to repair ? We ran the Hunter battery down to 3.3V , swapped a nut over to the Senton to finish up a battery pack , and no more than 3 minutes later, this was the result.
To add insult to injury, the axle is jammed in the drive shaft, which I have slightly damaged attempting to get it out.
Any tips to get it out will be welcome.
Parts are out of stock till end of September earliest , and I may need to also get the drive shafts.
Seriously, I am so over this truck , I'll be swapping back the 14mm standard hex's, wheels, tyres , and once repaired will most likely sell it on , this has been a running battle from day one, no matter how much money I throw at this thing, it really is akin to polishing a turd.
Truck couldn't even manage 5-10 minute run time before it broke again, running across a school oval, low cut grass, gravel. Prior to the axle snapping we did loose a wheel when a wheel nut worked loose, despite me checking them prior to running.
Truck was noticeably more lethargic on the runs, didn't seem anywhere near as fast as it was prior to repair ? We ran the Hunter battery down to 3.3V , swapped a nut over to the Senton to finish up a battery pack , and no more than 3 minutes later, this was the result.
To add insult to injury, the axle is jammed in the drive shaft, which I have slightly damaged attempting to get it out.
Any tips to get it out will be welcome.
Parts are out of stock till end of September earliest , and I may need to also get the drive shafts.
Seriously, I am so over this truck , I'll be swapping back the 14mm standard hex's, wheels, tyres , and once repaired will most likely sell it on , this has been a running battle from day one, no matter how much money I throw at this thing, it really is akin to polishing a turd.
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larrys4227
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Sorry to hear about all the problems ... FWIW, I've had great success with both MEGA trucks. The axle shafts are very soft metal. I've broke one shaft, and felt it was my fault due to overtightening. I also use serated lock nuts.
bicketybam
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There is a screw that holds the wheel axle in to the driveshaft. Once that is loosened it should pull right out.
bicketybam
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It had me stumped the first time I had to remove one. They use the same type of set up to hold the driveshafts to the differential.
Curvin
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- #133
Thanks Ed, Larry,
I got the axle screw out , finally. It was super tight, luckily I have a decent hex tool that didn't strip the screw.
Took all of my strength to get it, ( I think I'll be getting a blister ) but at least its out and I have repaired the driveshaft so the bearing goes over again
I have ordered some serrated nuts , with nyloc's, which I'll replace all the nuts across both trucks with.
I may have over tightened it, but the nuts weren't staying in place, so its a 2 edged sword. Either way, its going to be another , at least 4 week waiting game for the axle parts to be back in stock, if in fact they are restocked on that first run.
I'm still strong in the mindset to just dial the Senton back to stock and sell it on when I finally get the parts, I still have the ESC, the brushed motors are in stock, I need to repair one stock shock , flip a cheaper servo in and keep the Power HD/Glitch Buster as a spare.
What ever caused the power/speed drop off today has me concerned that I will just be continually chasing a ghost with this truck, and its not like it was taking a beating, it was doing some runs across an oval, no jumps, a few flips. The speed reminded me of the brushed motor on a sagging NIMH charge , thats how much it dropped off.
I got the axle screw out , finally. It was super tight, luckily I have a decent hex tool that didn't strip the screw.
Took all of my strength to get it, ( I think I'll be getting a blister ) but at least its out and I have repaired the driveshaft so the bearing goes over again
I have ordered some serrated nuts , with nyloc's, which I'll replace all the nuts across both trucks with.
I may have over tightened it, but the nuts weren't staying in place, so its a 2 edged sword. Either way, its going to be another , at least 4 week waiting game for the axle parts to be back in stock, if in fact they are restocked on that first run.
I'm still strong in the mindset to just dial the Senton back to stock and sell it on when I finally get the parts, I still have the ESC, the brushed motors are in stock, I need to repair one stock shock , flip a cheaper servo in and keep the Power HD/Glitch Buster as a spare.
What ever caused the power/speed drop off today has me concerned that I will just be continually chasing a ghost with this truck, and its not like it was taking a beating, it was doing some runs across an oval, no jumps, a few flips. The speed reminded me of the brushed motor on a sagging NIMH charge , thats how much it dropped off.
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larrys4227
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Yeah, the one axle shaft i broke was one that I gave extra elbow grease to, because the nut was backing off while running. I got a bag of Traxxas nuts with the serrated seat ... Haven't had a problem since.
ptr1ck
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Curvin, if the axle was binding enough to break, then that may be what cause it to run slower. Make sure all the wheels spin freely before each run.
Also, I use blue loctite on all wheel nuts even if they are serrated with nylon locks.
Also, I use blue loctite on all wheel nuts even if they are serrated with nylon locks.
Curvin
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- #136
@ptr1ck ,
That was my thinking also, after I calmed down a bit, LOL.
I think the modded Hex's were not clearing completely.
Blue Loctite is a good idea, I use that on other metal/metal screw connections , just not the wheels nuts.
Need to sort the axles and then decide the next move, my son is not overly happy with me wanting to sell the truck , but after he drove the Hunter yesterday after the Senton broke, and experienced the difference first hand , he is closer to the edge.
That was my thinking also, after I calmed down a bit, LOL.
I think the modded Hex's were not clearing completely.
Blue Loctite is a good idea, I use that on other metal/metal screw connections , just not the wheels nuts.
Need to sort the axles and then decide the next move, my son is not overly happy with me wanting to sell the truck , but after he drove the Hunter yesterday after the Senton broke, and experienced the difference first hand , he is closer to the edge.
Curvin
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- #137
Just to give you an idea of what non US residents are navigating at the moment getting ARRMA spare parts.
Amazon will not ship to Australia any more, so that option is gone with all the vendors trading through there, so I went directly to the source, Horizon Hobby, who pinged my I.P and boldly stated cheap/fast freight to Australia , O.K, me thinks, lets give it a go.
Surely they are taking the piss , LOL !!
The situation with ARRMA for non US residents is really at a critical point , I couldnt with a clear conscience recomend anyone buy an ARRMA product at present, and yes , the situation should improve once the dust settles, maybe, hopefully.
A 2nd DHK Hunter DL is looking very tempting atm...
Amazon will not ship to Australia any more, so that option is gone with all the vendors trading through there, so I went directly to the source, Horizon Hobby, who pinged my I.P and boldly stated cheap/fast freight to Australia , O.K, me thinks, lets give it a go.
Surely they are taking the piss , LOL !!
The situation with ARRMA for non US residents is really at a critical point , I couldnt with a clear conscience recomend anyone buy an ARRMA product at present, and yes , the situation should improve once the dust settles, maybe, hopefully.
A 2nd DHK Hunter DL is looking very tempting atm...
Curvin
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- #138
On a side note.
Servo's, I have never been 100% with the Power HD 20KG unit I installed, latency is noticeably higher than the standard, and I don't think I am getting the full travel lock to lock, even with the dual rate would all the way. I also am in 2 minds needing the glitch buster just to run it. Spec wise I have since discovered its more suited to crawlers , which would explain the latency.
So question, what are you guys using , hows the latency, and did you get the full travel lock to lock easily without having to wind the dual rate almost to 100% ?
Servo's, I have never been 100% with the Power HD 20KG unit I installed, latency is noticeably higher than the standard, and I don't think I am getting the full travel lock to lock, even with the dual rate would all the way. I also am in 2 minds needing the glitch buster just to run it. Spec wise I have since discovered its more suited to crawlers , which would explain the latency.
So question, what are you guys using , hows the latency, and did you get the full travel lock to lock easily without having to wind the dual rate almost to 100% ?
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Curvin
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- #140
Cool, thanks for the heads up.
Works out about the same price landed ( $50.00 ) from the UK as my 20KG Power HD locally.
I take it you are working without an additional Glitch Buster ?
Works out about the same price landed ( $50.00 ) from the UK as my 20KG Power HD locally.
I take it you are working without an additional Glitch Buster ?
