Senton Senton blx gear grease and maintenance

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Olred1998

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
If this has been covered in detail please direct me to the discussion.

I'm a bit of a maintenance freak on stuff. I am a fairly good shade tree mechanic but have been out of the rc game for 15 years or so. Anyways..... got a senton 3s very slightly($100 with a 3s 5000mah and charger) used so I could ride with my son after xmas. I just did hr shock bodies and 5wt oil. Planned on swapping diff oil to maybe 30k. What other lubes should I be using and where? What kind of regular maintenance or tricks should be done? How do yall think this will run? Already planning on a set of fast eddy bearings cause we will bash in dirt and grass.
 
Hey bud. Nice build.

Is that a typo on the shock oil weight? 5wt is pretty light. Like, way too light. If you meant 50wt that’s where I’m at and it’s nice for general purpose bashing.

Diffs for me is a feel thing. You can start with 30/30 (stock is 10/10 unless you bought that used and the previous owner modified.) I ended up at 32.5/15 front rear for my bashing Typhon and 15/10 for my track.

Swapping in sealed bearings is a huge upgrade when it comes to preventative maintenance. The stock bearings are headaches waiting to happen. You should regularly check everything is torqued properly. Make sure you blow it clean and dry whenever it gets wet - the stock bolts and screws rust very quickly, as does the motor pinion. If you run somewhere very dirty, make sure you always remove the motor module and clean - crap gets in there ALL the time.

Rest is pretty easy. Check proper pivoting because the stock plastic balls will eventually wear out. Check the wheel nuts before a run so you don’t lose a wheel or two.

Have fun.
 
Ya sorry brother I put in 50wt. The guy I got it from literally ran 3 battery cycles through it( mostly on road)and blew a tire so it's all stock and clean.But for the diff..... I have looked at the generic chart that talks about weight and handling. Can yall clarify in more simple terms. Just a simple marine and redneck here. Lol

And by motor module are you talking about the pinion and spur gears? On that what's the best way to keep that cleanish?! Also the pivot balls are something else I was looking into. What's the benefit of metal?

New can of worms. What about the steering? Lots of play and when my servo goes what's a good budget option?
What about greasing the outside of the diff?
 

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Use some silicone grease on the outside of the diff cup to line the diff pinion and spur. Just enough to coat the teeth is fine. I use automotive brake grease in mine. Don’t grease the motor pinion and spur tho, just the diffs.

New servo will be needed. Any 25kg servo from Amazon will be fine.

Get some rubber sealed bearings from Fast Eddy’s. The stock ones won’t last long. Don’t forget to get the 4 replacements for the steering rack bushings.

30k in the diffs will be fine if you aren’t racing on a track. Good weight for bashing tho. If you are racing, then it will be a little stiff in turns.

While you have it apart doing bearings, make sure to go over every screw and make sure they are tight.

Enjoy
 
Thanks for the help yall. Is the steering rack bearings included in the Eddie's kit? Any ideas about the spur gear. I see where people vent underneath it and some try and block off the cracks.
 
Thanks for the help yall. Is the steering rack bearings included in the Eddie's kit? Any ideas about the spur gear. I see where people vent underneath it and some try and block off the cracks.
I’ve never received the steering bearings in a FE kit, but he does sell them separately.

As far as the power module, I’ve never had issues there. But a lot of people have problems in sandy terrain. I don’t have much sand to run in tho.
 
RC cars don't need a lot of maintenance, more important to make sure your Lipo batteries are set to storage charge (not fully charged, not drained) when not in use. Other than that, check your bearings frequently to make sure they spin smoothly and none of your screws have backed out.

People think you need to grease or lube this or that, but honestly you really don't. There's not much metal to metal contact on these things that will get dry, it's the bearings that are important.
 
RC cars don't need a lot of maintenance, more important to make sure your Lipo batteries are set to storage charge (not fully charged, not drained) when not in use. Other than that, check your bearings frequently to make sure they spin smoothly and none of your screws have backed out.

People think you need to grease or lube this or that, but honestly you really don't. There's not much metal to metal contact on these things that will get dry, it's the bearings that are important.

How long can lipos stay fully charged and remain safe? Like can i charge them and prepare them for the weekend or should i charge just before the bash?
 
Thanks razor. Somewhat what I was thinking but didnt think a lil extra love would hurt lol. I've watched a bunch of your stuff and appreciate the advice. But I'm also interested in the full charge time line
 
How long can lipos stay fully charged and remain safe? Like can i charge them and prepare them for the weekend or should i charge just before the bash?
The lipo themselves are only hurt when left discharged. Leaving them charged is a safety issue as they have much more potential for bad sh!t happening. With a storage charge, they are much less volatile. That’s why people storage charge them. If you have a safety plan to account for a full lipo, then do it your way. Just know that it isn’t going to hurt the lipo per se.
 
I believe leaving lithium-ion batteries fully charged degrades them. IMO, this is all types, whether talking about cell phones, Teslas, or laptops, or RC batteries. This is based on what I've read, what I've experienced, and what I've seen seeing how other people charge their batteries.

They don't go from "good" to "bad" overnight, but batteries seem to last the longest if they spend most of their lives at storage voltage, and only briefly are at full charge or discharged. I don't have scientific evidence of this, but you could research this more.
 
I believe leaving lithium-ion batteries fully charged degrades them. IMO, this is all types, whether talking about cell phones, Teslas, or laptops, or RC batteries. This is based on what I've read, what I've experienced, and what I've seen seeing how other people charge their batteries.

They don't go from "good" to "bad" overnight, but batteries seem to last the longest if they spend most of their lives at storage voltage, and only briefly are at full charge or discharged. I don't have scientific evidence of this, but you could research this more.
I know it’s anecdotal but a few guys here leave their packs fully charged and they have lasted quite a long time. I think it is more a safety issue than anything.
 
Did I get a factory defect or...... Jim's bearings
 

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That came with the Jim's kit and only one of them. Havnt opened the front diff yet but havnt seen anything like that on the truck so far. Where would it go?
 
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