Senton Diff Help Please

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
  2. Typhon 6s
Filling/checking diff question...any tip on getting the 2mm screw out attaching the driveshaft to the diff ? Do I have to take these off to open up the diff etc. ? I haven't striped it just can tell it's pretty tight and looking to see any tips out there to make this easier ?
 

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Filling/checking diff question...any tip on getting the 2mm screw out attaching the driveshaft to the diff ? Do I have to take these off to open up the diff etc. ? I haven't striped it just can tell it's pretty tight and looking to see any tips out there to make this easier ?
You need a long 2mm bit. Insert it into the hollow end of the driveshaft and remove it. The screw is captive and will stay in the driveshaft.
 
You need a long 2mm bit. Insert it into the hollow end of the driveshaft and remove it. The screw is captive and will stay in the driveshaft.


Yes, and make sure you use a quality driver or bit..

But, if all your doing is going in to check fluid and fill it, don't bother with the shafts... take out the 2 screws from the yokes, then unscrew the ring gear to cup screws, pull it apart and there you go... I only pull the shafts if and when the carrier bearings need to be replaced... (y)
 
Yes, and make sure you use a quality driver or bit..

But, if all your doing is going in to check fluid and fill it, don't bother with the shafts... take out the 2 screws from the yokes, then unscrew the ring gear to cup screws, pull it apart and there you go... I only pull the shafts if and when the carrier bearings need to be replaced... (y)
Thank you Camaroboy383...RazorRC and friends for taking the time to assist. Rear diff and reconditioned 3S shocks with new additional O-rings completed ?
 

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Filling/checking diff question...any tip on getting the 2mm screw out attaching the driveshaft to the diff ? Do I have to take these off to open up the diff etc. ? I haven't striped it just can tell it's pretty tight and looking to see any tips out there to make this easier ?
I did my first 3s dif yesterday and had to replace a bearing as well. Before I ran out to buy a new, long, 2mm driver, my impatience had me bend open the tab at the u-joint to separate them. This is how i had to do it on my old TRX, so i wasn't to concerned. If you haven't already, replace those carrier bearings. A stock one came apart on me the other day, and melted the plastic, causing the dif and pinion to be destroyed. That new driver made things go a little smoother on the other dif.
 
I did my first 3s dif yesterday and had to replace a bearing as well. Before I ran out to buy a new, long, 2mm driver, my impatience had me bend open the tab at the u-joint to separate them. This is how i had to do it on my old TRX, so i wasn't to concerned. If you haven't already, replace those carrier bearings. A stock one came apart on me the other day, and melted the plastic, causing the dif and pinion to be destroyed. That new driver made things go a little smoother on the other dif.


If your ever in that situation again, or anyone else for that matter, here is another little trick for you..

With the diff assembly out in your hand, grab one of the axles and articulate it upright to 90 degrees.. when it gets to about 60 degrees it will start to get tight against the inner yoke portion, as you continue to 90 degrees it will spread both ears of the shaft yoke evenly and only spread a small amount...

Hold the shaft with your thumb on the hand your holding the diff with.. now you can get to the screw with any length driver or even a standard allen wrench.. because the ears only spread a little bit and do it evenly which splits the distance of spread you end up with less risk of a potential popping shaft.... (y) ?
 
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