Kraton Servo stuck!

TheJoker

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Hey guys
I just cleaned and refilled the shocks with new oil..
After i put all together i turned the weels from right to left because i noticed a cable was a bit close to the servo. I just wanted to see that its no problem. But after a few times my servo got stuck...
The wheels point to the left and the servo is totally stuck!
Anything i can do about it? Or just call the store where i bought it for a warranty claim?
Tnx guys
 

Jerry-rigged

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Is this the stock ADS15M? It is pretty weak for the kraton, you may think of an upgrade...

You can pull the servo, remove the 4 screws on the bottom, and pop the top off the servo to check the gear train. Arrma will warranty the servo, but the new one probably won't last either.
 

TheJoker

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Problem is that when i removed the servo, i broke the "screwholder" on the left side because i was trying to pull a wire away wich was underneath the servo.
This is no problem at all but the shop where i bought the car is also the place in netherlands where you have to return the servo to.. and they will propably say that i crashed or something like that...wich i didnt...

How do you guys contact arrma? [email protected] or you guys go to the place where you bought the car?
 

Dreadstar

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Depending on how much you want to spend on it,I'd recommend an ACE DS 1015,rather expensive,but a very powerful MG servo. I've had one running steering duties in an 1/8th buggy for years,very reliable(15kg torque). For a cheaper alternative,I'd go for a Tower Pro MG 558(13kg torque),this is the servo that's in my Fury. If both of these servo's can handle 1/8th scale buggies and truggies,then they'll be no problem in your 1/10th.
 

TheJoker

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A kraton isnt 1/10. Its 1/8.
The standard arrma servo is 15kg but i guess its to weak
 

Dreadstar

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Either of these servo's will work in the Kraton,these were the main two servo's used by my clubs 1/8th nitro fraternity in both buggies and truggies,on a very high grip track. Another alternative is a Savox 1256,or if you really want overkill,then a Hi-Tek 8380(25kg torque). Just don't expect to be able to get either of these cheaply.
 
Last edited:

Dreadstar

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No,the 1256 isn't waterproof,but it handles wet tracks ok. You may well need a BEC as these are high power servo's, I know that the Hitec needs 7.4V,I'm not too sure about the Savox though.
 

TheJoker

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I received a mail from the arrma support...
They forwarded my mail to hobbico germany and they mailed me to say that they will send me a new servo asap!

3 hooras for the great Arrma service!!!

I defenitly stay with this great brand! Service is everything!
Every damn idiot can sell a car...that doesn't make you great...its the service you provide after someone buys a car that makes you great!
 

TheJoker

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I think a pin broke off...its very loose when i put it back in the hole.
No teeth are broken as far as i can see but when i put the servo back together it stays stuck.
20160518_131727.jpg
 

Emcgee

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Granite,
Hey guys
I just cleaned and refilled the shocks with new oil..
After i put all together i turned the weels from right to left because i noticed a cable was a bit close to the servo. I just wanted to see that its no problem. But after a few times my servo got stuck...
The wheels point to the left and the servo is totally stuck!
Anything i can do about it? Or just call the store where i bought it for a warranty claim?
Tnx guys
I sent all my electronics back for warranty. My servo did the same thing. The sent all new parts, motor esc and servo (the new version) blx 185 has more settings including punch settings. My is noticeably faster and more responsive. I run it on 6s with SRC Terrain Crushers steel belted tires no ballooning.
 

TheJoker

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Just received the new servo under warranty...
Car works again!
I changed the oils to 100k front and rear and 500k middle...
Point is that with full acceleration, the car doesn't go straight forward but is braking out much...the rear tires are getting to much power i guess...
Thinking of lowering the rear diffoil a bit...
What do you guys think?
[DOUBLEPOST=1464201428][/DOUBLEPOST]Actually i think i need to lower the 500k middle diff fluid to 300k.
 

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