Kraton Set screw on RPM arms

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Terrance

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Location
Edmonton, Alberta
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Hey everyone I bought new RPM A arms and when putting them in there is that set screw that goes into the chassis. Not sure if this is just the ones I bought or all of them in general but the hole on the RPM arms doesn't line up with the hole that the stock arms went into. Now the set screw on the RPM arms just starts pushing the chassis down. Is there an easy fix? Do these set screws need to be in there. Do I have to drill another hole? Hope someone can provide some insight for me as its kind of a piss off after finally getting my arms.
 
Pics would help. Looks like you discovered droop screws? They are there on the stock arms too. They push into the little wings on the chassis to keep your shocks from overextending when the A arms drop down.

Wait, I think I get it: The screws in your stock arms may have worn holes in your chassis. The holes aren't supposed to be there stock :)

Anyway, everything is fine. Back them out if it's easier for you to assemble everything that way but make sure you screw them back in until the shocks start to compress a bit!
 
Droop screws in RPM arms still sit on the ears of the chassis, but not quite at the same dig point when using stock arms. It shouldn't be too much of a worry but there are droop upgrades if you're interested:

You can get some double socket screws from M2C, Avid or Arrma to replace the set screws that have a wide button head that help stop digging into the chassis ears by having a larger contact patch

The M2C chassis also has ball bearing balls pressed into the chassis at both stock and RPM arm droop screw dig points to minimise wear on the chassis
 
Pics would help. Looks like you discovered droop screws? They are there on the stock arms too. They push into the little wings on the chassis to keep your shocks from overextending when the A arms drop down.

Wait, I think I get it: The screws in your stock arms may have worn holes in your chassis. The holes aren't supposed to be there stock :)

Anyway, everything is fine. Back them out if it's easier for you to assemble everything that way but make sure you screw them back in until the shocks start to compress a bit!


Awesome thanks man. I could send pics but it looks like you know whats up. Ya there is a bit of a groove in the chassis right now from where the stock arm hole was. So all I do is screw them im till they touch the chassis?? Am I understanding that correct? I appreciate the response man this forum is the best especially for an electric noob like me lol
 
Awesome thanks man. I could send pics but it looks like you know whats up. Ya there is a bit of a groove in the chassis right now from where the stock arm hole was. So all I do is screw them im till they touch the chassis?? Am I understanding that correct? I appreciate the response man this forum is the best especially for an electric noob like me lol
To set the droop, take the shocks off the bottom arms first so the arms hang free. Now screw in the droop set screws - this will begin to raise the arms up. Get the arms as level as you can. Hang the shocks in front of the arms. When the eyelets of the shock rod ends matches up with the king pin hole in the a-arm, screw the droop screws in further to raise the arms a few millimetres past the shock eyelets

This will guarantee that there will always be some compression on the shocks when the shocks are fully extended when mounted. If there isn't, you could break a shock rod end or shock piston when jumping the car. This applies for both front and rear

The idea for off road bashing is to have a lot of ground clearance. However, if you want a lower ride height, further tighten the droop screws
 
To set the droop, take the shocks off the bottom arms first so the arms hang free. Now screw in the droop set screws - this will begin to raise the arms up. Get the arms as level as you can. Hang the shocks in front of the arms. When the eyelets of the shock rod ends matches up with the king pin hole in the a-arm, screw the droop screws in further to raise the arms a few millimetres past the shock eyelets

This will guarantee that there will always be some compression on the shocks when the shocks are fully extended when mounted. If there isn't, you could break a shock rod end or shock piston when jumping the car. This applies for both front and rear

The idea for off road bashing is to have a lot of ground clearance. However, if you want a lower ride height, further tighten the droop screws

You are awesome man. Makes sense!! I really appreciate the time and also the knowledge it will def help me a lot now and in the future.

Cheers!!
 
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