Setting a granite BLS for racing

Cobi RC

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Hi, it´s been a while since my last post. This time I have a new challenge for all granite heavy users.
I have the chance to race on a local track this Sunday, I will be in general category (1/10 off road only) there´s another SC10

The track has more jumps than straight lines, it´s the only around here and was designed for buggy's, so you have to adapt to it

What would you recommend for racing settings?. Here´s what I have:
  • 5400 kv motor
  • 120a ESC
  • 37.5 oil rear shocks
  • 35 oil front shocks
  • All shocks using the inner hole on the lower arms and the same spacers (I pull out the thick ones from the rear).
  • 2.8" proline trenchers
I've tested it last Sunday and the truck performed well. Was hard for me make the granite go straight, need more traction on rear wheels. If I push the throttle the truck slides, got to be careful with that.
Another issue was jumping. Most of the jumps were with nose up, landing on rear wheels or bumper.

Hope you can give some advice.

Cobi RC
 

ajdragon

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Hi

First off ask the people that run and operate the track what tires they would recommend using, and if they have some that will fit your truck get them. You don't want to get tires that are not going to work well with there track.
 

Cobi RC

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Some people are using proline badlands for their short course trucks.
 

bogdaddyd82

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Hey bud!

I would go with some lead weight up front. Not so much forlanding jumps but more for steering. For the rear diff I would go ahead and add some oil. Possibly 50k weight for racing. I like 100k weight for general off roading. But it can hinder turning ability. I mention this because stock ,the diff comes with just a little bit of grease. That leaves the diff wide open.

As far as tires go @ajdragon is right, check with the people at the track and see what they run for rubber. And give that a try.

As for landing jumps. I have noticed. Softer rear spring rate = nose up ish. And stiffer rear spring rate = less nose up ish . That being said if the rear is too stiff it can hinder your rear traction which is super important since our trucks are rear drive. So the key here is . Fiddle and test. Play with spacers and different springs. Make one change and test. Note the results and repeat. Until you figure out what will be best all around for you and your style of driving.

I wish you luck and keepus posted
 

Cobi RC

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Wow!!!, thanks man!!. Great tips. Got some questions, how can i add some weight to the front ot the truck?. Where I can find spring options for the granite?. Don´t have 50k oil right now, have to order.
 

bogdaddyd82

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Wow!!!, thanks man!!. Great tips. Got some questions, how can i add some weight to the front ot the truck?. Where I can find spring options for the granite?. Don´t have 50k oil right now, have to order.
No problem bud. I used engine oil stop leak additive. As a quick fix until I could get some diff oil. I just went to my local car parts store and bought the thickest stuff they had. It's not a good permanent fix. But, it does help give the diff gears enough resistance so there not just wide open. I strongly recommend you give yourself plenty of time and a clean well light work area if you plan to get the rear diff out of your Arrma vehicle. There's a lot of screws and pieces. Take pictures as u go. So you have quick reference for reassembling the vehicle.
As for the springs. I forget what the length is. However you should be able to find it on this site. Just search Granite shock upgrades. They're the same springs as the fury and vorteks. You can start figuring out what way you need to go by adding and subtracting spacers in your stock shocks. For instance, you could start by taking all the spacers out and go for a test jump. See what happens. If the rig jumps nose up worse then you know you gotta go stiffer in the spring rate. Also you can use heavier shock oil. Tho with the stock shocks anything much heavier than the stock 35cst will probably send your shock caps flying.
As for adding weight to the front end. You need to get creative. To see how much weight you might want. I have used lead weighters from my fishing gear. I just stuck a few on the very front of the chassis underneath the shock mounts behind the tiny little cage piece. I used some sticky putty to temporarily hold the weights in. Then you can take off and add on as you need it. Im sure you can find videos about balancing your chassis for racing. On youtube.
 

Cobi RC

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Hi, I just tried to open the diff without success. Three of four screws were stripped. I tried using a dremel but it could damage the cover. Have you deal with this situation, how did you solve it?.

Thanks
Cobi
 

bogdaddyd82

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Hi, I just tried to open the diff without success. Three of four screws were stripped. I tried using a dremel but it could damage the cover. Have you deal with this situation, how did you solve it?.

Thanks
Cobi
Dam!
My diff came apart very smoothly. There were a lot of screws but, it all came out just fine.
I don't use regular hex wrenches. They tend to strip screws. I use star wrenches. I got mine from Home Depot. I would suggest slicing a thin notch all the way across the head of the screw and then use a flat head screwdriver to remove the screws.
Otherwise grinding them would be another option.
If you grind them you can use needle nose plires to remove the remainder of the screw.
 

MSgt

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You could try an EZout as well. You'd have to find a very small one, with a matching drill bit, but with the factory screws it should work.
 

ajdragon

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Hi

Here is something you can try, it has worked for me a couple of times. Take and clean the screw holes with carb cleaner, then let dry, then get the right size allen wrench for the screw hole. Then put super glue into the striped out screw hole and then put the allen wrench into the hole and let the glue dry around the allen wrench. Then try to remove the screw, it's usually a one shot try.
 

Cobi RC

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Wow, that´s why forums are so cool, people give you a lot of ideas, and have passed thru the same situation. I thank you all for your comments.
Here´s an update. I give up!!! I just ordered a new diff. I did my second attempt trying to open the diff without success...mmm, I did reach the diff faster than the first time and get off three of four screws but couldn´t open it. Here´s a pic.

IMG_4450.JPG
 

Cobi RC

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Hi, just an update of my "racing" granite hahaha. Last sunday was the fourth date of the championship, I ran 4 times. On the first two races finished last. On the last two I crossed the line on the second position!!. It was a lot of fun. I ran against SCT, there are two categories, SCT and "open" it´s supposed that I was on the "open" but I ended up running with the SCT.
I finally get a new diff case and fill it with 10k fluid, it makes a lot of difference than stock!!. Don´t know if 50k could be too much or not. I started running with no spacers on the shocks, I didn´t noticed that it was too low, so the granite crash against the floor after each jump. A friend of mine told me that, then I add the spacers and that could be one of the reasons I finished second on the last two races.
The track will be treated with a compound don´t know the name, but people say that it will be more compact, so we will get more traction. Let´s see what happen.

;)

Cobi RC
 

Pro4XBlizzard

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Sounds like you had fun, good stuff!! Did you end up using the Trenchers?
 

Cobi RC

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Yeah it was a lot of fun. I did use the trenchers because they are better than stock dboots.
 

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