Kraton Setup for better handling

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Xoderberg

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Arrma RC's
So if I wanted to make my Kraton setup for a better racer against my friends, what changes can I do to it.
Now I think it understeers alot!
Especially on high grip surfaces.
There's nothing wrong with it, not the servo or saver either.
Just want to know how to make it as good as it can be for some racing.
Setup as of now:
Diff fluids is front 30k, 100k middle and 50k rear. Stock fluids and springs in the shocks.
Minokawas or Backflips to choose from depending on surface.
 
I run 60/200/30k front/center/rear in my Kraton build.

Installed 60/500/60k in my senton build.
 
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First i would swop your front and rear diff. That should should improve your on power steering and makes it easier to go into a turn.
For racing i would not go up with weights, as long you don't want to take every turn in a drift. Racers ususlly use by up to ten times lighter fluids. So around 10 / 10 / 7 for a truggy
 
Not meaning to hijack, but perhaps ideas can be shared.
I’m in the same situation as the op. I primarily use my Kraton more of a race buggy than a stunt or perhaps even traditional bashing. Don’t get me wrong, my “racing” ends up more like bashing!
My friends and I like to chase each other around dirt softball fields or even the lhs track. I’m planning a tear down to add some parts and do diff maintenance. I’ve been trying to figure out what weight fluid to use in the differentials. With the stock 10k in all three it obviously bleeds more power to the front diff. I know I need to up the center diff, but by how much? Figured make all three heavier, but most guys seem to go 100-200k center and 30-60k front and center. But if you look at race truggys they are much lighter weight fluids. Not sure if it’s a difference in vehicle weight and size, seeing these Arrmas are more of a monster truck/truggy. Any info would be appreciated, and I have read the diff fluid chart, so I have an understanding of what they do, just not sure how to proceed.
 
First i would swop your front and rear diff. That should should improve your on power steering and makes it easier to go into a turn.
For racing i would not go up with weights, as long you don't want to take every turn in a drift. Racers ususlly use by up to ten times lighter fluids. So around 10 / 10 / 7 for a truggy
Well I'd rather doings drift turns instead of as it is now.
But switching diffs is an easy fix and see what happens.
What about camber, toe out and shock oil weights?
 
Try the following and test to suit your particular driving style

- Lower your front and rear diff fluid to 10k or 7500cst

- lower the vehicles center of gravity by adjusting the droop screws front and rear

- move the shocks mounting points inward on the towers

- move the plastic "c" clip spacers in the front upper A-arm and stack them all to the rear of the A-arm for sharper turn in and better response at lower speeds

As for tires, I like the weight and grip of the Katars for racing around carving corners over the Backflips or Minokawas
 
Try the following and test to suit your particular driving style

- Lower your front and rear diff fluid to 10k or 7500cst

- lower the vehicles center of gravity by adjusting the droop screws front and rear

- move the shocks mounting points inward on the towers

- move the plastic "c" clip spacers in the front upper A-arm and stack them all to the rear of the A-arm for sharper turn in and better response at lower speeds

As for tires, I like the weight and grip of the Katars for racing around carving corners over the Backflips or Minokawas

Wow, alot of good advice??
What will switching sides on the c-clips do in reality? Tilting the upper part of the steering hubs forward?

As for diff fluids.
I guess such light fluids will make the front wheels balloon alot again, but maybe it will make for better handling?
 
Wow, alot of good advice??
What will switching sides on the c-clips do in reality? Tilting the upper part of the steering hubs forward?

As for diff fluids.
I guess such light fluids will make the front wheels balloon alot again, but maybe it will make for better handling?
In an effort to simplify things and not get overly technical ....
Moving the c-clips to rear of the upper A-arm will sharpen steering responsiveness and turn in while moving them to the front will add more stability at higher speeds. This either increases or decreases the caster angle depending which direction you go (back = positive & forward = negative or a more "neutral" caster in Arrma designed vehicles

For viscosity changes to the front and rear differential, you are making left vs right tire power distribution adjustments. Lowering the viscosity will allow the wheels to turn at different speeds more easily making for a quicker, tighter turning radius. Increase the viscosity and the vehicle will track more consistent in a straight line but will not want to turn as easily due to both left and right wheels trying to to turn the same speed. Think spool vs open differential in a 1:1 vehicle.

Viscosity changes in the center differential are responsible for front to rear power distribution adjustments, so as long as the center stays the same you shouldn't see a noticeable increase in ballooning to the front tires
 
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In an effort to simplify things and not get overly technical ....
Moving the c-clips to rear of the upper A-arm will sharpen steering responsiveness and turn in while moving them to the front will add more stability at higher speeds. This either increases or decreases the caster angle depending which direction you go (back = positive & forward = negative or a more "neutral" caster in Arrma designed vehicles

For viscosity changes to the front and rear differential, you are making left vs right tire power distribution adjustments. Lowering the viscosity will allow the wheels to turn at different speeds more easily making for a quicker, tighter turning radius. Increase the viscosity and the vehicle will track more consistent in a straight line but will not want to turn as easily due to both left and right wheels trying to to turn the same speed. Think spool vs open differential in a 1:1 vehicle.

Viscosity changes in the center differential are responsible for front to rear power distribution adjustments, so as long as the center stays the same you shouldn't see a noticeable increase in ballooning to the front tires

Great, now I have somewhere to start.

I though the c-clips were there to eliminate slop in the a-arms??

Thanks alot, this is exactly the things I want to know.
People always advice crazy thick fluids in the Arrma cars so I thought that was the way to go
 
Rather than writing a book, check out this link and all of the respective sections. Finding a good set up will require a lot of trial and error and many many laps. There are no magic bullets.

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-tuning-guide/

Thanks!
That was my next question, if there was somewhere you could learn all this.
I guess alot of people learn this stuff at the tracks by more experienced drivers.
We have no track around were I live and no one to ask really.
Off course it takes some trial and error but I really helps if someone can be nice and point you in the right direction.
 
Thanks!
That was my next question, if there was somewhere you could learn all this.
I guess alot of people learn this stuff at the tracks by more experienced drivers.
We have no track around were I live and no one to ask really.
Off course it takes some trial and error but I really helps if someone can be nice and point you in the right direction.


You are welcome. It's difficult to point someone in the right direction, there are so many variables. Everything changes everything. Just try to understand all the adjustments and their effect. Pick somewhere as a baseline to start and make adjustments from there. Make only one change at a time and keep track of what change was made and the result. Take lots of notes, If you don't, you will get lost. Every adjustment will have some effect on every other adjustment. One benefit to all the testing is that your driving skills will improve from all the practice.
 
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