Typhon Shock advice for Arrma Typhon 3s?

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Scisor34

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Arrma RC's
Me and a buddy get together every Sunday and race (as best we can lol). I’m running a stock 3s Typhon and he converted his Losi Tenacity to a buggy with their race set-up, aluminum chassis and nice shocks. We’re racing them on a construction site that’s kind of powdery/loose sand that’s not very consistently flat. We ran each other’s buggies for a while today and I was amazed at how his handled, seemed glued to the ground. I know in any form of racing suspension is key. Any advice on what shocks I should get or other mods that will help? I have a Granite 3s to bash with so I’m not concerned about doing anything with the Typhon other than make it perform better when racing.
 
the shocks wont make much difference, it's most likely the shock oil tuning, if your's seems bouncy over the bumps try lighter oil. also, you sure it's not just a matter of traction? try his tires.
 
the shocks wont make much difference, it's most likely the shock oil tuning, if your's seems bouncy over the bumps try lighter oil. also, you sure it's not just a matter of traction? try his tires.

Ok thanks, I’ll try his tires. I haven’t checked the diff fluid either, any advice on what I should use? The “track” we run is probably about 50 yards and just go around an object and full throttle to the same at the other end.
 
If your diff fluids are stock try 20k in the front I did that and it’s like a different truck.
 
First, make sure you shocks actually still have oil... the 3s shocks leak... the 6s shocks make a good upgrade- they are pretty good, but a true race shock will be smoother. If your buddy has the TENacity Prokit shocks, I bet the 6s shocks will be close to equal. If he has TLR SCTE or 22 shocks, they will be better.

When you rebuild your shocks, make sure they are butter smooth. Also, while the shocks are off the car, make sure your suspension arms drop free, with no stiction. Polish hinge pins, ream arms as needed.

If you are trying to go fast over rough ground, you need lighter oils and springs. Big air and smoother high speed turns need stiffer suspension.

Diff tuning can help with acceleration, turning and braking, but won't help with bouncing.
 
Ok thanks to everyone. I’ve also spun 2 spur gears. It sounded extremely grindy when rolling back and forth before the last one went. After taking it apart it rolls smooth and quiet. What’s the best adjustable motor mount and pinion spur gear combo? I’m not looking to get more speed because they’re literally the exact same speed but it seems like the pinion is rounding off even running a plastic spur which surprises me.
 

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that's the weaknes of the 3s line (i guess the 4s as well..)

check the motor bearings, i guess the bearing is toast and it let the motor rotor move, so the mesh is changing and grinding your spurs.
 
Is it worth going with a steel spur gear? I’ve always thought that it’s nice to have a weak spot in the drivetrain that’s cheap and easy to fix so I’ve never bought a steel spur gear. Also, any advice on a hardened pinion? And does anyone know if the Fast Eddie’s bearing kit comes with the motor bearings? Thanks again to everyone for their input.
 
Is it worth going with a steel spur gear? I’ve always thought that it’s nice to have a weak spot in the drivetrain that’s cheap and easy to fix so I’ve never bought a steel spur gear. Also, any advice on a hardened pinion? And does anyone know if the Fast Eddie’s bearing kit comes with the motor bearings? Thanks again to everyone for their input.
I think yes but of what i read if your plastic spur goes out its because of a bad gear mesh
There is a little space for debris to get inside the motor module next to the red thing in front of it
Cover that with tape
 
Is it worth going with a steel spur gear? I’ve always thought that it’s nice to have a weak spot in the drivetrain that’s cheap and easy to fix so I’ve never bought a steel spur gear. Also, any advice on a hardened pinion? And does anyone know if the Fast Eddie’s bearing kit comes with the motor bearings? Thanks again to everyone for their input.
I would rather have the slipper be the weak spot as it’s intended to be.

I don’t know if a single bearing kit that includes motor bearings. They are a few bucks to add to the kit. Not a big deal.
 
Is there any difference or preference between Jim’s or Fast Eddies bearings? I don’t want to spend the $ on ceramic so any advice on this is appreciated as well.
 
Is there any difference or preference between Jim’s or Fast Eddies bearings? I don’t want to spend the $ on ceramic so any advice on this is appreciated as well.
I’ve never bought Jim’s but I hear good things about them. Never had a single issue with my Eddy’s.
 
Is there any difference or preference between Jim’s or Fast Eddies bearings? I don’t want to spend the $ on ceramic so any advice on this is appreciated as well.

I got the jims and have about 20 packs through on them and they are running just fine and fit as expected!
 
Ok, so I ordered a kit of Fast Eddie’s bearings, bearings for my motor, and a HR adjustable motor mount. As long as I’m doing this I thought going to a 17 or 18 pinion just so I have a few mph on him in the straight always (my temps on the motor and esc are always below 150 so I think I should be ok there). What brand pinion and spur gear should I get, what tooth pinion, and should I go steel with the pinion? I’ve been into rc’s for 20yrs but took a hiatus for about the last 8yrs and am just getting caught back up but I like to think I’m pretty good at setting the mesh, paper test and all that, but you guys are a lot more familiar with things than I currently am. Thanks again for any advice!
 
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Ok thanks. Any advice on steel or plastic spur gear as well as size? I’m not looking for crazy speed but I’d like have about 5mph on him.
 
Ok thanks. Any advice on steel or plastic spur gear as well as size? I’m not looking for crazy speed but I’d like have about 5mph on him.

One tooth larger will probably come close to that in a longer stretch, just remember if you are sticking with the same motor the higher the pinion tooth count the harder it is to get off the line(for the motor) but your top end will go up...more teeth=higher top end and lower teeth=torq
 
I would go with the 4S slipper assembly with the steel spur (57T 0.8mod) and an 18T Robinson racing pinion.
 
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