Shock Bladder Issue

[jschlosser0405]

Anyone have this happen? I took the shocks apart a few weeks ago and installed the M2C pistons. Have bashed probably 4 times since then with no issues. Ripped around today for a while and hit the jump a few times and noticed a wet right rear shock around the top. Just took it apart and find the bladder basically sucked down into the shock body. Cap was definitely tight, bladder seated and dry underneath......any ideas?

 

[gotnitro]

Did you let all the air bubbles out of the oil first before capping it. What rebound did you set?

 

[jschlosser0405]

Did you let all the air bubbles out of the oil first before capping it. What rebound did you set?

No air at all, i've used a modified foodsaver with a jar to remove air from all my shocks before capping. basically no rebound, maybe 1/8th of a shaft worth

 

[gotnitro]

No air at all, i've used a modified foodsaver with a jar to remove air from all my shocks before capping. basically no rebound, maybe 1/8th of a shaft worth

Maybe it happened at the time it was tightened, got twisted and sucked in. Crap shoot really.. Love the food saver idea! Shock stand and time was my go to

 

[jschlosser0405]

Maybe it happened at the time it was tightened, got twisted and sucked in. Crap shoot really.. Love the food saver idea! Shock stand and time was my go to

I have no idea, weird how its been dry up until now. Yeah it works really good. I use it for diffs and shocks.

 

[bisak]

This same thing has been constantly happening on mine as well and is super annoying. I rebuild at least 50-60 shocks per year and this only happens on Arrmas. The issue is that the bladder doesn't get pinched hard enough between the shock cap and shock body. Only way I fixed it is by running emulsion shocks - o ring instead of a bladder or just grind off 0.5mm of the height of the cap so it doesn't bottom out on the lip on the shock body, thus screwing down further, thus pinching the bladder harder.

 

[jschlosser0405]

This same thing has been constantly happening on mine as well and is super annoying. I rebuild at least 50-60 shocks per year and this only happens on Arrmas. The issue is that the bladder doesn't get pinched hard enough between the shock cap and shock body. Only way I fixed it is by running emulsion shocks - o ring instead of a bladder or just grind off 0.5mm of the height of the cap so it doesn't bottom out on the lip on the shock body, thus screwing down further, thus pinching the bladder harder.

I actually haven't had a problem since the original post....i changed bladders. They were softer than new ones for some reason.

 

[Epplers]

On my Mojave shocks if I push the rod to far in when tightening the cap it will suck the bladder in when i pull the rod out.

 

[Kyõsuke]

I have the same problem, i spend hours to try to build my shocks on my Mojave and MT410, and when all is tight and i pump, the piston suck the bladder inside the shocks ;/
I was think it was a Arrma problem, but now i have the same problem on my MT410, so i'm the problem.
But i don't know what to do. I see a lot off vidéo and try a lot of technic but alwas the same problem ;/

 

[Liquid SSSnake]

I had the same problem on my 4Tec2.0 and on my infraction... no matter the technique, fail. I just switched to bleeder caps, so much easier to build and no leaks.

I got the Powerhobby caps, but the orings are too small for the emulsion conversion, so I had to find my own orings. Perhaps I shouldve went with M2C if they had the lower caps too. I pointed the issue out with Powerhobby and they sent me a free bonus. Maybe they'll start supplying the correct orings soon.

 

[Kyõsuke]

I think i'll go for the bleeder caps too !

 

[jschlosser0405]

I believe my issue was overfilling the shocks combined with not letting enough oil out when tightening down the cap and compressing the shock during re-assembly. I make sure it is dry behind the bladder (no oil residue even), and the vent hole in the cap is clear before I start assembly. Slow it down and let the oil out as you tighten the cap down. Heavier weight oils take a bit more time to come out. The force on the oil as you tighten the cap/compress shock MUST be less than the force it takes to compress the bladder, or you will have issues. In hindsight, I think all my issues were just technique. Live and learn! Nothing wrong with admitting to be a nOOb, I STILL consider myself one! haha.

 

[Kyõsuke]

I'm also a big noob xD I spent whole evenings trying to make a shock correctly. Now I'm going to go to the simplest xD

 

[Liquid SSSnake]

I think i'll go for the bleeder caps too !

I had to find 3/4" x 5/16" x 1/16 rubber washers. Cost me a little over a dollar for four locally.

I believe my issue was overfilling the shocks combined with not letting enough oil out when tightening down the cap and compressing the shock during re-assembly. I make sure it is dry behind the bladder (no oil residue even), and the vent hole in the cap is clear before I start assembly. Slow it down and let the oil out as you tighten the cap down. Heavier weight oils take a bit more time to come out. The force on the oil as you tighten the cap/compress shock MUST be less than the force it takes to compress the bladder, or you will have issues. In hindsight, I think all my issues were just technique. Live and learn! Nothing wrong with admitting to be a nOOb, I STILL consider myself one! haha.

The TLRT manual I downloaded on the Arrma site shows a different way of bleeding bladders than in my Infraction manual and other media. The TLR Typhon manual doesn't compress the shaft all the way or screw the cap as closely. Also in hindsight I probably shoud never compress the shaft all the way without the spring and collapse the bladder. I may try that one day, but I'm happy with what I have now.

With emulsion I just fill the shock up, remove bleeder screw, tighten the cap, compress shaft slowly, wait 30 secs with the shaft fully compresed before I put the bleeder screw in. All shocks feel the same the first time and it takes minutes. I don't have to guess with multiple variables with building bladders. Probably why they come underfilled and inconsistent out of the box.