Granite Shock/ diff oil and grease? advantages/disadvantages

dizzle000

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Hey everyone. So lst night decided it was a good time to do some matenance on my granite blx . replaced all the rod ends and pivot balls and after that decides might as well swap out the shock oil/top it up. So i went ahead and threw in some 50wt and they feel pretty good , until i get some typhon shocks. My question for you guys is what is everyone running for shock weight and front and rear diff oil wt? I think im going to tackle the diffs next and not sure what the stock wt is, and what the pros and cons would be of going a heavier wt
cheers
 

MrTitanium

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Factory 3s diff oil used is 10K for both front and rear.
 

dizzle000

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Factory 3s diff oil used is 10K for both front and rear.
mmk i have heard of guys using heavier weight oil in the diffs this would create more of a locker effect correct? But how heavy is to heavy?
 

MrTitanium

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Get the hot racing pivot balls will make the rod ends last longer
I beg to differ as the HR pivot balls are garbage and wear out just as fast as the factory units. Get the steel associated 81398 units instead (I wrote a review on these not too long ago).
 
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I beg to differ as the HR pivot balls are garbage and wear out just as fast as the factory units. Get the steel associated 81398 units instead (I wrote a review on these not too long ago).
It took a year before they started having play on my 4s kraton vs 1 month with the plastic
That option looks insteresting but did you ssy they were a tighter fit and could damage the rod ends?
10$ canadien for 4 oof.
 

MrTitanium

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It took a year before they started having play on my 4s kraton vs 1 month with the plastic
That option looks insteresting but did you ssy they were a tighter fit and could damage the rod ends?
The initial fit/installation of ASC81398 is indeed tighter, there is enough wall clearance to make them superior to the HR/factory plastic parts.

Keep in mind that if one drives their truck in gritty conditions, any rod end/hollow ball will surely fail prematurely.
 

murphy0987

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Traxxas 5525 is another option. They have steel pivot balls and screw into the arrma turnbuckles. I'm not convinced with the HR pivot balls either.
 

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MrTitanium

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Traxxas 5525 is another option. They have steel pivot balls and screw into the arrma turnbuckles. I'm not convinced with the HR pivot balls either.
I’ve heard of these traxxas units but aren’t pivot balls shorter than the Arrma units (require a shim to get right stack height)?
 

GRC

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mmk i have heard of guys using heavier weight oil in the diffs this would create more of a locker effect correct? But how heavy is to heavy?
Different weight diff oils are used if you want the wheels to spin more or less. Heavier oil makes it harder for wheels to spin. For example if the front wheels are ballooning excessively, heavier diff oil in the front will slow the front wheels down. If you want to wheelie more, keeping oil in the rear lighter compared to the front will make the car favor rear wheel power (which helps with wheelies.)

Unless you have a specific goal you want to accomplish, there is no reason to use heavier diff oil, it will just make the Granite work harder. I have a Granite 4x4 BLX. In think front and rear power is well balanced. I see no reason to adjust, no reason to make the Granite work harder. I used 10k in both.
 
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parcou

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Hey everyone. So lst night decided it was a good time to do some matenance on my granite blx . replaced all the rod ends and pivot balls and after that decides might as well swap out the shock oil/top it up. So i went ahead and threw in some 50wt and they feel pretty good , until i get some typhon shocks. My question for you guys is what is everyone running for shock weight and front and rear diff oil wt? I think im going to tackle the diffs next and not sure what the stock wt is, and what the pros and cons would be of going a heavier wt
cheers
Hi..you will find a lot of post on each of those topics here...I did a lot of searching to get a full picture

Diffs as one person posted the weight I think is good for the rig at 10k. I did mine and keep it 10k for front and back. I also used Red and Tacky for the outer gear ring and input gear...

For the shocks, I have 350cst or 30wt as OEM in my notes. I used 42.5wt when I had the OEM shocks on. I follow this for my oils in my aftermarket shocks:
  • Summer use 60 wt (77 Fahrenheit)
  • Winter use 42.5 wt (14 Fahrenheit)
Those work for me I am not doing 15-20+ feet jumps. I do bash it but I don't drive it to kill it I respect it for what it is and what it can do.

I live in the SE of the USA so I can really get away with 60wt all year since winters are not too back but the heat is a killer.
 

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