Typhon Signs of tired motor

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Frank Sumatra

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Got a Typhon 3s that's barely reaching 40 mph when flat out. ESC has green light on when full throttle, acceleration is good, just seems to run out of steam.

Could it be the original motor giving up?
 
Got a Typhon 3s that's barely reaching 40 mph when flat out. ESC has green light on when full throttle, acceleration is good, just seems to run out of steam.

Could it be the original motor giving up?
Maybe. Is it cogging bad as well? I’ve had that happen but also… How is your slipper? Have you checked it?
 
No cogging. Checked slipper and set like the videos advise. Can't feel any resistance in the drive train anywhere.

If I take the motor out,when i turn it, it feels like it has notches every 8th of a turn or so. Is that the magnets?
 
No cogging. Checked slipper and set like the videos advise. Can't feel any resistance in the drive train anywhere.

If I take the motor out,when i turn it, it feels like it has notches every 8th of a turn or so. Is that the magnets?
Yup that’s the magnets. Any play in the pinion when you try to wiggle backflip and forth? How old is it? Same function with different batteries? Is it super cold out?

When my stock motor began dying at 8 months old it had bad cogging and power loss. The bearings felt fine turning the pinion by hand but when I opened it they were half frozen and the motor was dirty.

On another car I lost power but it was the slipper, it was slipping way to much even after tightening. I took it apart and the pads were ‘glazed’. I probably had it too loose for awhile. I sanded them down (wear a mask doing this) reassembled and it was like new again.
 
Are you certain that your ESC throttle range is calibrated to your radio and that you didn't accidentally touch throttle trim?

Very unusual that a motor gets 'weaker', typically only happens after extreme overheat and the magnets loosing their intensity. Usually, the Kevlar wrap will give out before that is noticeable. You would especially feel it during acceleration, which you state is still ok.

Sounds more like calibration is off.
 
You can confirm or eliminate it’s the motor with a quick test if you have a multimeter and drill.
Same speed with the drill should equal the same A/C volts for all 3 phases.
 
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No play in the pinion but I've just taken it apart, cleaned out and put a bit of oil in the bearings (they both look ok) Seems to be much easier to turn the pinion now. It has resistance but if i turn it fast it continues to spin for half a second or so. Before it would stop dead. I'll give it a go tomorrow and see if it's any better. If not I'll order a cheap motor and try that.
Are you certain that your ESC throttle range is calibrated to your radio and that you didn't accidentally touch throttle trim?

Very unusual that a motor gets 'weaker', typically only happens after extreme overheat and the magnets loosing their intensity. Usually, the Kevlar wrap will give out before that is noticeable. You would especially feel it during acceleration, which you state is still ok.

Sounds more like calibration is off.
Done the calibration. Have the green light on ESC at full throttle, that means it's giving out max power?
 
No, green only means it is in forward.
By all means, I'm only guessing here and need a little more info.
What transmitter/receiver and ESC are you using?
Did you swap any of the 3 above to something new/repaired?

Stock speed is ~ 42mph with stock pinion.
What pinion do you have on there, and how are you measuring your speed? Almost 40 could also be just above 40, just saying.
 
No, green only means it is in forward.
By all means, I'm only guessing here and need a little more info.
What transmitter/receiver and ESC are you using?
Did you swap any of the 3 above to something new/repaired?

Stock speed is ~ 42mph with stock pinion.
What pinion do you have on there, and how are you measuring your speed? Almost 40 could also be just above 40, just saying.
Green light only comes on when at full throttle. Is that normal?

Dumborc x5 other than that it's all standard.

It is on stock pinion. I thought it was 50mph? Or is that with a 20t?
 
I believe stock pinion is 15T and that will get you into the low 40mph range.
You would have to gear up to go faster.

What size pinion do you have?
 
15t. I thought I'd seen videos of guys getting 50mph with that pinion and 60 with a 20.

I'll try and get out tomorrow and see if it's any better since cleaning up the motor.
 
No, green only means it is in forward.
By all means, I'm only guessing here and need a little more info.
What transmitter/receiver and ESC are you using?
Did you swap any of the 3 above to something new/repaired?

Stock speed is ~ 42mph with stock pinion.
What pinion do you have on there, and how are you measuring your speed? Almost 40 could also be just above 40, just saying.
+1
1000%.
____________________________________________
40MPH, give or take, Speed may be normal IMHO. And exactly how are you measuring your speed? A GPS speed meter? So we are all on the same page here.
You stated the motor seems rough when you turn by hand???
Absolutely take the motor apart when you see this. Inspect it well, cleaning it out, BB's and all. Use any Electrical parts spray to flush out all the dirt. BB's also. Relube if the BB's spin smooth enough. Look closely. These stocker motors fail easily. Poor BB's are installed from the factory with little to no lube in them. BB's are probably shot???
Open the motor Up. Best case you are ready for new Motor specific BB's. Worse case, the Armature is shot now, because the BB's are extremely bad, and not caught in time.. Need a new motor. And with a same new replacement motor, change out the BB's with better ones, before running it, or at minimum lube the stocker BB's well with a good high temp motor oil from the start.
 
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With exception to the Infraction, all Arrrma 6S run about 45mph out of the box, at least historically.
The speed pinion will get you into the 60 range, but with heat issues.
Highly suggest enjoying it at lower speeds first, but I know it's tempting.
 
Just to add to the previous post you can check the KV of the motor with a drill and Multimeter. If you get something close to what is spec, you know the motor is still good. Something higher the motor is probably on its way out.
I usually do these checks when I change the pinion or have run the motor hot.
Give’s me a little peace of mind.

BLX 185 2050kv below

0F74A513-C0F5-441E-A4CC-4C9C12B1E877.jpeg


AFD39FD8-2E96-49C7-B1AA-F06384106D5E.jpeg
 
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In the second pic……… changed the meter over to frequency and punched the drill. It’s a 4 pole motor so I entered those 2 numbers into the calculator and it spat out 480 RPM

BD0B89E7-4D6F-4770-A243-B4F20AAFC866.jpeg
 
Just took it out and got 41mph on the 15t. So if that's what they are supposed to do stock then I guess the motor is good. Put a 20t on there now, will try that tomorrow and see what we get.

Thanks for all your help so far :)
 
Put the 20T on today and went for a car park run. Not sure how quick it went as GPS packed up but it was much much quicker.
Then it went into limp mode on both fresh packs. Let it sit for 5 minutes and it was ok again. ESC blinking red. Is this LVC or temp?
It's seriously good fun with the 20T and i don't want to go back to anything smaller if possible.
What do i need to do? Lipo Alarm and disable the lvc on the ESC (BLX100) Or if it's temps get some fans?
Anyone else found a solution to this?
 
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