Talion Situation after use with 5 batteries Spektrum Lipo 6S g2 5000mah 100C

[Dan B.]

I don’t know of any good reason to upgrade the stock 29mm diffs to aluminum, but hopefully others will share their experiences. If you don’t get enough replies, consider starting a new thread conversation. This one is getting long and some may not be reading every comment.

I know that many choose to replace the center diff case with aluminum because under hard use the plastic ones have actually been known to melt. Some replace the other two with metal after rebuilding a couple of times and the threads in the plastic cases strip to the point where you can’t really seal your diffs anymore.

 

[Ivan79]

Need to translate Italian there.

Sorry my phone have traslate, now I have write in english.

 

[SrC]

Tru dat.

 

[Ivan79]

Most folks here have more experience with Open Differentials which do not have the LSD disks since LSD is newer. The big difference is you will have to use thicker oils without LSD. I don’t know about performance of LSD vs performance of open differentials.

I asked the question about grease and got a good discussion, here is the link.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/jims-bearings-waterproof-grease-for-spiral-spur-gears.57367/

Also this now in english sorry

 

[SrC]

I know that many choose to replace the center diff case with aluminum because under hard use the plastic ones have actually been known to melt. Some replace the other two with metal after rebuilding a couple of times and the threads in the plastic cases strip to the point where you can’t really seal your diffs anymore.

I find best use for the alloy cup is at the Center diff. The priority of any.
Center diff gets the hottest. I melted several center plastic stockers. But for the Fr and Rr., Plastic are fine, and having a lighter rotating mass is benefitial at Fr and Rr. The Fr/ Rr diffs don't run as hot IMHO. And the main gear/input gears are lubed with grease, hence less friction. The Center diff's spur and Pinion gears run dry, more friction heat results. Also Heat generated from the motor mount heats up the whole center diff. It's BB's and all. I've seen 200F+ degrees there.
The plastic diff cups are cheap enough to replace every 2 or 3 rebuilds. The Alloy cups are expensive. Yet still wear out at some point.
An Alloy setup is considerably heavier over the Plastic ones. The added weight loads up the drivetrain.

Note that only the Fireteam comes with a preinstalled Alloy Upgrade Center diff as standard. The Fr and Rr diffs remain plastic.


Edited.

 

[Ivan79]

^^^
+!
Ivan has LSD 29mm Diffs.
Needs 311061.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/metal-diff-case-29mm/ARA311061.html

@SrC @Snowmandk

This is my actual diff on the image attached, that mean I don't must use the ARA220050 but ARA311061 ?

I know that many choose to replace the center diff case with aluminum because under hard use the plastic ones have actually been known to melt. Some replace the other two with metal after rebuilding a couple of times and the threads in the plastic cases strip to the point where you can’t really seal your diffs anymore.

@Dan B. Exactly.

@JustAnOutcast like Dan B. Wrote I stay to consider metallic case on the three diff. Front/Cent/Rear to my bad first experience with the plastic one. I must repair and if it is possibile I would consider the most durable solution.

 

[SrC]

You need -311061 alloy diff cups for what you have. Yes.

 

[Ivan79]

You need -311061 alloy diff cups for what you have. Yes.

@SrC Thank you

I find best use for the alloy cup is at the Center diff. The priority of any.
Center diff gets the hottest. I melted several center plastic stockers. But for the Fr and Rr., Plastic are fine, and having a lighter rotating mass is benefitial at Fr and Rr. The Fr/ Rr diffs don't run as hot IMHO. And the main gear/input gears are lubed with grease, hence less friction. The Center diff's spur and Pinion gears run dry, more friction heat results. Also Heat generated from the motor mount heats up the whole center diff. It's BB's and all. I've seen 200F+ degrees there.
The plastic diff cups are cheap enough to replace every 2 or 3 rebuilds. The Alloy cups are expensive. Yet still wear out at some point.
An Alloy setup is considerably heavier over the Plastic ones. The added weight loads up the drivetrain.

Note that only the Fireteam comes with a preinstalled Alloy Upgrade Center diff as standard. The Fr and Rr diffs remain plastic.


Edited.

@SrC I have think to install three metallic ARA311061 Front/Center/Rear for have a most durable system, but you say that it is no good to the weight.

But if I will put the metallic ARA311061 on the center and the plastic on Front/Rear I will have a open diff on the center and LSD on the rear / front, you think that it is a good idea to mix this two system ?

EXB is written on the metal case ARA311061, perhaps this differential is not open and does it work with the LSD system?

You know if the ARA311061 can be fit also on the Front and Rear or it is build only for the center ?

 

[PeighDay]

@SrC Thank you

@SrC I have think to install three metallic ARA311061 Front/Center/Rear for have a most durable system, but you say that it is no good to the weight.

But if I will put the metallic ARA311061 on the center and the plastic on Front/Rear I will have a open diff on the center and LSD on the rear / front, you think that it is a good idea to mix this two system ?

EXB is written on the metal case ARA311061, perhaps this differential is not open and does it work with the LSD system?

You know if the ARA311061 can be fit also on the Front and Rear or it is build only for the center ?

View attachment 257725

You can use those diff cups in front / center / or rear. You can also use them with the LSD plates or the open shim diff kit.

ARA311094

 

[Ivan79]

You can use those diff cups in front / center / or rear. You can also use them with the LSD plates or the open shim diff kit.

ARA311094

View attachment 257741

@PeighDay

You mean that I can put the ARA311061 on all three diff front/center/rear ?

You mean that inside the metallic diff ARA311061 I can put the LSD shim ARA310984 like the picture attached ?

 

[JustAnOutcast]

I know that many choose to replace the center diff case with aluminum because under hard use the plastic ones have actually been known to melt.

Dang. This just now sunk in. I understand the center diff gets worked much harder, but what else would cause it to melt? Is oil thickness proportional to heat generated?

 

[PeighDay]

@PeighDay

You mean that I can put the ARA311061 on all three diff front/center/rear ?

You mean that inside the metallic diff ARA311061 I can put the LSD shim ARA310984 like the picture attached ?

View attachment 257745

Yes you can.

 

[Dan B.]

Dang. This just now sunk in. I understand the center diff gets worked much harder, but what else would cause it to melt? Is oil thickness proportional to heat generated?

I’ve never experienced it melting, but in all fairness I’ve never paid any attention whatsoever to the heat generated in the center diff. I think this is a question for @SrC who has experienced it. He’s one of the most knowledgeable people on this forum.

 

[SrC]

Yes heat generated is proportional to diff oil thickness.
Open Diffs with a very thin oil will allow for less resistance with the Planetary and Sun gears, they will rotate much faster. Hence more Friction/Heat. Along with accelerated wear under high loads. Much depends how and where you run the rig in question..
I find the Center diff needs a thicker oil mainly for this reason.