Sketer 1/10 MT from Corally

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yeah. I just want to run my Granite on 3s without breaking something almost every single run. I'm trying to not send my less durable rigs to the freaking moon every time now. I don't mind repairing them. But it gets expensive
What kind of breaks? I don't want to jinx myself, but I've got my Granite to the point that I rarely break and I do send it. Avoiding bad crashes is a big part of it, but mistakes do happen and my Granite survives hard hits. Upgraded shocks, servo, motor mount, motor bearings, turnbuckles, arms, rear yoke. 4S center brace, Typhon axles/hexes/nuts, loosened slipper clutch, foam in the bumper springs, sealed power module, WD-40 on all plastics.

But I've also learned that many other "upgrades" just create a different problem. Minimize metal and other heavy "upgrades." Metal just ends up damaging the next part and the added weight increases the chance of damage. For example, CVD's to avoid popped u-joints just breaks more wheel axles. Aluminum C-hubs will just break more knuckles (steering blocks). Add aluminum knuckles and you'll break axles, rod ends, and turnbuckles instead.. Metal diff, input gear and rear yoke will trash the rear slipper housing.

I ditched the metal CVD's, 10mm extensions, bash bar, front and rear knuckles, spur gear, steering rack, and heavy Trenchers. (That's alot of weight.) I don't think I'll need the metal diff/input gear. By simply eliminating flex, the very lightweight 4s center brace seems to have solved my rear diff/input gear stripping and should also reduce rear slipper housing damage. If it continues to hold up, I'll try ditching the aluminum rear yoke next. Also don't worry too much about slop. Wiggle room is a good thing for durability. No slop in your rod ends results in snapped rod ends and bent turnbuckles.
 
Last edited:
As I said, avoiding crashes is a big part of it. Getting a Sketer won't change this. These are not huge jumps, yet the Sketer comes out with a broken bumper, bent shock tower, blown ESC fan, overheating issues. I think my Granite might have survived the same punishment without damage.

 
As I said, avoiding crashes is a big part of it. Getting a Sketer won't change this. These are not huge jumps, yet the Sketer comes out with a broken bumper, bent shock tower, blown ESC fan, overheating issues. I think my Granite might have survived the same punishment without damage.

They're all vulnerable to breaking I suppose. RCdude 81 put it through the ringer and the Sketer came through quite well "I" think.
Thunder RC has a pretty good video comparing the Vortex to the Hoss..I was blown away by the pounding that each of them took!
My point is, if that were "me",with "my" luck, they ALL would've been broken🤣🤣
One day, I can't break anything, the next I break it on a perfect landing..🤣🤣
 
Yeah, but I'm always a bit wary of some YouTuber videos. They do show some damage, but they definitely don't show all. I love both RC Dude81 and Rich Duperdash, but in all their 3s Arrma videos, not a single bent motor mount, popped driveshaft, bent shock shaft, or broken bumper spring is shown. There is NO WAY they haven't done all of the above the way they bash their 3s Arrma's. Aussie RC Playground and Thunder are pretty good about showing real breakage.
 
Yeah, but I'm always a bit wary of some YouTuber videos. They do show some damage, but they definitely don't show all. I love both RC Dude81 and Rich Duperdash, but in all their 3s Arrma videos, not a single bent motor mount, popped driveshaft, bent shock shaft, or broken bumper spring is shown. There is NO WAY they haven't done all of the above the way they bash their 3s Arrma's. Aussie RC Playground and Thunder are pretty good about showing real breakage.
True. We just never really know what they aren't showing us. I like Vas' vids too.
 
What kind of breaks? I don't want to jinx myself, but I've got my Granite to the point that I rarely break and I do send it. Avoiding bad crashes is a big part of it, but mistakes do happen and my Granite survives hard hits. Upgraded shocks, servo, motor mount, motor bearings, turnbuckles, arms, rear yoke. 4S center brace, Typhon axles/hexes/nuts, loosened slipper clutch, foam in the bumper springs, sealed power module, WD-40 on all plastics.

But I've also learned that many other "upgrades" just create a different problem. Minimize metal and other heavy "upgrades." Metal just ends up damaging the next part and the added weight increases the chance of damage. For example, CVD's to avoid popped u-joints just breaks more wheel axles. Aluminum C-hubs will just break more knuckles (steering blocks). Add aluminum knuckles and you'll break axles, rod ends, and turnbuckles instead.. Metal diff, input gear and rear yoke will trash the rear slipper housing.

I ditched the metal CVD's, 10mm extensions, bash bar, front and rear knuckles, spur gear, steering rack, and heavy Trenchers. (That's alot of weight.) I don't think I'll need the metal diff/input gear. By simply eliminating flex, the very lightweight 4s center brace seems to have solved my rear diff/input gear stripping and should also reduce rear slipper housing damage. If it continues to hold up, I'll try ditching the aluminum rear yoke next. Also don't worry too much about slop. Wiggle room is a good thing for durability. No slop in your rod ends results in snapped rod ends and bent turnbuckles.
Honestly, I haven't been even able to run it properly. Once I get things all together I'm going to see what happens. It felt way too slow with the Felony motor and ESC. Just dumb stuff has been breaking on it. I just might make it a damn dedicated on road speed vehicle if I see that it doesn't hold up with all the upgrades while doing light bashing (I'll only run it on 3s with stock gearing and electronics).
 
Felony motor and ESC on a Granite? On road speed vehicle? The Granite is the worst Arrma platform you could choose. It's not surprising it's not running right. With a short wheelbase and monster truck tires, the Granite is designed to be best at one thing and one thing only, aerial flips. In EVERY other category: speed, stability, handling, off-road, on-road, big air, there are Arrma's that perform better. Use the Granite for what it was designed for, don't try to make it something it's not.
 
Last edited:
Felony motor and ESC on a Granite? On road speed vehicle? The Granite is the worst Arrma platform you could choose. It's not surprising it's not running right. With a short wheelbase and monster truck tires, the Granite is designed to be best at one thing and one thing only, aerial flips. In EVERY other category: speed, stability, handling, off-road, big air, there are Arrma's that perform better. Use the Granite for what it was designed for, don't try to make it something it's not.
You can do just about anything you want with any RC. Just saying. BTW, none of my RC vehicles were designed from factory to take 26ft plus jumps. And they survive easily all the time after upgrading them 🤷. Not my creation, but it's still impressive :
 
I know people do it, but it's still the worst Arrma platform to start with. A longer wheelbase is a better place to start. Shorter Vorteks/Vendetta shock towers and shocks are a better place to start. A Limitless is a much better place to start. If you want the challenge, then you're inviting all the problems of trying to make it do something it's not designed for. At that point, you can't complain and say a Sketer would be better. The Granite was designed to flip, and it does that much better than a Sketer (and just about any other RC, with maybe 2 or 3 exceptions).
 
Last edited:
I know people do it, but it's still the worst Arrma platform to start with. A longer wheelbase is a better place to start. Shorter Vorteks/Vendetta shock towers, shocks are a better place to start. A Limitless is a much better place to start. If you want the challenge, then you're inviting all the problems of trying to make it do something it's not designed for. At that point, you can't complain and say a Sketer would be better. The Granite was designed to flip, and it does that much better than a Sketer (and just about any other RC, with maybe 2 or 3 exceptions).
Actually my Kaiju on 6s can do quadruple backflips on 6s. I understand what you are trying to say, but at the end of the day, we all do whatever we want with our toys 🤣👍. BTW, that granite is faster than my fastest RC vehicle, which is my Felony with XLX2 🤷🤣. Probably not for long though after I'm done with the thunder truck conversion. They are just toys anyways. Yeah I wouldn't recommend a Granite as a speed vehicle, but I'm not going to just throw away all the upgrades that I did on it already. That would make even LESS SENSE than buying the upgrades in the first place. I'm just thinking it would probably be an alternative for this money pit. BTW, I have around $3k on each of my 8s Arrmas, so the money spent on the Granite so far pales in comparison to that 🤪
 
Just took my skeeter out for its maiden today, I had it sitting on the shelf since it was released but had a bunch of other builds to work on before getting into it. Reviews seemed to indicate it needed some more power and a few other adjustments so I waited till I had some time to work on it. I was thinking initially I would replace the esc and motor, but I’m not sure now. It felt about as peppy as a 4s max. I just upgraded a v2 max to a arrma 8th scale power system, the firma 150 / 2050 kv and it’s a Bit too much on 6s, overly wheelie prone unless geared down. Since the skeeter is about the same weight with a shorter wheelbase I think I want to keep the power upgrade more mild and use some of the existing set up. I’m thinking of using a quick run 150 with the stock motor and go up a few teeth running at 4s. Then if I absolutely had too I could go up to a bigger lower kv motor On 6s.
i generally liked the truck, it Was a little tippy so I may Widen it with the Kronos hubs and stubs. My break was way too high, but I don’t remember if I adjusted the esc when I picked it up and accident;y set it too high or if the esc came that way, but any break adjusting in the air caused a nose dIve!

The one real complaint I have is that every wheel is locker on, I mean even tapping it With a plastic mallet doesn’t loosen the wheels, you can see the wheels opening was way to small snd the plastic around the wheel opening is stretched and tight. Not sure how I’m getting them off other then pulling off the pillow ball hubs assembly and possibly using a heat gun to soften the plastic. I tried lubbing and every type of manipulation possible and not one wheel moved! Anyone else have this issue on an early release skeeter?
 
Just took my skeeter out for its maiden today, I had it sitting on the shelf since it was released but had a bunch of other builds to work on before getting into it. Reviews seemed to indicate it needed some more power and a few other adjustments so I waited till I had some time to work on it. I was thinking initially I would replace the esc and motor, but I’m not sure now. It felt about as peppy as a 4s max. I just upgraded a v2 max to a arrma 8th scale power system, the firma 150 / 2050 kv and it’s a Bit too much on 6s, overly wheelie prone unless geared down. Since the skeeter is about the same weight with a shorter wheelbase I think I want to keep the power upgrade more mild and use some of the existing set up. I’m thinking of using a quick run 150 with the stock motor and go up a few teeth running at 4s. Then if I absolutely had too I could go up to a bigger lower kv motor On 6s.
i generally liked the truck, it Was a little tippy so I may Widen it with the Kronos hubs and stubs. My break was way too high, but I don’t remember if I adjusted the esc when I picked it up and accident;y set it too high or if the esc came that way, but any break adjusting in the air caused a nose dIve!

The one real complaint I have is that every wheel is locker on, I mean even tapping it With a plastic mallet doesn’t loosen the wheels, you can see the wheels opening was way to small snd the plastic around the wheel opening is stretched and tight. Not sure how I’m getting them off other then pulling off the pillow ball hubs assembly and possibly using a heat gun to soften the plastic. I tried lubbing and every type of manipulation possible and not one wheel moved! Anyone else have this issue on an early release skeeter?
Use a hair dryer on high for 50 sec. The wheels come right off.
 
Just took my skeeter out for its maiden today, I had it sitting on the shelf since it was released but had a bunch of other builds to work on before getting into it. Reviews seemed to indicate it needed some more power and a few other adjustments so I waited till I had some time to work on it. I was thinking initially I would replace the esc and motor, but I’m not sure now. It felt about as peppy as a 4s max. I just upgraded a v2 max to a arrma 8th scale power system, the firma 150 / 2050 kv and it’s a Bit too much on 6s, overly wheelie prone unless geared down. Since the skeeter is about the same weight with a shorter wheelbase I think I want to keep the power upgrade more mild and use some of the existing set up. I’m thinking of using a quick run 150 with the stock motor and go up a few teeth running at 4s. Then if I absolutely had too I could go up to a bigger lower kv motor On 6s.
i generally liked the truck, it Was a little tippy so I may Widen it with the Kronos hubs and stubs. My break was way too high, but I don’t remember if I adjusted the esc when I picked it up and accident;y set it too high or if the esc came that way, but any break adjusting in the air caused a nose dIve!

The one real complaint I have is that every wheel is locker on, I mean even tapping it With a plastic mallet doesn’t loosen the wheels, you can see the wheels opening was way to small snd the plastic around the wheel opening is stretched and tight. Not sure how I’m getting them off other then pulling off the pillow ball hubs assembly and possibly using a heat gun to soften the plastic. I tried lubbing and every type of manipulation possible and not one wheel moved! Anyone else have this issue on an early release skeeter?

Oh man Arrma does this with their wheels too, I swore I was going to break my Outcast trying to get the wheels off when I got it. I ended up having to take my body hole reamer to them before I could even get them back on. My Kraton EXB wheels stick but near as bad as the Outcast wheels did.
 
Yea, my notorious 6s had one wheel like this, but it could be removed with some effprt, I took a razor blade and shaved the corner edges of tge wheel hex and enlarged the opening by a hair and it was fine.
‘Thanks for confirming a hair dryer or heat gun on low should work, it’s the only thing I didn’t try yet.
‘I took out my trugified typhon and skeeter again last night for a quick run to see the difference between the speed. My Typhon is a hybrid with Mohave wheels, shafts and arms with Typhon everywhere parts everywhere else.
it reinforced that I want to keep the power upgrade on the skeeter limited to 4s. while a blast t0 drove, the Typhon hybrod was a snarling mess on throttle, instant wheelies and one wheel dancing on heavy throttle blips. The skeeter I want to be more of a scalpel. I may just add some 5mm m2c extensions amd leave the narrower offset hubs, I liked the nimbleness of the skeeter over the typhoons Mohave arm added width. I used kraton hubs also on the Typhon worh the Mohave arms, so even wot zero offset Mohave wheels, it’s pretty wide. The skeeter needs a bit more power though, what do you all think of going to a higher headroom esc and going up on pinion With the stock motor? I have a h0bbywing quickrun 150 amp esc I want to run on 4s. That would have plenty of headroom to drive higher gearing if the stock motor can handle it. I’m not looking for major power increases, just moderate
 
Oh man Arrma does this with their wheels too, I swore I was going to break my Outcast trying to get the wheels off when I got it. I ended up having to take my body hole reamer to them before I could even get them back on. My Kraton EXB wheels stick but near as bad as the Outcast wheels did.
I just use a rubber mallet and BTF out of my wheels when they do that with no damage 😂
Use a hair dryer on high for 50 sec. The wheels come right off.
Or a rubber mallet 😂👍
 
So I guess the Sketer is a pretty nice RC? I might just pick one up

 
Love mine!
How long have you had it? How's the chassis holding up? How high do you jump it? My jumps are around 26ft high, so I've managed to destroy every single Arrma chassis, including my EXB K8S. The only chassis that I haven't bent is the Mojave EXB chassis with big jumps, but I have since stopped trying to go full speed on ramps for that one, since it's not a good idea to do that with a SCT. Thanks!
 
Here's mine.... Broke front bumper and esc fan that's it, I'm not a mega jumper but at the same time I'm not careful either..
Drive it like you stole it..!! :cool::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

IMG_3428.jpeg
IMG_3538.jpeg
 
Back
Top