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Yeah I guess I’ll polish the edges up, and probably grind it down a little.Still waiting on my tires so I got time to spare. I’ll get to that on Monday.Are you going to bevel down the outside edges? That seems fairly thick, and likely to catch on the edges. If it does, the ensuing damage could be much more devastating, ie: tearing out the screws from whatever they are attached to.
Edit: I was typing while @olds97_lss had made his post.
You just type faster.There's a parrot in here! WHO LEFT THE DOOR OPEN?!?!
Pretty cheap, I like. Honestly though, I’m doing this at free cost, and steel will last forever.FYI, M2C has new 7075 skid plates available. https://www.m2cracing.com/product.s...B6.p3plqscsfapp005?productId=958&categoryId=1
You would think so, but I'm on my second one since July on the rear of my outcast.Honestly though, I’m doing this at free cost, and steel will last forever.
Ah yeah that ones pretty worn down. I’ll keep mine thick.You would think so, but I'm on my second one since July on the rear of my outcast.
I make mine out of 1/8" plate steel.
Yours will last a very long time though.
I had issues with cracking engine blocks in my jato for years. I got fed up with it eventually, then built a little dam around the engine mount, put in about 1/4" of mixed jb-weld, coated the bottom of the engine with grease, then mounted the engine and let it cure. I also put a heavy oil on the chassis where the engine bay was under the JBweld pool. When it cured, I had a form fitted engine cradle. Never broke another crank case again. Also, the grease/oil allowed me to get the engine out and slide the engine mount around to adjust mesh as it didn't stick to either, but form fitted to both really well.What can I say I tend to do things as stupidly as possible.
FYI, M2C has new 7075 skid plates available. https://www.m2cracing.com/product.s...B6.p3plqscsfapp005?productId=958&categoryId=1
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