Slevin’s Arrma Typhon 6s GT conversion build

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Slevin

Pew pew!!
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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Typhon 6s
So I’ve been wanting to build a Typhon GT car for a really long time. So found and picked up a used typhon roller for cheap. This will be a long term build. I’ll post photos as it comes along and when it arrives!

thanks to @joostin420 and @LibertyMKiii for answering a lot of my questions! I’m sure I’ll have more!
 
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Question...

I know the purchase of the rear toe in for off road vehicles but do I need it for on road? If not, how do I get rid of it?
I believe there are other brands of delrin inserts for the rear pin blocks to offset the rear toe. I could be wrong but I think Tekno was the ones I saw? ??‍♂️
 
Question...

I know the purchase of the rear toe in for off road vehicles but do I need it for on road? If not, how do I get rid of it?
M2C is supposed to release a rear zero toe adjustment. Not sure when that will happen.
You can find on eBay the Team Durango rear pieces to accomplish this although it takes some cutting and grinding to make it fit.

***Edit
M2C has it offered now. Looks like they determined keeping a small amount of toe in was a good thing. (I agree)
https://m2cracing.net/arrma/469-m2c-3120-arrma-on-road-rear-hinge-pin-retainer-kit.html
 
M2C is supposed to release a rear zero toe adjustment. Not sure when that will happen.
You can find on eBay the Team Durango rear pieces to accomplish this although it takes some cutting and grinding to make it fit.

***Edit
M2C has it offered now. Looks like they determined keeping a small amount of toe in was a good thing. (I agree)
https://m2cracing.net/arrma/469-m2c-3120-arrma-on-road-rear-hinge-pin-retainer-kit.html
I need to hustle a little harder. $70 ?
 
Yeah that was my thought. To me that is the part you change very last when you have gone as fast as you can go and are looking for those last 2-3 mph to beat a record.
I think I will stick to printing parts for the 3S line ???
 
M2C is supposed to release a rear zero toe adjustment. Not sure when that will happen.
You can find on eBay the Team Durango rear pieces to accomplish this although it takes some cutting and grinding to make it fit.

***Edit
M2C has it offered now. Looks like they determined keeping a small amount of toe in was a good thing. (I agree)
https://m2cracing.net/arrma/469-m2c-3120-arrma-on-road-rear-hinge-pin-retainer-kit.html
Yeah I saw those! Super nice but definitely going to be one of the last things I buy cus $$$. Lol. One day!
 
Here is my typhon!!

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BD072BCB-5CCA-44EE-B92C-B70385A944C2.jpeg
 
Did some work on the car tonight. Mostly just got the parts organized.

9B257256-FD4C-4AC4-BE11-7581086DC811.jpeg


I ordered new two new diff gear box sets so you won’t see any pictures here. The bearings on the red plate are trash and I have new Avid bearings for this build. The Ackerman plate is bent to poop and fortunately I already have a replacement.

Installed the voltage hobbies servo mount and the steering posts.

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Installed the pillow balls.

981349B4-0BBA-43FB-AC76-796FCCB8442E.jpeg


I’m going to go the route @LibertyMKiii went with the infraction shock towers and front/rear shocks. I still have to purchase those but that’ll be for another day.
 
I got my mugen parts in today as well as some replacement parts. I’m going to start building the diffs next.

so here is my question...

What diff fluid should I go with?
 
I got my mugen parts in today as well as some replacement parts. I’m going to start building the diffs next.

so here is my question...

What diff fluid should I go with?

You had mentioned this was a GT car. Will it be doing a fair amount of parking lot running?
If so then probably something in the 100k to 300k range.
 
You had mentioned this was a GT car. Will it be doing a fair amount of parking lot running?
If so then probably something in the 100k to 300k range.
Yeah just running around parking lots and doing some speed running but nothing extreme atm.
Ooo I got my EMP battery trays in today too! I’m going to try working on it this weekend.
 
I got the EMP battery trays installed tonight and started working on the steering. I’m replacing all the bearings with Avid bearings.

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@LibertyMKiii I see what you mean when you mentioned bending the battery trays. How did you go about bending them? I’m assuming you bent them so they are more parallel to the ground?

The EMP kit came with cap head screws. I replaced those with flat head screws.
 
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@LibertyMKiii I see what you mean when you mentioned bending the battery trays. How did you go about bending them? I’m assuming you bent them so they are more parallel to the ground?

The EMP kit came with cap head screws. I replaced those with flat head screws.

Once they were bolted on I simply pulled on the outer edge while bracing the center of the chassis. Not sure if I was bending the chassis or the trays, but it worked ;)
 
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