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- #41
Picked up a MMX 8s tonight from shadow hobbies. They have two left!
Slevin’s Arrma Typhon 6s GT conversion build
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- Thread starter
- #42
Here she is atm. Motor is mounted but haven’t put Loctite on the screws yet. Definitely will need a heat sink and fan. I will pick up the yeah racing dual fan heat sink again. I threw in the cheapo Arrma servo for now.
I put two screws in the rear tower to start figuring out how to mount the rear body mounts. I already have a plan for that depending on how the body I want fits.
I’ll remake the front bumper mount again. This is pretty thick kydex. It is .125 in thick. Heating it up was super easy with a heat gun. I only had to apply heat for about 15 to 20 secs and it was pliable. My original plan was to mount it to the two screws at the top of the diff housing but I think mounting it to the top front tower screws is better. I did add some spacers between the kydex and the tower.
I’m going to remove the wing mount. I need to cut out some CF to replace the front part of it.
I put two screws in the rear tower to start figuring out how to mount the rear body mounts. I already have a plan for that depending on how the body I want fits.
I’ll remake the front bumper mount again. This is pretty thick kydex. It is .125 in thick. Heating it up was super easy with a heat gun. I only had to apply heat for about 15 to 20 secs and it was pliable. My original plan was to mount it to the two screws at the top of the diff housing but I think mounting it to the top front tower screws is better. I did add some spacers between the kydex and the tower.
I’m going to remove the wing mount. I need to cut out some CF to replace the front part of it.
What are you using for rear body mounts ? Also what kind of front bumper system is that?
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That's a nice solution! I was thinking if it is possible to use the top mount that is provided with the front bumper and use some sort of spacer between the tower and the mount. Maybe not possible, I will found out tomorrow when I start my build 
- Thread starter
- #45
I’m using the Mugen front bumper and body mounts. Below is the three part numbers.
yes you can! @joostin420 did this very option. My plan is to do the same if the above fails, however, the kydex feels really strong. It is good to have many options. Here is a link to @joostin420’s thread.That's a nice solution! I was thinking if it is possible to use the top mount that is provided with the front bumper and use some sort of spacer between the tower and the mount. Maybe not possible, I will found out tomorrow when I start my build
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/anyone-running-tp-4050cm-3200kv-on-6s.10069/page-5
- Thread starter
- #46
Boy do I suck at cutting. So these are my next two attempts at making a new brace. The left one is just awful. The right one is better but not super great either. Fortunately I have more kydex to practice on.
I’m using a 6.5 in coping saw to cut them and it cuts super easy. Then I’ll use sandpaper and a file to even things out.
I’m using a 6.5 in coping saw to cut them and it cuts super easy. Then I’ll use sandpaper and a file to even things out.
Joelk
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If you are new to working with kydex I think that you are doing pretty well
After years of using it to make holsters I have found the easiest way is to cut it oversize, shape, use a belt sander or flap wheel to refine, and then use a buffing wheel to finish. Be careful with the buffing wheel, as too much pressure will melt and remove material, but light pressure will clean up your rough edges.
If you are short on tools, rough out with jigsaw, knife or shears, finish with buffing wheel or dremel.
Moderate to hard pressure will quickly remove material, light pressure will give you a nice clean finish.
After years of using it to make holsters I have found the easiest way is to cut it oversize, shape, use a belt sander or flap wheel to refine, and then use a buffing wheel to finish. Be careful with the buffing wheel, as too much pressure will melt and remove material, but light pressure will clean up your rough edges.
If you are short on tools, rough out with jigsaw, knife or shears, finish with buffing wheel or dremel.
Moderate to hard pressure will quickly remove material, light pressure will give you a nice clean finish.
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Cutting carbon fiber is similar. It is recommended to cut oversized by 1-2 mm then sand with a long block to get the edges straight.
(Unless you have a CNC )
(Unless you have a CNC )
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks for the tips!! Unfortunately I don’t have a belt sander but I do have a Dremel. I will give that a shot!
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- #50
Caps are in!
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- #51
After messing with trying to mold the kydex to the shape that I needed, I gave up! Lol! I think I just got lucky on my first mount. My next few just did not work right. I think a pliable aluminum might work a bit better for this idea or maybe I just need more experience with kydex.
Anyways, I went with @joostin420 idea but used kydex instead of CF. This was a bit easier to do but required lots of grinding away with the Dremel to get the Mugen mount to fit properly. But it works!
Anyways, I went with @joostin420 idea but used kydex instead of CF. This was a bit easier to do but required lots of grinding away with the Dremel to get the Mugen mount to fit properly. But it works!
- Thread starter
- #52
Trying to decide which lipos to go with first...
Power Hobby 3s 5400 100c
https://www.powerhobby.com/powerhobby-3s-11-1v-5400mah-100c-lipo-battery-w-xt90-plug-hard-case.html
Or....
Turnigy Graphene Panthers 5000 75c
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene-5000mah-3s-75c.html
They are basically the same price...
Power Hobby 3s 5400 100c
https://www.powerhobby.com/powerhobby-3s-11-1v-5400mah-100c-lipo-battery-w-xt90-plug-hard-case.html
Or....
Turnigy Graphene Panthers 5000 75c
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene-5000mah-3s-75c.html
They are basically the same price...
jondilly1974
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That's not even a question then. Turnigy Graphene Panthers are the best you can buy.
joostin420
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I also run turnigy graphene.
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Turnigy graphenes it is!
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That looks great!!! I don’t know much about pvc. Was it easy to form?
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It was really easy. Just apply some heat with a heat gun and then bend it and keep it in that position until it has cooled down a bit ??This was 4mm and it feels super sturdy.
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- #59
That's how the kydex was but I couldn't get a good crease in it like yours. Maybe I need to learn a better technique!
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I had it in a vice and folded it by pressing it with a small sheat of metal to get a narrow crease. Not sure if I can explain any better ? I also did two creases, its hard to tell from my picture ??That's how the kydex was but I couldn't get a good crease in it like yours. Maybe I need to learn a better technique!
