Fireteam Slick's Fireteam 6s BLX

slick2500

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And because we all know rtr means ready to rebuild.

  • All the pivot balls were loose.
  • All 4 hubs will need shims.
  • Front shocks were underfilled and both shock pistons were loose.
  • Front diff was underfilled but not empty.
  • One front gearbox screw hole stripped out.
  • Gear mesh was too tight and of course Arrma loves them some red thread lock and even after hitting the motor slider screws with a torch they stripped out when trying to loosen them. They set the gear mesh by basically just pushing the slider over as far as they could.
  • Center diff was basically empty and the fluid looked like it had been used.
  • Rear diff was a little low like the front.
  • Rear shocks were also underfilled and the pistons were loose.
  • Front center driveshaft was bent.



1670704090682.png



20221210_132837.jpg


1670704155741.jpeg


Front diff.
1670713990028.jpeg


Center diff.
1670714655440.jpeg


1670715314920.jpeg


1670715292087.jpeg


Rear diff.
1670778549219.jpeg
 
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SrC

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Pretty much this is representative with all the FT's out there. At least Arrma is consistent here.:ROFLMAO:
Same here with the Motor mount screws. They use too much Gorilla snot Red TL everywhere. And I even knew to heat/torch the screws first. One stripped anyway. . A dremel and a Flathead got it out.
I used 3mm Hexed Cap head screws instead.
Have you checked the stub axel grub screws holding the Hex adapter pins. All 4 of mine were super TL'ed also. I carefully loosened them. I got burned before and needed new hubs and stub axels and pins. Grubs screws stripped out and its a wrap. Even the pins were bent from overtightening at the factory. I always check this while under warranty out the box. The Grub screws here don't even need any TL. The pins are captured anyway by the Wheel's hex. Just snugging these grub screws is enough. Arrma must absolutely know about these assy. flaws. Because they graciously accommdate you under the 2 year warranty. They don't care.
 
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RCbuzz

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Thanks Slick! How did you find out the gearbox housing was stripped? Just loosen and re-tighten?

Do you swap out the shims in the diffs too? Assuming that Mugen kit also works on the center?
 

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If I don't disassemble the part and find any stripped screws upon reassembly , I will loosen, then tighten as a check. Usually how I find stripped screws in plastic parts. The factory builds these rigs so fast, with Screw guns/powerdrivers , not so well calibrated. Power drivers spinning too fast softens melts the holes and they strip out. This is common on the Chassis' 4 bulkhead 4mm FH screws.
 
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slick2500

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  4. Senton 3s
  5. Typhon 3s
Pretty much this is representative with all the FT's out there. At least Arrma is consistent here.:ROFLMAO:
Same here with the Motor mount screws. They use too much Gorilla snot Red TL everywhere. And I even knew to heat/torch the screws first. One stripped anyway. . A dremel and a Flathead got it out.
I used 3mm Hexed Cap head screws instead.
Have you checked the stub axel grub screws holding the Hex adapter pins. All 4 of mine were super TL'ed also. I carefully loosened them. I got burned before and needed new hubs and stub axels and pins. Grubs screws stripped out and its a wrap. Even the pins were bent from overtightening at the factory. I always check this while under warranty out the box. The Grub screws here don't even need any TL. The pins are captured anyway by the Wheel's hex. Just snugging these grub screws is enough. Arrma must absolutely know about these assy. flaws. Because they graciously accommdate you under the 2 year warranty. They don't care.
I didn't check the rear yet but the front did not have any thread lock on it. The SafeD cup was not causing the front driveshaft to wobble, I stuck on the OG diff cup and it still wobbles.

All my hex grubs required me to hit them with the torch first.
Thanks Slick! How did you find out the gearbox housing was stripped? Just loosen and re-tighten?

Do you swap out the shims in the diffs too? Assuming that Mugen kit also works on the center?
When I went to put the screws back in after filling up the diff.

No I just topped off the fluid for now, I will run a few packs through them then do a full on rebuild.
Hmm I wonder why so many average users that don't wrench like we do post so many issues on the forums about new cars doing wonky stuff. lolol


Was that hair in the rear diff already? hahaha
Probably not I have 2 cats.

So far I replaced the stripped out gearbox with a Hot Racing unit.

1670805582636.jpeg



FU hinge pin mount replaced with a Hot Racing unit until I get the EXB pins and mount.

1670805627286.jpeg


Battery tray moved to the rear position.

1670805648876.jpeg
 
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SrC

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@slick2500, you said the stocker input cup was fine?
Could be the GP4 Input gear is "Off"? :unsure:
And you are using the HR Bulkhead with the oversized outer input gear BB?
Are your driveshafts straight, roll flat?
 

slick2500

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@slick2500, you said the stocker input cup was fine?
Could be the GP4 Input gear is "Off"? :unsure:
And you are using the HR Bulkhead with the oversized outer input gear BB?
Are your driveshafts straight, roll flat?
This doesn't have GP4 diffs. When I pulled the gearbox off the SafeD cup didn't have the typical wobble that they usually do. Input gear looked fine as well.
Yup, I bought the gearboxes second hand so I had a 10 pack of those bearings. That gearbox was originally supposed to go in my Kraton 6s EXB when I got around to doing it, but as I didn't feel like tearing apart the front end of 2 cars at the same time I just stuck it in the Fireteam. I'll have to take a look at the drive shaft again the next time I tear it apart.
 

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My bad. :rolleyes:

These are the og RTR Main and input diff gears. (y)
 

slick2500

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Found another issue the rear hubs don't really fit inside the a arms, there is a small 1-2mm gap on each side and the spacers are in backwards. The caster clips were also all behind the front upper a arms instead of having 1 large in front and 2 small in the rear.

1670918075944.jpeg


1670918090912.jpeg


No gap on the Outcast.

1670918357582.jpeg


1670918372716.jpeg
 

slick2500

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How is the stock power system in these? I haven't had a chance to even test mine as Amazon still hasn't shipped out my XT90s I ordered last Thursday.
 

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I saw the hub spacers also.
I Questionend that. It could be a FT specific adjustment that Arrma did by design.. Were you missing a spacer on each side???
Mine had 0.5mm slop each side. I added another .5 mm spacer on each hub. Solved. I kept the spacing position, so that the hub was centered on it hinge pin.
I know with my Tekno MT/ manual, that the spacing of the hub can be changed to alter the wheel base ever so subtly by placing the spacers fore or aft as desired.
Note that placing all the spacers rearward of the hub, makes the Dogbone more angled to the Output cup. If that matters.
Placing all the spacers forward of the hub, will sometimes cause the dogbone to rub the Shock spring perches.
:cool:

Edited.
 
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slick2500

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I saw the hub spacers also.
I Questionend that. It could be a FT specific adjustment that Arrma did by design.. Were you missing a spacer on each side???
Mine had 0.5mm slop each side. I added another .5 mm spacer on each hub. Solved.
I know with my Tekno MT/ manual, that the spacing of the hub can be changed to alter the wheel base ever so subtly by placing the spacers fore or aft as desired.
Note that placing all the spacers rearward of the hub, makes the Dogbone more angled to the Output cup. If that matters.
Placing all the spacers forward of the hub, will sometimes cause the dogbone to rub the Shock spring perches.
:cool:
Nope I have 1 large and 2 small on each side.
It's suppose to be like that on the fireteam. that the setup Arrma choose, it gives it that aggressive steering
Hmm manual shows the clips being 1 large in front 2 small in rear.

1671002675737.jpeg
 

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So you had no slop?
Yeah I got beat.
I had also notice that one Camber link screw and nut on the Left rear hub was screwed so tight that the cap head screw embedded/buried well into the Hub. Almost all the way through the hub.
I got that HH list going......
:LOL:

I watched a 10 month old Earl Moorehead FT video. He lost 2 chassis motor mount 3mm FH screws and the 3rd one was half way out, while he was on his maiden bash. No TL used apparently. He showed the 3rd remaining screw. Clean as a bone. Never any TL used on it. What happened to the tons Red TL Arrma always uses???? and that we always complain about. Should at least use Blue.
I checked mine and the same, no TL, they unscrewed so easily.. Screws were clean of any TL. None there.. I used some Blue 243 on them. Maybe you checked yours already???
 
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slick2500

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So you had no slop?
Yeah I got beat.
I had also notice that one Camber link screw and nut on the Left rear hub was screwed so tight that the cap head screw embedded/buried well into the Hub. Almost all the way through the hub.
I got that HH list going......
:LOL:

I watched a 10 month old Earl Moorehead FT video. He lost 2 chassis motor mount 3mm FH screws and the 3rd one was half way out, while he was on his maiden bash. No TL used apparently. He showed the 3rd remaining screw. Clean as a bone. Never any TL used on it. What happened to the tons Red TL Arrma always uses???? and that we always complain about. Should at least use Blue.
I checked mine and the same, no TL, they unscrewed so easily.. Screws were clean of any TL. None there.. I used some Blue 243 on them. Maybe you checked yours already???

No it's sloppier than a 90 year old Thai whore. That was how I noticed the damn gap.
My motor mount screws all had thread lock on them hell I had to use a poop ton of heat to get them out and ended up having to use a pair of pliers to grab my screw driver as I couldn't get enough torque to back them out., . So far the only thing I find that wasn't cakes in thread locker was the grub screw on the front SafeD cup. Literally didn't have any thread lock on it. I still should check the rear one. Oh and I finally got some Arrma rtr 6s shocks that didn't have thread lock on the damn shock caps.
 
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Yonic

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Hmm manual shows the clips being 1 large in front 2 small in rear.
I've learnt ot trust their product shots more than the manual regarding to setup settings.

Screenshot 2022-12-14 at 19.28.33.png
Screenshot 2022-12-14 at 19.34.38.png

So far the only thing I find that wasn't cakes in thread locker was the grub screw on the front SafeD cup. Literally didn't have any thread lock on it. I still should check the rear one.
I think they stopped using TL there since they moved to the plastic sleeve thingy
 

slick2500

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I've learnt ot trust their product shots more than the manual regarding to setup settings.

View attachment 262618 View attachment 262619

I think they stopped using TL there since they moved to the plastic sleeve thingy

I just noticed the thingy on the end was plastic, I thought it was metal for some reason, probably because it was shiny plastic instead of dull plastic like the other SafeD cups.

I do like these SafeD cup better than the ones that came off the take off diffs from Jennys or the ones that came on my Kraton 6s EXB. Looks they filannly figured out how to make a round hole in them as well.

Fireteam on the left Kraton or Jennys takeoff on the right.
1671040798033.jpeg


1671040874535.jpeg
 

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Yeah that Rear input cup on the left is specific and keyed for the FT Hand brake Disc, if I am correct. As long as it spins true is what matters.
You don't even need that Safe-D plastic collar to be honest. It wobbles, is out of round anyway. just use some TL Blue on the Grub screw.
:cool:
 
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