Outcast Slipper clutch broken in a month

[zizi8862]

So had my outcast 4s for about a month and only changed out rpm arms and a radio/transmitter. Was having a good time in the backyard then I started noticing the truck was driving a bit weird. Took a closer look and saw the rear wheels were not really driving. Took the truck apart and the rear slipper clutch arm has snapped right off. Would this be a warranty claim?

 

[Surchaufeur]

Yes it could call horizon and see what they can do. In my case mine cracked and made my slipper clutch loose no matter how much i tightened it. But it was when i was running a too tight slipper clutch and i landed on power too much times in a row
Is the bearing sezied up also? Upgrade to rubber sealed bearings in the clutch system

 

[jondilly1974]

Good luck. Those outside the USA don’t seem to get much help from their local distributors like us here in the USA seem to get. It’s worth a try, but that hub is an inexpensive piece anyways.

 

[VonJarga]

This freaking hub breaks on me every time I open it up to tighten or clean it. The little brass insert breaks when I tighten it. I wonder if a hub with stronger aluminum exists out there.

 

[PeighDay]

This freaking hub breaks on me every time I open it up to tighten or clean it. The little brass insert breaks when I tighten it. I wonder if a hub with stronger aluminum exists out there.

View attachment 137435

I have the exact same issue. I have done this now to 3 different hubs. Did you ever find a replacement. Getting tired of spending $17 on a piece of junk piece.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I have the exact same issue. I have done this now to 3 different hubs. Did you ever find a replacement. Getting tired of spending $17 on a piece of junk piece.

Put a bearing behind. Loosening a tiny bit the clutch can also help. I agree those things are not very durable

 

[PeighDay]

Put a bearing behind. Loosening a tiny bit the clutch can also help. I agree those things are not very durable

I wish I could. I am thinking of grinding down one side to make a bearing fit in it. I shimmed it a bit with a metal washer to make it a tighter fit but it still comes loose once I start driving. I took out the rear diff that I just rebuilt with a HR Yoke and it's working just fine. Not sure what I am doing wrong. I have the 57t metal spur gear paired with a 17 tooth robinson racing pinion. I had it working before and just that some teeth on one of the clutch plates were chipped. So I started the process of replacing it...now I can't get the darn thing to work.

I have tried tightening it just like the videos have shown where you put in a 2mm hex into the slipper clutch and roll the truck forward to tighten it. On the backside I have the plastic nut and it seems like it's holding it well. Once I start driving though the clutch slips almost immediately. I checked the mesh on the spur gear and it's working fine. Plugged in battery and gave it a rip to test it. I am ordering a whole new slip to see if I am doing something wrong.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I wish I could. I am thinking of grinding down one side to make a bearing fit in it. I shimmed it a bit with a metal washer to make it a tighter fit but it still comes loose once I start driving. I took out the rear diff that I just rebuilt with a HR Yoke and it's working just fine. Not sure what I am doing wrong. I have the 57t metal spur gear paired with a 17 tooth robinson racing pinion. I had it working before and just that some teeth on one of the clutch plates were chipped. So I started the process of replacing it...now I can't get the darn thing to work.

I have tried tightening it just like the videos have shown where you put in a 2mm hex into the slipper clutch and roll the truck forward to tighten it. On the backside I have the plastic nut and it seems like it's holding it well. Once I start driving though the clutch slips almost immediately. I checked the mesh on the spur gear and it's working fine. Plugged in battery and gave it a rip to test it. I am ordering a whole new slip to see if I am doing something wrong.

You can legit put a 10x15x4 when you close the motor module. I did that on my kraton 4s when the hub was cracked. Lasted me a few more months before it broke for good

 

[Kla912000]

I wish I could. I am thinking of grinding down one side to make a bearing fit in it. I shimmed it a bit with a metal washer to make it a tighter fit but it still comes loose once I start driving. I took out the rear diff that I just rebuilt with a HR Yoke and it's working just fine. Not sure what I am doing wrong. I have the 57t metal spur gear paired with a 17 tooth robinson racing pinion. I had it working before and just that some teeth on one of the clutch plates were chipped. So I started the process of replacing it...now I can't get the darn thing to work.

I have tried tightening it just like the videos have shown where you put in a 2mm hex into the slipper clutch and roll the truck forward to tighten it. On the backside I have the plastic nut and it seems like it's holding it well. Once I start driving though the clutch slips almost immediately. I checked the mesh on the spur gear and it's working fine. Plugged in battery and gave it a rip to test it. I am ordering a whole new slip to see if I am doing something wrong.

If you upgraded to the steel spur gear you MUST add a 4th slipper pad to the side with only 1 slipper pad or your slipper clutch will not tighten up properly because the steel spur gear is thinner than the composite spur gear. You need 2 slipper pads on each side of the steel spur gear, 4 slipper pads total. If you did not do this, that is the reason your slipper clutch won't tighten up properly.

 

[PeighDay]

If you upgraded to the steel spur gear you MUST add a 4th slipper pad to the side with only 1 slipper pad or your slipper clutch will not tighten up properly because the steel spur gear is thinner than the composite spur gear. You need 2 slipper pads on each side of the steel spur gear, 4 slipper pads total. If you did not do this, that is the reason your slipper clutch won't tighten up properly.

yeah I did add an additional slipper clutch pad to the side that originally only had 1.

You can legit put a 10x15x4 when you close the motor module. I did that on my kraton 4s when the hub was cracked. Lasted me a few more months before it broke for good

Sorry still new to the RC game. Still trying to figure out where to put that bearing. I don't see how it will close with that bearing added.

If you upgraded to the steel spur gear you MUST add a 4th slipper pad to the side with only 1 slipper pad or your slipper clutch will not tighten up properly because the steel spur gear is thinner than the composite spur gear. You need 2 slipper pads on each side of the steel spur gear, 4 slipper pads total. If you did not do this, that is the reason your slipper clutch won't tighten up properly.

Yeah I made sure to add an additional clutch slipper pad to the side that originally only had 1.

 

[PeighDay]

I don't think I am tightening it to tight but these things keeps breaking on me. I tried the method again of rolling the truck with the hex it. Still slips almost immediately after accelerating.

Any other ideas I should try? I wish HR made this piece for the slipper clutch. The design of it is horrible.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I don't think I am tightening it to tight but these things keeps breaking on me. I tried the method again of rolling the truck with the hex it. Still slips almost immediately after accelerating.

Any other ideas I should try? I wish HR made this piece for the slipper clutch. The design of it is horrible.

View attachment 211362

I only broke one the way you did. This issualy happens when you overtoghten the clutch. The clutch should never be over tightened. When you start to feel a lot of resistance back a turn and a half out. What people break is the rear slipper hub that connects to the rear diff. I overtightened mine and it snapped on me

 

[Kla912000]

I don't think I am tightening it to tight but these things keeps breaking on me. I tried the method again of rolling the truck with the hex it. Still slips almost immediately after accelerating.

Any other ideas I should try? I wish HR made this piece for the slipper clutch. The design of it is horrible.

View attachment 211362

If you are assembling it correctly and the slipper clutch is adjusted properly it should slip slightly on a full throttle launch before it moves as not to break any other parts or strip gears. If it slips an absurd amount then either it is not assembled right, it's too loose or something is broke or stripped like the slipper hub or adjusting screw.

How about posting a video of the slipper clutch "slipping immediately after acceleration."

 

[rjinaz]

If you are assembling it correctly and the slipper clutch is adjusted properly it should slip slightly on a full throttle launch before it moves as not to break any other parts or strip gears. If it slips an absurd amount then either it is not assembled right, it's too loose or something is broke or stripped like the slipper hub or adjusting screw.

How about posting a video of the slipper clutch "slipping immediately after acceleration."

I've also seen people not put in all 4 slipper pads. If you only put in two or three pads, the clutch will never fully lock up.

 

[PeighDay]

I only broke one the way you did. This issualy happens when you overtoghten the clutch. The clutch should never be over tightened. When you start to feel a lot of resistance back a turn and a half out. What people break is the rear slipper hub that connects to the rear diff. I overtightened mine and it snapped on me

If you are assembling it correctly and the slipper clutch is adjusted properly it should slip slightly on a full throttle launch before it moves as not to break any other parts or strip gears. If it slips an absurd amount then either it is not assembled right, it's too loose or something is broke or stripped like the slipper hub or adjusting screw.

How about posting a video of the slipper clutch "slipping immediately after acceleration."

Thank you for the help. I just got my replacement slipper clutch hub and made sure not to over tighten it. I took note like you and others have said and as soon as you feel it tighten stop. I put in the red part that connects the drive shaft and made sure it was tight but not to tight on both sides. I could see the slipper pads slipping still a little before I put it in. I then put in back into the granite and did the roll with the 2mm hex into the clutch. Put in a battery and thankfully no issues now. Like you said I can hear it slightly slip when I give it some good throttle which is exactly what I want. Still able to do wheelies in but don't feel like it's grinding the gears.

I 100% believe I was over tightening it. What I did do was place a small washer in the cup of the slipper clutch to take up some of the loose space. Seems to fit snug and hold better.

Thank you all again for the help.

 

[GRC]

I have never had a slipper housing crack like that. I keep my slipper 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns loosened.

Also, are you using loc-tite? Make sure no loc-tite leaks into the slipper housing. If you are using loc-tite, insert the screw, get a single turn in so that it fills the screw hole. Add loc-tite from the rear into the screw hole. That way you can make sure no loc-tite gets inside the slipper housing.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Why you are breaking these hubs is because you are Over tightening the screw. they don't break randomly. What 98% of people break is the rear hub that keys into the rear diff. To extent the life of that part you slide another bearing on the hub when everything is closed. Maybe im missing something

 

[PeighDay]

I have never had a slipper housing crack like that. I keep my slipper 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns loosened.

Also, are you using loc-tite? Make sure no loc-tite leaks into the slipper housing. If you are using loc-tite, insert the screw, get a single turn in so that it fills the screw hole. Add loc-tite from the rear into the screw hole. That way you can make sure no loc-tite gets inside the slipper housing.

Yeah take full responsibility of tightening to much. I got it fixed today after my 4th try. You live and learn.

Why you are breaking these hubs is because you are Over tightening the screw. they don't break randomly. What 98% of people break is the rear hub that keys into the rear diff. To extent the life of that part you slide another bearing on the hub when everything is closed. Maybe im missing somethingView attachment 211430

Yeah was definitely over tightening the screw and causing it to break the clutch hub.

I like that idea about the bearing. I will give that a try thank you.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Thank you for the help. I just got my replacement slipper clutch hub and made sure not to over tighten it. I took note like you and others have said and as soon as you feel it tighten stop. I put in the red part that connects the drive shaft and made sure it was tight but not to tight on both sides. I could see the slipper pads slipping still a little before I put it in. I then put in back into the granite and did the roll with the 2mm hex into the clutch. Put in a battery and thankfully no issues now. Like you said I can hear it slightly slip when I give it some good throttle which is exactly what I want. Still able to do wheelies in but don't feel like it's grinding the gears.

I 100% believe I was over tightening it. What I did do was place a small washer in the cup of the slipper clutch to take up some of the loose space. Seems to fit snug and hold better.

Thank you all again for the help.

View attachment 211397

View attachment 211398

That didnt help. Keep it factory and do not overtight the clutch

 

[PeighDay]

That didnt help. Keep it factory and do not overtight the clutch

roger that.