Big Rock Slipper clutch damaged not sure how to fix or replace... Noob?

[Daddytrex]

So my daughters big rock decided it didn't want to move forward or backwards while making an odd noise. I told her to stop once I heard it... but you know kids. She drove it balls out back to herself instead of stopping right where it stood. At first I thought the slipper was just loose so I tried to adjust it and still nothing... took her apart and came across this beautiful picture of plastic shavings all over the motor case. I thought these where metal like my K4S slipper...

Now I need to know how to take this apart to fix it. I didn't see to loosen or take apart. I am assuming it is one piece? Help please, she is devastated since she saw my new K6S v5 and wanted to go bashing this weekend with daddy.

 

[Edough13]

Check the bearings that hold the slipper, they may be toast and caused the spur to get eaten. Also check motor mount it could be bent. You will need either a new spur gear or a new slipper assembly unfortunately
Here is how to disassemble the slipper, this is the v2 version but it is the same on v3 there is just a nut on the end of the long adjustment screw

 

[Daddytrex]

Check the bearings that hold the slipper, they may be toast and caused the spur to get eaten. Also check motor mount it could be bent. You will need either a new spur gear or a new slipper assembly unfortunately

Bearing and mount are fine. Which is the spur gear and what is a slipper assembly? Is that the plastic piece that got shredded? Sorry I'm new to slipper clutch rigs.

 

[Edough13]

The shredded big plastic gear is your spur gear. The slipper assembly is pictured above it is the spur gear and slipper clutch and plates etc.

 

[Daddytrex]

The shredded big plastic gear is your spur gear. The slipper assembly is pictured above it is the spur gear and slipper clutch and plates etc.

Wait those thats not one piece? Makes sense now. But I don't see how you take them apart. Am I missing something. Thanks for the help

 

[Edough13]

To take it apart take off the bearing and the black plastic piece, then the red piece connecting your driveshaft to the slipper. You will need either a 1.5 or 2.0 mm hex to put into where the red piece was to get to the long adjustment screw
Loosen it up til it comes apart and vuala

 

[Daddytrex]

To take it apart take off the bearing and the black plastic piece, then the red piece connecting your driveshaft to the slipper. You will need either a 1.5 or 2.0 mm hex to put into where the red piece was to get to the long adjustment screw
Loosen it up til it comes apart and vuala

Thank you. I will do it tomorrow. How would I know if I need something else aside from the spur gear? How will I know if the slipper assembly has been compromised?

 

[BrokeBoiRc]

Thank you. I will do it tomorrow. How would I know if I need something else aside from the spur gear? How will I know if the slipper assembly has been compromised?

I would just recommend upgrading to a metal spur and just moving the slipper assembly from the plastic one to the metal one

 

[Edough13]

I would just recommend upgrading to a metal spur and just moving the slipper assembly from the plastic one to the metal one

I agree I switched to metal spur and no issues. But the slipper assembly is metal not plastic only thing plastic is the power module or gearbox for the slipper.

 

[Daddytrex]

I agree I switched to metal spur and no issues. But the slipper assembly is metal not plastic only thing plastic is the power module or gearbox for the slipper.

I think he meant move the slipper assembly from the plastic spur to the metal spur. I don't think he was trying to say there are other parts on there that are plastic. Does arrma make one? When I searched earlier all I found was Hot Racing. I know alot of parts are interchangeable, could I use one from a K4S?

 

[BrokeBoiRc]

I think he meant move the slipper assembly from the plastic spur to the metal spur. I don't think he was trying to say there are other parts on there that are plastic. Does arrma make one? When I searched earlier all I found was Hot Racing. I know alot of parts are interchangeable, could I use one from a K4S?

pretty sure arrma makes one aswell HR is like 28-29 dollars and the arrma one is like 32 i believe

 

[Paul777]

Also when you assemble the slipper be sure to use a good threadlock otherwise the slipper "self-adjusts" as front and back wheel can slip differently causing a turning force on the adjustment screw then you get erratic behaviour, and if it tightens down too much it can lead to damaging the u-cups on the driveshafts.

Have you checked the mesh of the teeth - hard to see wear from the angle of the photo, certainly there is some plastic there but aside fromthe sand they don't look too bad. The noise could just be that the slipper has come loose and needs the adjuster screw threads cleaning and reassembly with some threadlock.

 

[Edough13]

With the new v3 slipper you shouldn't have to use thread lock with the new nut on the end of the adjustment screw. Also if you change to the steel spur you will need to add another slipper pad to make up for the thickness of the stock plastic spur

. Here is the ARRMA steel spur part #

 

[Paul777]

Adding the new nut should help, has brass threads set into the plastic so just providing more thread so probably still needs to threadlock, but if you have a pre-2020 car then you will need to change the rear input gear as well to the new shorter shaft version to make space for the nut.

 

[Daddytrex]

Also when you assemble the slipper be sure to use a good threadlock otherwise the slipper "self-adjusts" as front and back wheel can slip differently causing a turning force on the adjustment screw then you get erratic behaviour, and if it tightens down too much it can lead to damaging the u-cups on the driveshafts.

Have you checked the mesh of the teeth - hard to see wear from the angle of the photo, certainly there is some plastic there but aside fromthe sand they don't look too bad. The noise could just be that the slipper has come loose and needs the adjuster screw threads cleaning and reassembly with some threadlock.

Also when you assemble the slipper be sure to use a good threadlock otherwise the slipper "self-adjusts" as front and back wheel can slip differently causing a turning force on the adjustment screw then you get erratic behaviour, and if it tightens down too much it can lead to damaging the u-cups on the driveshafts.

Have you checked the mesh of the teeth - hard to see wear from the angle of the photo, certainly there is some plastic there but aside fromthe sand they don't look too bad. The noise could just be that the slipper has come loose and needs the adjuster screw threads cleaning and reassembly with some threadlock.

I did check the slipper adjustment first but It wasn't grabbing. Thats when I knew something was wrong and took it apart. At first I thought it was a diff because I just ate through one myself on my K4S. I should of posted a better angle. Hopefully this helps. To me the teeth look shot, not as bad as my rear diff but you can see a couple of teeth cracked off more than the others.

 

[Paul777]

Looks like there may be a few low points there that could slip although I'd have thought it would still be possible to get a workable mesh with adjustment if you need to bash in a hurry, possible drop the power to 75% on the transmitter until it is replaced. When you get the new spur I'd check the meshing - the way it has clipped the tops off those teeth looks to me like the pinion might be sat slightly too far from the spur. I notice you have the adjustable motor plate so guessing this is the new model with the extra nut on the slipper already fitted.

 

[razorrc]

Make sure you add 3x6mm washers to the motor mount screws and loctite them. They were supposed to come with them, but the mfg plant missed that. Your motor screws probably backed out a little and allowed the motor to move.

 

[Cwhoward]

With the new v3 slipper you shouldn't have to use thread lock with the new nut on the end of the adjustment screw. Also if you change to the steel spur you will need to add another slipper pad to make up for the thickness of the stock plastic spurView attachment 112395. Here is the ARRMA steel spur part #

So you guys aren't having trouble with the steel spur gear on BRCC? Will the engine run hot?

 

[Edough13]

So you guys aren't having trouble with the steel spur gear on BRCC? Will the engine run hot?

Nope I have ran it in my Granite for over 6 months with no issue at all. The steel spur is no different than the plastic one they are both 57t so it can't make the motor run any hotter.

 

[Ruzty1311]

So you guys aren't having trouble with the steel spur gear on BRCC? Will the engine run hot?

Im running the steel spur on my Granite and Typhon. The only issues im having now are stripping input gears and snapping driveshafts lol But thats most likely not attributed to the steel spur. Best investment ever so far.

Oh and yes, I've made sure to adjust my slipper clutch right haha