Kraton Slipper clutch

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Stevenj76

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 4s
I’ve had my kraton since December and it’s been superb , just started to notice it was starting to get a little screechy under acceleration and was wheeling less and less so I’ve given it a little tighten and it wheelies again off the throttle , when does the slipper pads need replacing ?and when it’s done do I need the service kit or do I only need that if anything is faulty . Lastly if set correct should it wheelie from a stand still or once it’s free wheeling off throttle
 
4 or 6s? My 4s will do it from stand still and or while on throttle. Did 1 full turn from tight when I rebuilt it due to always coming loose.
 
There’s a fine line to tightening the slipper. Too loose and you’ll burn it up. To tight and you’ll pop u-joints. I made a video on how I now set mine.

 
Thanks jam , mines a 4s , but I’m pretty sure when new it never wheelied from a stand still only once it was rolling . And I’ve watched your video today Jon I used your method to tighten it , I’m not really interested in wheelies I just want it so like you said it won’t burn out and I get good take off . It was still taking off fine I could just tell it was getting noisier and wouldn’t wheelie very easily
 
Thanks jam , mines a 4s , but I’m pretty sure when new it never wheelied from a stand still only once it was rolling . And I’ve watched your video today Jon I used your method to tighten it , I’m not really interested in wheelies I just want it so like you said it won’t burn out and I get good take off . It was still taking off fine I could just tell it was getting noisier and wouldn’t wheelie very easily
I would check the thread lock and see if it is still in the rear hub. If it got hot it could have melted and spun out. If so, you might have to step up to orange or red TL.
 
Are they thread locked from the factory ? Surely this would be mentioned in the literature on slipper adjustments, I’m aware people including yourself are using some on the threads on the rear . I’ve done most of the servicing on the car lately . The only parts I’ve not looked at are the slipper and motor bearings , if I take the slipper apart is it only the pads I’ll need and what size are the motor bearings in this car , I’ve read that they are two different sizes and some say they are the same ?
 
Are they thread locked from the factory ? Surely this would be mentioned in the literature on slipper adjustments, I’m aware people including yourself are using some on the threads on the rear . I’ve done most of the servicing on the car lately . The only parts I’ve not looked at are the slipper and motor bearings , if I take the slipper apart is it only the pads I’ll need and what size are the motor bearings in this car , I’ve read that they are two different sizes and some say they are the same ?
Should have had blue TL from factory. Bad news is they usually put it on the screw before inserting it thru the front, which deposits some on the spring, making it lock in a compressed state. That’s why I add the TL thru the back only. Keeps the springs clean. If you disassemble it, make sure to clean all parts, including pads and springs with brake cleaner or IPA. If the pads are still intact, run them. I’ve never burned thru a set yet.
 
Sounds like yours is coming loose a lot like most have with our model. The issue is pretty well known based upon an internet search. You can tighten then it will go back to being way too loose. Mine was bad enough to where throttle response was affected as well. Time to tear down and rebuild if you havn’t yet from new. You got a lot more life the I did. Mine was bad in 4 runs. I get 3-4 runs in a week now and it’s been good ever since feb 1st. What punch setting are you on? I’ve kept mine on 3.
 
I’m on punch one and never felt like I’m missing much , I do think that these modern cars are possibly overpowered for what they can handle long term , I can see why people on max punch and max lipo the car can take end up popping stuff or melting diffs , I’ve just bought my lad a typhon 3s and I love it ! It’s lighter and more nimble it’s only on 2s to. We built a ramp the other day and the typhon can jump further that my kraton with less slap when it lands due to lighter weight .
 
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Nice! That will be my next arrma. Maybe 6s though. I bought my son a Senton 3s. I leave it on punch level 1 and it’s still crazy fun. Punch 3 is the sweet spot for me. Still controllable where I generally run. Plus as you said you you’ll get better part/ battery life running ten that way.
 
I’ve looked at the 6 line and the typhon would be my only choice the only thing putting me off is that they are a money pit compared to the 4 and 3s cars and money is not the object it’s just too much for the return I think . A typhon 3s with the 4s hubs but not longer arms would be my fav and run 3 s .
 
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