Granite So far pretty decent.
- Thread starter K4L4M1TY
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- Thread starter
- #22
This is the battery I have, I have to bend the power plug back over to get it in the gap and feeding out the routed hole but after removing the balance cable clear cover I have managed to get it in with the holder. It was tight enough when in without the holder but now I think i'm going to have a very hard time getting it back out.
Thumper01
Active Member
I've been running an older Venom 4000mah 20C lipo in my Voltage. It's the only lipo I have that fits. Arrma really needs to release an updated tray insert that allows easy use of the various types of 2s lipos. The truck runs much better on 2s lipo, IMO.
As for higher performance motors, I'd be a little leery about throwing too much power at this rig. I don't know that it can handle it without a slipper system. I don't think it was ever intended to be a super high performance RC vehicle.
As for higher performance motors, I'd be a little leery about throwing too much power at this rig. I don't know that it can handle it without a slipper system. I don't think it was ever intended to be a super high performance RC vehicle.
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- #24
Well 2s lipo + 25t pinion + 10 minutes =
Pretty disappointed to say the least. No warning label or info chart included about using higher tooth pinion like their other cars but I guess this is the same result, Shame really as I had put a lot of faith in ARRMA with this car running so well up until this point that I was considering getting my Kraton in the next week or two, now i'm not so sure.
Pretty disappointed to say the least. No warning label or info chart included about using higher tooth pinion like their other cars but I guess this is the same result, Shame really as I had put a lot of faith in ARRMA with this car running so well up until this point that I was considering getting my Kraton in the next week or two, now i'm not so sure.
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chevys10zr2003
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Keep in mind that the Kraton is in a completely different league than the Voltage series. The Voltage series is a beginner's class of vehicle and not built to be near as strong as their actual hobby grade vehicles, like the 1/8 cars.
Seriously the Voltage is about 25% of the cost of a Kraton, its obviously not going to be bulletproof. Heck, I've seen department store rc cars that are more expensive than the Voltage cars but they aren't nearly as fast and once you break something you can't replace it.
Seriously the Voltage is about 25% of the cost of a Kraton, its obviously not going to be bulletproof. Heck, I've seen department store rc cars that are more expensive than the Voltage cars but they aren't nearly as fast and once you break something you can't replace it.
Thumper01
Active Member
Yeah, the Voltage series is definitely aimed at first time RCers or those looking for an inexpensive/ budget-minded option. I think they are pretty good for that target. Think more along the lines of a Tamiya Grasshopper, Hornet or Blackfoot in performance, but with a modern RTR interpretation if you will.
K4L4M1TY: That stinks! That motor must have been SCORCHING hot. That just confirms what I had been thinking about this truck so far: it's probably best left in stock form with stock power and stock gearing. 20mph ( give or take) isn't fast by today's RC standards, but it seems like a good match for the design and intent of the Voltage series. To be honest, I've enjoyed driving the Granite Voltage just as much as my faster, more powerful brushless powered trucks.
K4L4M1TY: That stinks! That motor must have been SCORCHING hot. That just confirms what I had been thinking about this truck so far: it's probably best left in stock form with stock power and stock gearing. 20mph ( give or take) isn't fast by today's RC standards, but it seems like a good match for the design and intent of the Voltage series. To be honest, I've enjoyed driving the Granite Voltage just as much as my faster, more powerful brushless powered trucks.
- Thread starter
- #27
Yeah, apparently what it's designed to do is not what it's capable of. Never had this in any of my older cars even after modifications, all my voltage has is a 2s and 25t pinion, both supposedly capable of being used on it, definitely NOT! Shouldn't matter if it's $200 or $700, it should be well and truly capable of what it says on the box not physically melt from said use. If not it makes me wonder about the rest and here that's honestly grounds for a refund/warranty.
Edit: looks like the motor has given up also now. Just put the 16t back in it but noticed the motor shaft was excessively hard to turn, when powered back up it started to turn but then seized up, well it was good while it lasted, shame that was only about 5 runs in less than 2 weeks.
Edit: looks like the motor has given up also now. Just put the 16t back in it but noticed the motor shaft was excessively hard to turn, when powered back up it started to turn but then seized up, well it was good while it lasted, shame that was only about 5 runs in less than 2 weeks.
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Thumper01
Active Member
I agree. Arrma shouldn't advertise speed numbers or performance that's unattainable without negative consequences.
In this hobby, everyone drives their RC vehicles differently and in varied environments. One person's "toughest truck" could very well end up being another person's "durability nightmare" depending on circumstances.
But having said that, manufacturers need to make sure that claims that are made throughout their advertising are easily achieved without compromising the integrity of the product they're selling. It's not good business otherwise, IMO.
Based on the failures I'm seeing in the Voltage series, it seems like a couple of areas need to be addressed:
- these vehicles need some sort of a slipper system (too much strain is being absorbed by the diff outdrives, etc.)
- they need to revamp their battery tray insert to accept all types of lipos and maybe even 7 cell Nimh packs
- add a metal motor mount plate, or in the very least add some metal threaded inserts to absorb heat (as far as I can tell the entire chassis is ruined if motor mount screw holes melt and distort)
- publish the specs for the electronics, such as esc motor limits and voltage thresholds
- improve the servo saver design
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- #29
Agreed, too many little things that not even 10 runs in have now cost me more than I should have to be paying for, but now i'm going to need to pull apart most of the car just to replace the chassis, buy a new motor which all up will probably cost between $75-$100aud and that's just what I know of right now. I doubt that warranty will cover this even though there was no warning of this happening and I have had it for a couple of weeks now, though I think I will put in the claim since I have not used anything not made for the car. Once again it's disappointing to have this catastrophic failure so early into it's use and will probably now have to wait for a week or so due to the limited parts availability here in Australia.
Honestly it seems clear to me now that the plastic used in the construction of this model is simply not up to handling the performance claimed by Arrma and that leaves me a little worried about if the same is used in their other models. I had small issues early on that I overlooked simply because they had little effect on the use but this has really made me doubt all the reviews etc I have seen/read and considered to not be bias. The chassis melting is the last thing I would have expected to happen, even the spur and pinion still seem perfectly fine but having to now replace parts that require extensive dismantling is quite a pain. I don't understand how Arrma could not have known about this considering it took less than ten minutes for this to happen to me on dirt which I considered nowhere near as demanding as it should be capable of.
Thumper01
Active Member
Your grievance is justified, IMO. Maybe the easiest thing for Arrma to do going forward is to redesign the box art, lol. Remove the speed claims of 25+ mph. Also, maybe they might eliminate the 25t pinion holes from the motor mount. It would be cheaper than redesigning a new chassis and/or motor plate, and would also not mislead people into believing the truck is more capable then it actually is.
- Thread starter
- #31
Indeed, I absolutely agree with you. I doubt it was getting to 25+ mph anyway, it seemed fine on the 19t pinion no matter the surface it ran on, the first time I put the 25t in I could tell after 5 minutes it was getting way too hot. They should remove the 25t mount because honestly that seems too much for this car to handle. Just a shame I had to find out the hard way.
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- #33
Probably a safe idea.
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- #34
Awaiting a reply now as to the situation of warranty for this, will have to wait and see what ARRMA thinks about it. Not holding my breath though, thinking they are going to tell me it's my fault for not monitoring the temperature.
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- #35
Just contacted my hobby store about replacement parts if I am not covered by warranty and was told the chassis would be $40aud and that the motor is 'not available' which leaves me in the awkward position of not knowing how to resolve this if warranty doesn't cover the parts. Hopefully ARRMA will help me out as everyone i've spoken to about it has said.
Motors are all pretty standard, so long as you get a 540-sized. Grab a Dynamite or Traxxas 21t or 15t and get running again.
As for the chassis, hard to tell how bad it is in the pics, maybe could you just use washers to cover the holes? Heck, first time I opened my Granite 4x4 and saw the plastic motor mount, I added washers to the motor screws. Same for my ECX Torment. Plastic that needs to hold heavy stuff (like a motor) needs washers to spread the load.
As for the chassis, hard to tell how bad it is in the pics, maybe could you just use washers to cover the holes? Heck, first time I opened my Granite 4x4 and saw the plastic motor mount, I added washers to the motor screws. Same for my ECX Torment. Plastic that needs to hold heavy stuff (like a motor) needs washers to spread the load.
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- #37
Well I got my reply, kinda what I expected really:
Thank you for contacting ARRMA. We are sorry to see you have an issue with your Voltage model.
Our advice in the instruction manual (page 1) for the Voltage models is:
Check motor and ESC temperatures regularly, especially in hot climates. The maximum safe temperatures are:
70 degrees Celsius / 158 degree Fahrenheit for ESCs.
80 degrees Celsius / 176 degrees Fahrenheit for motors.
To cause the material of the chassis to melt the motor must have been well in excess of the maximum safe temperatures recommended in the manual, we estimate the temperature of the motor will have been in excess of 110 degrees Celsius.
We do not show a gearing chart for the Voltage models as they are intended to be run on the supplied gearing. We don’t list any different size pinions as being option parts.
As such this will not be covered under warranty, though it may be worth contacting the ARRMA distributor for your region to see if they will help you out as a gesture of goodwill.
Yes there are safe operating temps but they are for the motor and esc, not the chassis. I couldn't have cared less if the motor or esc died due to excessive heat as they are both parts expected to take the hit from the temps, not the chassis. But I epecially like the part about 'intended to be run on the supplied gearing. We don’t list any different size pinions as being option parts.' Actually they do, it's printed on the chassis. What other model uses this chassis that necessitates the printing of such intended pinions to be used? If it was 'intended' then there should not be those options on a chassis designed purely for this model/motor/esc combination. Well, my faith in arrma has been shattered so I don't think i'll be looking so much towards upgrading to one of their better models as what's to say the same shortcomings aren't to be found in their other models. Guess the ending to this story is 'so far(3 weeks in), very disappointed', disappointed that a company could put parts like the esc that they supposedly claim to have no information on specs wise etc. Disappointed that they didn't 'intend' for it to be used with other pinions though it was clearly printed into the chassis what sizes were compatible with mounting holes to suit. Disappointed that the supplied tool was pathetic and stripped out trying to take the first wheel off. Disappointed that I wasted my money on this model and now will have to waste 50% of the total cost just about to repair a problem that shouldn't have happened. As said, i'm very disappointed.
Thank you for contacting ARRMA. We are sorry to see you have an issue with your Voltage model.
Our advice in the instruction manual (page 1) for the Voltage models is:
Check motor and ESC temperatures regularly, especially in hot climates. The maximum safe temperatures are:
70 degrees Celsius / 158 degree Fahrenheit for ESCs.
80 degrees Celsius / 176 degrees Fahrenheit for motors.
To cause the material of the chassis to melt the motor must have been well in excess of the maximum safe temperatures recommended in the manual, we estimate the temperature of the motor will have been in excess of 110 degrees Celsius.
We do not show a gearing chart for the Voltage models as they are intended to be run on the supplied gearing. We don’t list any different size pinions as being option parts.
As such this will not be covered under warranty, though it may be worth contacting the ARRMA distributor for your region to see if they will help you out as a gesture of goodwill.
Yes there are safe operating temps but they are for the motor and esc, not the chassis. I couldn't have cared less if the motor or esc died due to excessive heat as they are both parts expected to take the hit from the temps, not the chassis. But I epecially like the part about 'intended to be run on the supplied gearing. We don’t list any different size pinions as being option parts.' Actually they do, it's printed on the chassis. What other model uses this chassis that necessitates the printing of such intended pinions to be used? If it was 'intended' then there should not be those options on a chassis designed purely for this model/motor/esc combination. Well, my faith in arrma has been shattered so I don't think i'll be looking so much towards upgrading to one of their better models as what's to say the same shortcomings aren't to be found in their other models. Guess the ending to this story is 'so far(3 weeks in), very disappointed', disappointed that a company could put parts like the esc that they supposedly claim to have no information on specs wise etc. Disappointed that they didn't 'intend' for it to be used with other pinions though it was clearly printed into the chassis what sizes were compatible with mounting holes to suit. Disappointed that the supplied tool was pathetic and stripped out trying to take the first wheel off. Disappointed that I wasted my money on this model and now will have to waste 50% of the total cost just about to repair a problem that shouldn't have happened. As said, i'm very disappointed.
chevys10zr2003
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I understand that you are upset and disappointed and I am really sorry that this happened to you, but unfortunately I totally agree with what they say. I would also expect ANY manufacturer to say the exact same thing if you overheat the motor to the point of melting the plastics. It is ALWAYS the operators job to watch temperatures, especially when you take it upon yourself to change gearing, or any other aspect of the vehicle.
Just because its printed on the chassis doesn't mean that its recommended as an upgrade/option pinion size. They may be working on another model utilizing that same chassis that DOES use that larger pinion size.
Again, I'm very sorry that this happened to you but you could do as they suggest and contact your distributor to see if they will cover the cost or get you the parts at reduced cost as a gesture of goodwill.
Just because its printed on the chassis doesn't mean that its recommended as an upgrade/option pinion size. They may be working on another model utilizing that same chassis that DOES use that larger pinion size.
Again, I'm very sorry that this happened to you but you could do as they suggest and contact your distributor to see if they will cover the cost or get you the parts at reduced cost as a gesture of goodwill.
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- #39
Am going to try a 15t today but I'm thinking it may cause more problems, especially considering we don't know if the esc can handle it and apparently arrma didn't get the specs from the manufacturer, though that's pretty odd to me. Why would would they use something they know nothing about?
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- #40
Well put a new motor in, old one is definitely broken. Now it just goes full throttle as soon as the battery is connected, controller inputs eg throttle trim, throttle, speed governor do nothing, esc on or off does nothing. Just wants to go to a certain amount of throttle and stay there now it seems. Guess the esc is burnt out too, so much for temperature cut-offs. Looks like i'll have to replace all the electrics. What a joke. Still trying to find the SRS setup button too, LUL. Glad I didn't get the Kraton now, especially after they showed me the new e-revo at my hobby store today, least I know I won't have to wait for parts to come from overseas because nobody stocks them or even lists their parts like I found with both the arrma motor and chassis i need to fix this joke.
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