Typhon So I’m thinking about turning my typhon into a speed run car. Tips?

[pa_fullsend]

So I want to modify my typhon a bit and I’m thinking about making it into a speed runner. I hit 64.8mph with it the way it is, and now I’m hooked and wanna go faster haha. It’s pretty much all stock besides a few hot racing upgrades. So first things first I need some nice on road tires. Suggestions? Grp? What compound for on my neighborhood streets. Should you upgrade the servo for speed runs? I wanna see what I can do with stock esc and motor for now so I’m gonna stick with that as of now. I’m gonna get some bigger pinions to try out. Already running a motor fan. Plus cold weather will help when gearing up. So Does anyone widen the stance a bit for speed runs? Any suggestions are appreciated thanks.

I’ve also got a nice 4s hardcase lipo id be willing to trade someone for good tires for this project. Thanks!

 

[Wraith405]

GRP belted tires are fantastic for speed runs, you probably want the C2 compound. You for sure want to make sure the ESC and motor have sufficient cooling sp upgrading the motor fan is a great idea. I know a lot of the speed run guys get the Yeah Racing Tornado fans for their ESC's as well.

As far as the servo goes, high torque is more important that speed for speed runs so the stock servo is generally okay up to a certain point. Sudden servo movements can make the car really unstable. So I usually dial down my steering dual rates. It depends on what remote you have. If you have the older Tactic remote or an aftermarket one, it's easy. If you have the new V4 Spektrum STX2, I'd suggest replacing it before doing speed runs. It has terrible range and throttle glitches are extremely dangerous at high speeds.

 

[pa_fullsend]

GRP belted tires are fantastic for speed runs, you probably want the C2 compound. You for sure want to make sure the ESC and motor have sufficient cooling sp upgrading the motor fan is a great idea. I know a lot of the speed run guys get the Yeah Racing Tornado fans for their ESC's as well.

As far as the servo goes, high torque is more important that speed for speed runs so the stock servo is generally okay up to a certain point. Sudden servo movements can make the car really unstable. So I usually dial down my steering dual rates. It depends on what remote you have. If you have the older Tactic remote or an aftermarket one, it's easy. If you have the new V4 Spektrum STX2, I'd suggest replacing it before doing speed runs. It has terrible range and throttle glitches are extremely dangerous at high speeds.

Okay awesome thanks! So the only grp belted tires I’m seeing on amain are S1. Is that to soft? Guess I’ll have to buy em elsewhere. I’ve got the yeah racing dual fans on the motor so I will definitely look into the tornado fan for the esc. I have the old tactic radio so that’s good. I do have a futaba 4pm I’ll be getting a surface receiver with avc for it eventually too.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I just took my Typhon to 93 mph this past week and it had more in it. (my tape on the body came off and the body went flying)
I assume you want to get up into that sort of speed range.

GRP S1 for winter If you look at the product code the GRP GTJ (J stands for hard wheel)
S3-S7 for summer months.

I have in mine 29T pinion and 34T on the spool. I highly recommend building the limitless spool from parts or picking one up from Jennys will be cheaper (but they are out of stock at the moment)

I made this video a while back on the spool

You will want to trim the rear wing down some to reduce drag.
The other thing would be to turn the droop screws to set the ride height low. You want some rake where the rear stands a little higher than the front. (this helps combat the front end lifting)
Also after all of that you will turn the pre-load adjustments way down to tighten the springs.

Last is thickening the front and rear diff fluid to keep one wheel from over spinning in a low traction scenario. I usually go with 1 million or similar. Some of my cars I put epoxy / jb weld in there, but then it is not serviceable in the case of damage.

As an alternative if you are serious about this stuff, I swapped the Limitless shocks and towers onto my Typhon.
100% stable at 90+mph with this setup. Probably can do 96 ish like my Kraton did.

 

[Rich8692]

All seem to be really good tips I would also start looking to add a cap pack and some 100c burst batteries

 

[LibertyMKiii]

All seem to be really good tips I would also start looking to add a cap pack and some 100c burst batteries

Agreed get the highest C rated batteries for the brand you decide to buy from.
I personally use Turnigy Graphene Panthers. They are Rated at 75c but this C rating is = to 100 - 150C from other brands.

Here is the Kraton run to 96mph for reference on the setup:

 

[Rich8692]

I'm still new to speed running my self but I'm sure changing diff fluids will also make an impact like creating the center spool I just switched my infraction over to 100k 200k 60k and it feels it has more punch and can corner much better so someone with diff fluid input would be nice.

 

[pa_fullsend]

I just took my Typhon to 93 mph this past week and it had more in it. (my tape on the body came off and the body went flying)
I assume you want to get up into that sort of speed range.

GRP S1 for winter If you look at the product code the GRP GTJ (J stands for hard wheel)
S3-S7 for summer months.

I have in mine 29T pinion and 34T on the spool. I highly recommend building the limitless spool from parts or picking one up from Jennys will be cheaper (but they are out of stock at the moment)

I made this video a while back on the spool

You will want to trim the rear wing down some to reduce drag.
The other thing would be to turn the droop screws to set the ride height low. You want some rake where the rear stands a little higher than the front. (this helps combat the front end lifting)
Also after all of that you will turn the pre-load adjustments way down to tighten the springs.

Last is thickening the front and rear diff fluid to keep one wheel from over spinning in a low traction scenario. I usually go with 1 million or similar. Some of my cars I put epoxy / jb weld in there, but then it is not serviceable in the case of damage.

As an alternative if you are serious about this stuff, I swapped the Limitless shocks and towers onto my Typhon.
100% stable at 90+mph with this setup. Probably can do 96 ish like my Kraton did.

View attachment 54655

Nice rig man! That’s awesome! Yeah I’d definitely like to get in that speed range! So how about dboot hoons For speed run tire? (I can get em amazon prime with a gift card I have) ? I won’t be in the 90+mph club over night so I don’t need the best speed run tire just yet. Thanks for all that great advice! I’ll definitely look into the spool and I have all the fluids to re do my diffs. Is there any advantage into widening the stance a bit? Using kraton hubs axles and hexes to push it out an inch. What servo do you run for speed stuff?

 

[Rich8692]

Nice rig man! That’s awesome! Yeah I’d definitely like to get in that speed range! So how about dboot hoons For speed run tire? (I can get em amazon prime with a gift card I have) ? I won’t be in the 90+mph club over night so I don’t need the best speed run tire just yet. Thanks for all that great advice! I’ll definitely look into the spool and I have all the fluids to re do my diffs. Is there any advantage into widening the stance a bit? Using kraton hubs axles and hexes to push it out an inch. What servo do you run for speed stuff?

The hoons arnt bad but wear out quickly but when they do wear they seem to get a little sticker I've ordered from this guy a few sets of grps and I have them fairly quickly in pa disregard the description it might say 2 but they ship 4 wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07G6Z16SZ/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_7?smid=A1GQDAFE4QGJK8&psc=1

 

[adidas303]

Okay awesome thanks! So the only grp belted tires I’m seeing on amain are S1. Is that to soft? Guess I’ll have to buy em elsewhere. I’ve got the yeah racing dual fans on the motor so I will definitely look into the tornado fan for the esc. I have the old tactic radio so that’s good. I do have a futaba 4pm I’ll be getting a surface receiver with avc for it eventually too.

Ebay has sellers that sometimes have a set of 4 of those GRP tires for around 35 - 40 bucks. Another decent brand to keep an eye on is Louise GT on road tires, usually find a set of 4 for around $50. Just a couple other options there!

Dboots are great for speed runs as well, just usually $60 bucks a pop for a set of four.

I'm still new to speed running my self but I'm sure changing diff fluids will also make an impact like creating the center spool I just switched my infraction over to 100k 200k 60k and it feels it has more punch and can corner much better so someone with diff fluid input would be nice.

Yea, exactly the stiffer fluid you put in the more locked those diff will be, ultimately sending the power to each of the wheels evenly. Even if one wheel happens to lose grip for a sec. The heavier diff oil in the front also allows for more 'on power' into the turn and out of the turn.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Nice rig man! That’s awesome! Yeah I’d definitely like to get in that speed range! So how about dboot hoons For speed run tire? (I can get em amazon prime with a gift card I have) ? I won’t be in the 90+mph club over night so I don’t need the best speed run tire just yet. Thanks for all that great advice! I’ll definitely look into the spool and I have all the fluids to re do my diffs. Is there any advantage into widening the stance a bit? Using kraton hubs axles and hexes to push it out an inch. What servo do you run for speed stuff?

I have no personal experience on the Hoons so I cannot say for sure. I like the GRPs for the fact that I can pick compounds based on the weather. Also the full set of 4 costing around 40.00 on eBay isn't bad at all....

Widening the stance would increase your aerodynamic area drag and slow your car down.
The advantage would be more stable in the turns. My cars don't take turns lol

For servo that Kraton was on the original. My Typhon has the DS3225 (Amazon). I am testing the Blue coreless and Red version so I don't have any solid advice there yet. Initial impressions are that the red might be better.

All of my testing on the Typhon translates over to parts ill use on the final test vehicle.
Build thread under my profile if you are interested in checking it out.

 

[GMballistic]

Few suggestions/ideas below @pa_fullsend .

Tyres: GRP (S3-S7 compound) ~ I use S3's
Centre diff: Remove completely replacing with a spool & spur gear (Arrma Limitless spool is your best option as @LibertyMKiii said).
Front & rear diffs: Heavier fluid in both front & rear ~ I use Core RC 100K weight in both.
Suspension: Stiffen standard springs using collar adjustment or replace for stiffer springs. Adjust ride height to lower (using droop screws & spring tension). Very important: Set a rake angle on the car with rear higher than front ~ install limiters to guarantee that the rear cannot go lower than the front. Heavier damper oil in shocks (see my thread for more info).
Decent battery: 6S "Turnigy Graphene Panther" 5000mAh or higher (NB; you will need to modify your battery tray to fit it comfortably as well as adjust your body shell height. If you don't want to do that then I'd recommend a 6S "Turnigy Nano-Tech Plus" 5000mAh which will fit without any modifications).

Click on my "Build Thread Contributor" banner or follow the link here for my Typhon build thread: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/speed-runner-typhon-6s-uk-built-fast-not-bought-fast.10482/

If you're going for speed runs seriously then I wouldn't waste money on changing the stock Arrma servo as it's good enough for what you need. It's what I use in my Typhon speed runner.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Then once you max out the BLX system you can go down the rabbit hole of bigger motors and ESCs.
(Castle ESCs and TP Power motors are the goto)

Also there is stretched chassis mod to fit longer motors

I really have fallen in love with the Typhon 6s

 

[GMballistic]

Then once you max out the BLX system you can go down the rabbit hole of bigger motors and ESCs.
I really have fallen in love with the Typhon 6s

Don't forget also mountains of different pinion/spur gears combinations and cap packs etc etc. It's so addictive and fun I love it. ?

The Typhon is an awesome buggy.

 

[pa_fullsend]

Few suggestions/ideas below @pa_fullsend .

Tyres: GRP (S3-S7 compound) ~ I use S3's
Centre diff: Remove completely replacing with a spool & spur gear (Arrma Limitless spool is your best option as @LibertyMKiii said).
Front & rear diffs: Heavier fluid in both front & rear ~ I use Core RC 100K weight in both.
Suspension: Stiffen standard springs using collar adjustment or replace for stiffer springs. Adjust ride height to lower (using droop screws & spring tension). Very important: Set a rake angle on the car with rear higher than front ~ install limiters to guarantee that the rear cannot go lower than the front. Heavier damper oil in shocks (see my thread for more info).
Decent battery: 6S "Turnigy Graphene Panther" 5000mAh or higher (NB; you will need to modify your battery tray to fit it comfortably as well as adjust your body shell height. If you don't want to do that then I'd recommend a 6S "Turnigy Nano-Tech Plus" 5000mAh which will fit without any modifications).

Click on my "Build Thread Contributor" banner or follow the link here for my Typhon build thread: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/speed-runner-typhon-6s-uk-built-fast-not-bought-fast.10482/

If you're going for speed runs seriously then I wouldn't waste money on changing the stock Arrma servo as it's good enough for what you need. It's what I use in my Typhon speed runner.
View attachment 54674

Wow that is some awesome advice I really appreciate all that. So what exactly is a limiter that’d I’d use to keep the rear above the front? That is one badas$ rig dude I love the color ??

 

[GMballistic]

Wow that is some awesome advice I really appreciate all that. So what exactly is a limiter that’d I’d use to keep the rear above the front? That is one badas$ rig dude I love the color ??

You're welcome and my Typhon has been a labour of love since I bought it specifically for doing speed runs with.

Firstly just so you're clear as to why the rake angle, rear higher than front, is important. It's because under acceleration the rear end will squat down. If the rear end can go lower than the front end then there is a danger that air can/will get under the front causing it to go light or possibly even causing it to flip.

You can buy shock limiters (RPM brand etc) or my preferred method that I used was just to simply make my own from some 4/6th inch diameter silicone rubber type hose. The limiter being silicone rubber rather than a hard plastic or similar will help as well because they will absorb/cushion some of the shock if it does bottom out on the limiters.

It's an easy worthwhile mod to do imho.

FYI when it comes to taking apart the shock: It's important not to damage (bend or score) the shock shaft so I used a thin piece of folded over card board (cereal box) wrapped around the shock shaft and then gripped the shock shaft very tightly with "bull nose" pliers whilst turning off the bottom plastic eyelet by hand. It easily unscrews.
Getting the length of silicone pipe does take some trial and error but it's easy enough to guesstimate for starters I found.

 

[jondilly1974]

So I want to modify my typhon a bit and I’m thinking about making it into a speed runner. I hit 64.8mph with it the way it is, and now I’m hooked and wanna go faster haha. It’s pretty much all stock besides a few hot racing upgrades. So first things first I need some nice on road tires. Suggestions? Grp? What compound for on my neighborhood streets. Should you upgrade the servo for speed runs? I wanna see what I can do with stock esc and motor for now so I’m gonna stick with that as of now. I’m gonna get some bigger pinions to try out. Already running a motor fan. Plus cold weather will help when gearing up. So Does anyone widen the stance a bit for speed runs? Any suggestions are appreciated thanks.

I’ve also got a nice 4s hardcase lipo id be willing to trade someone for good tires for this project. Thanks!

GRPs for sure. S1 for winter so it sticks better. S5 or S7 for summer.

You don’t need a fast or powerful servo for speed runs. You’ll actually turn down the steering.

Never widen a speed runner. You want long and narrow chassis to keep it going straight. A wide chassis gets squirrelly faster.

 

[pa_fullsend]

You're welcome and my Typhon has been a labour of love since I bought it specifically for doing speed runs with.

Firstly just so you're clear as to why the rake angle, rear higher than front, is important. It's because under acceleration the rear end will squat down. If the rear end can go lower than the front end then there is a danger that air can/will get under the front causing it to go light or possibly even causing it to flip.

You can buy shock limiters (RPM brand etc) or my preferred method that I used was just to simply make my own from some 4/6th inch diameter silicone rubber type hose. The limiter being silicone rubber rather than a hard plastic or similar will help as well because they will absorb/cushion some of the shock if it does bottom out on the limiters.

View attachment 54708

It's an easy worthwhile mod to do imho.

FYI when it comes to taking apart the shock: It's important not to damage (bend or score) the shock shaft so I used a thin piece of folded over card board (cereal box) wrapped around the shock shaft and then gripped the shock shaft very tightly with "bull nose" pliers whilst turning off the bottom plastic eyelet by hand. It easily unscrews.
Getting the length of silicone pipe does take some trial and error but it's easy enough to guesstimate for starters I found.

Yeah it is one sick machine man I hope mines half as nice one of these days haha. Okay so I understand the importance of keeping the rear end above the front. Makes sense not to widen. Now can you lower ride height by placing the shocks in the lower holes of the tower. Or leave them at the top and just back off on droop screws? Also how did you get your springs black? Powder coat or something cause that looks so much better than plan stainless steel

 

[Dutch213]

make sure you have a $hit ton of money to throw at it...

 

[GMballistic]

Now can you lower ride height by placing the shocks in the lower holes of the tower. Or leave them at the top and just back off on droop screws? Also how did you get your springs black? Powder coat or something cause that looks so much better than plan stainless steel

Really your ride height is predominantly set using the droops screws (grub screws located in the wishbone/A-arms) but moving the shock positions as well as spring collar adjustment does have some effect.

My springs are "Hot Racing" upgrade springs designed for the Arrma Nero. Can't remember exactly but they're like 4x stiffer than the standard springs Typhon springs.
Spec here: https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=NRO6509;c=1019

Some info here on suspension set up: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/stiffer-shock-springs-limiters-etc-for-speed-runs.11318/

I know it's a long read but literally every single thing I did is in my build thread but I'm more than happy to keep chipping in on this thread if you have anymore questions etc.