Kraton Soaking plastics in wd40

[Droste78]

Well I believe the flashpoint of Delrin is somewhere the neighborhood of 600°F so I don’t know of anything that gets anywhere near that Hot in any of these RC models but I could be wrong

Very true unless the whole car goes up in flames ?

 

[RC X]

Flexing like bubble gum is not the goal. I would assume that even hard core bashers appreciate rigidity in suspension components. Aside from superior handling and drivability, why bother with caster/camber and toe angles etc if stuffs going to be flexing like bubble gum on hard turns and acceleration?

 

[Droste78]

Flexing like bubble gum is not the goal. I would assume that even hard core bashers appreciate rigidity in suspension components. Aside from superior handling and drivability, why bother with caster/camber and toe angles etc if stuffs going to be flexing like bubble gum on hard turns and acceleration?

I know the description sounds like bubble gum, but it is stiff and but will flex and never saw it snap

 

[RC X]

So again, I watched the test. WD 40 will not penetrate any or the nylons. So we know nylon is rather chemical resistant to the hydrocarbons in WD 40. And they’re all nylon by the way...

But getting back to the test itself. Don’t be impressed by how much the arms can flex and bend and twist without breaking. In my mind that’s not a good thing. If those pieces are bending imagine what it’s doing to other components down the line be at turnbuckles, driveshafts, rod ends, the shocks... steering links etc. those parts will give way too, so not only will you be left with a deformed control arm which will be pretzeled, other components will likely need replacing as well.
As far as nylon alloys go—and I don’t know what RPM claims to be using—but the strongest nylon of them all nylon 6,6 really isn’t rigid enough. Delrin would certainly make for a better option in probably all regards TBH.

I guess what I’m saying is that for the *price* people are paying, they should be expecting better... No scratch that, they should be *getting* better.

Right now 6061 or 7075 aluminum seems to be the way to go.

 

[RC X]

So, I did more research. . . Anyone interested in the absolute most durable (strongest) configuration for end-links/ball ends/heims ends/rod ends etc can probably pair a nice set of GRADE 5 Titanium with some of the stainless steel ends found here:

Stainless Steel

More. . .

Hope those links will be of value.

The next ultimate option would be to find grade 5 Titanium instead of the stainless if only for the weight. Just remember, even off-road buggies require their *suspensions* to work properly. The suspension will not be functioning properly with the crappy Nylon options that exist–even RPM.

For the price, the RPM stuff should be 5 pairs at a pop minimum and they'd still be making a killing on the markup. flexible arms mean something else in the system will pretzel next.

I could see if RPM was offering *real* Delrin (homopolymer) options for true "winter"(i.e., doesn't absorb water) bashing (and anytime bashing really), but they aren't, and it's a shame. The first company that starts offering Delrin options (if there isn't on already) is going to make a killing since it will be far superior to the other plastic (Nylon) options currently available. In other words, Delrin should be the STARTING/ENTRY point and then aluminum, stainless titanium as upgrades.


Nylon should be erased from RC at this point IMNSHO.

There are other plastics that are even stronger than Delrin, but *cost* might be a factor with those.

 

[kjpull]

Kevin Talbot on his YouTube channel says and does this all the time. By his practice they break less frequently when soaked in WD40. I as well spray my rigs down with WD 40 every 3-4 runs. Only thing I broke in last 2 months was a shock rod end.

I do this all the time, I live where it gets very cold -30+ Celsius. when I did not do it spray them, I broke the suspension arms with in 20 minutes of driving(4 to be exact), I spray down all the plastic (I don't soak them) and let it sit over night (24 hours) then run the car again and then soak it down again and do this after every run (every run) and have not broken any arms since. I would say it works whether it has been proved scientifically or not, it works. I am old school (believe me when I say old and thought the same that it would weaken/deteriorate the plastics or wreck them). Some of the older rc'ers should get out of the box and try something new, even if on an older RC, give it a whirl, you may be surprised. I use Muc Off instead of WD but WD is pretty similar in what it is made of. For those thinking you need to spray a baggie full, you can buy a non aerosol container of WD and just pour it in the bag for soaking. Hope this helps.

 

[M240i_bandit]

I do this all the time, I live where it gets very cold -30+ Celsius. when I did not do it spray them, I broke the suspension arms with in 20 minutes of driving(4 to be exact), I spray down all the plastic (I don't soak them) and let it sit over night (24 hours) then run the car again and then soak it down again and do this after every run (every run) and have not broken any arms since. I would say it works whether it has been proved scientifically or not, it works. I am old school (believe me when I say old and thought the same that it would weaken/deteriorate the plastics or wreck them). Some of the older rc'ers should get out of the box and try something new, even if on an older RC, give it a whirl, you may be surprised. I use Muc Off instead of WD but WD is pretty similar in what it is made of. For those thinking you need to spray a baggie full, you can buy a non aerosol container of WD and just pour it in the bag for soaking. Hope this helps.

Have you had any issues with WD destroying tyres/rubber? Just wondering if I have to be careful not to get any on the wheels & tyres

 

[Dscracing1320]

Have you had any issues with WD destroying tyres/rubber? Just wondering if I have to be careful not to get any on the wheels & tyres

Yes. Never get it on the tires. They will become "to loose" ie. To stretchy, will expand to much and driving quality will be greatly reduced.
Soaking factory arms works amazingly. But on rpm arms they become to flexible and u start bending axles. And when running high spring rates will not allow the suspension to work properly because of the arms bending under load. I haven't had those issues with the factory soaked 6s and exb arms.

 

[Popokesmoke]

Never use WD-40 Silicone spray is best.

 

[M240i_bandit]

Never use WD-40 Silicone spray is best.

Yeah I've read a lot of posts about how bad wd40 is - so I've got some silicone spray which I used yesterday, now the issue I have is that the silicone spray doesn't stop the screw heads from rusting after cleaning like the wd40 does, probably because it doesn't displace water

But what's the solution here? I only see the option of still using wd40 but just keeping it away from the bearings as that seems to be the only issue with it

 

[Dscracing1320]

Yeah I've read a lot of posts about how bad wd40 is - so I've got some silicone spray which I used yesterday, now the issue I have is that the silicone spray doesn't stop the screw heads from rusting after cleaning like the wd40 does, probably because it doesn't displace water

But what's the solution here? I only see the option of still using wd40 but just keeping it away from the bearings as that seems to be the only issue with it

I've been using it for as long as I can remember 20+ years and never had a issue with it. I buy it buy the gallon. I stay away from tires and certain arms like rpm that get to soft with wd. I maintain my bearings regularly. I'll never stop using it.

 

[M240i_bandit]

I've been using it for as long as I can remember 20+ years and never had a issue with it. I buy it buy the gallon. I stay away from tires and certain arms like rpm that get to soft with wd. I maintain my bearings regularly. I'll never stop using it.

Good to know - I can't see the harm if you're only using it on metal and keeping it away from bearings, rather that than rusty screws getting stuck

Is there a way of knowing which plastics will soften? Traxxas a arms seem fine as I've used it on those before - not sure about the stock arrma stuff?

 

[Dscracing1320]

Good to know - I can't see the harm if you're only using it on metal and keeping it away from bearings, rather that than rusty screws getting stuck

Is there a way of knowing which plastics will soften? Traxxas a arms seem fine as I've used it on those before - not sure about the stock arrma stuff?

Exactly! And so far the only arms I've had thats gotten to soft / "to much flex" has been the rpm arms. The stock Arrma and traxxas arms I always soak and had nothing but good results.

 

[IWANTBLUE]

Agreed. I like the East Tactics YT channel quite a lot, but this experiment made me cringe so much I couldn't watch it until the end. I certainly appreciate the effort, but it is not a proof of anything.

The real solution for improved plastics in RC applications would be to have manufacturers hire material engineers to optimize their plastic composition to achieve specific mechanical properties. Meanwhile, if you think soaking your plastic parts in WD-40 improves their durability, go ahead and soak away.

Haven't seen the vid yet, but the manufacturers have already "hire'd material engineers to optimize their plastic composition to achieve specific mechanical properties.", and they've given you a material that is quite good, but will break whenever pushed beyond an agreed set limit that has been deemed 'reasonable', in a lowest common denominator kind of way it's the way things are done, unfortunately, built-in obsolescence. Manufacturers keep us 'Happy' with upgrades like EXB and or new models with increased strength etc, but not ultimate strength because it's not in their interests to wipe out the Premium hop-up specialists like RPM and M2C Racing, HR, etc.etc.as they both innovate and generate interest in the hobby, but rest assured the economies of scale means they could easily create equivalent parts more cheaply, but for every M2cRacing etc part sold, how many std. items are sold

Edit: shoulda read through an old thread to the end "@RC X" already covered my point LOL

 

[SentFlying]

I use wd40 as well. All ways continue to. Heres my lates break. This was just a spray before I head out as always. The steering link snapped upon 30ft landing. Totally my fault as it was a send I knew should of been avoided as I could not keep a straight line to the ramp. Hit the ramp all weird wobbled in the air and landed passenger front in 8in dead grass. Also snapped the stock hinge pin and sheered the screws off in the HR Bulkhead. The link rod ends are OC v2 stock. The send that shoulda never been... Had no air control as I had turned the punch pretty much off to work on air control without the punch. Lots of upgrades to come

 

[M240i_bandit]

Good to know! Just took a look at the exb again and found rust in all the underside screws again after cleaning her last night sorted the topside screws last night but didn't check the bottom

Definitely switching back to a wd40 coat post cleaning...

The bearings are sealed anyway aren't they? Either way I'd rather replace a few bearings now and again than have whole thing fused together with rust

 

[WickedFog]

I am in no way a chemist. But I have used WD40 for years on RC cars with no adverse effects that I have ever seen. I have however noticed any car that has ran in water has rusted bearings, screws, etc, unless I have doused them with WD40 after cleaning. Our RC car chassis are mostly ABS with metal components thrown in.

You can buy plastic bottles sold by the makers of WD40 for use when you buy WD40 in bulk (metal cans and 55 gallon drums). These bottles are HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene). We used these in the machining world for years. And I don't recall ever seeing one of these bottles melt or change properties after filling with WD40 and using for years afterward. HDPE and ABS are both thermoplastics. While HDPE and ABS have different chemical properties, which I cannot comment on, their physical properties are very, very similar.

Another thing to consider is the plastics under the hood of your car are the same ABS in most instances that we have in the RC world. And the following is an excerpt copied directly from WD40's Aussie site...

"Got some plastic parts on your car that could do with a clean and polish? Maybe you’re looking to spritz up some garden furniture before the summer barbeque season hits but are not sure how to tackle those dirty, weather-stained chairs or car parts.

No problem. If you’ve got a can of WD-40 Multi-Use Product in the garage, your plastic-cleaning problems are solved. Simply spray onto the area you want to clean and scrub a little with a rag until the plastic surface looks clean. As an added bonus, you can also use WD-40 to polish plastic surfaces on your car. Whether they’re a black or chrome finish, they’ll look as shiny as they did in the showroom.

WD-40 Multi-use product is great for most plastic surfaces that have had a lot of outdoor exposure, so it’s fantastic for garden furniture. Simply spray, scrub and polish for garden chairs and tables that will brighten up any outdoor occasion.

It’s important to note that Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the very few surfaces on which to avoid using WD-40 Multi-Use Product."

Note the last paragraph, and note the "clear" part of the comment (think scale model car windshields). I have often seen Polystyrene and ABS thrown around in comments as if they are the same thing. But they are definitely not. So keep it off your clear bodies. Everything else is fair game. Douse away!

 

[Dscracing1320]

The negatives I've ran across are the arms become to flexible it causes bent axles and don't allow the shocks to work properly due to the unwanted flex. Also if you get wd40 on the tires they become way to loose. Meaning they expand and balloon way to much.

 

[WickedFog]

Also if you get wd40 on the tires they become way to loose. Meaning they expand and balloon way to much.

Yeah, you definitely don't want to get any oils on your tires. But I have never noticed any additional flex in the arms or any other parts. I don't normally get my cars wet, so it isn't often I have to give things a shot of WD40. But if you notice your plastic starting to look dried out, the WD40 will definitely make it look nice again.

 

[Crunchy Gears]

Ok I've read through 4 pages of science papers and I still didn't find a solid answer @__@

So what the consensus guys? Does boiling make rc plastic more bendy? I got a new wing mount coming for my Notorious and am gonna try boiling it before I slap it on if it'll help.