Soldering issues.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bAdNeWs-89

Fairly New Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
14
Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
Hi guys really puzzled here....... im trying to solder a few things for my car esc,connectors etc. But im having no luck. I previously had a gas iron witched didnt touch it so i brought a 300w industrial iron but still not having any joy the solder sorts of melts but isn't coating all the cable and what it does cover It leaves it horrible.not sure what if its different solder or iron I need but any help would be grateful. Thanks
 
There’s a lot of videos on soldering to help out. https://www.google.com/search?q=sol...BHZDqDNYQ_AUoA3oECAwQAw&biw=1024&bih=643#ip=1 Main problems is a dirty or old tip. Once the tip is not shiny it is not going to put out the heat where it needs to be. Second is using flux. Little bit on the wire and where you are soldering it to. You can also try tinning the wires or connector fist with solder than heating the pieces together. There will be 100 different options on how to solder connectors, you will need to find a way that works for you. Watch some videos, practice on some old connectors and wires before you mess up your battery cables or esc...
 
There’s a lot of videos on soldering to help out. https://www.google.com/search?q=sol...BHZDqDNYQ_AUoA3oECAwQAw&biw=1024&bih=643#ip=1 Main problems is a dirty or old tip. Once the tip is not shiny it is not going to put out the heat where it needs to be. Second is using flux. Little bit on the wire and where you are soldering it to. You can also try tinning the wires or connector fist with solder than heating the pieces together. There will be 100 different options on how to solder connectors, you will need to find a way that works for you. Watch some videos, practice on some old connectors and wires before you mess up your battery cables or esc...
Its a brand new iron dude with a big chisel head And i know a little bit about soldering or i though i did lol. Normally i would coat both cables and then lock the too together. But its like the solder doesn't want to attach its self to the cable. Both cable and iron are clean.
 
Maybe some pictures of your work? You should always tin wires where applicable. You should have a proper tin on the iron tip as well (described as shiny above in @Jimbobjr post). Heat is the major catalyst. Working with the thick gauge wires I tin my iron with a little more than usual (a blob if you will) and apply heat on one side of the wire. Then I add the solder from the other side to get a good flow and reduce cold connections.

You will also most likely want some mechanical helpers of some kind. Wires will get hot and are not usually able to be held by human hands.
 
Its a brand new iron dude with a big chisel head And i know a little bit about soldering or i though i did lol. Normally i would coat both cables and then lock the too together. But its like the solder doesn't want to attach its self to the cable. Both cable and iron are clean.
Sorry I’ll just keep my mouth shut next time...
 
Maybe some pictures of your work? You should always tin wires where applicable. You should have a proper tin on the iron tip as well (described as shiny above in @Jimbobjr post). Heat is the major catalyst. Working with the thick gauge wires I tin my iron with a little more than usual (a blob if you will) and apply heat on one side of the wire. Then I add the solder from the other side to get a good flow and reduce cold connections.

You will also most likely want some mechanical helpers of some kind. Wires will get hot and are not usually able to be held by human hands.
theres some pics. The iron has got a grove in it where the cable Has been resting its as if it has melted ?‍♂️?‍♂️ ive got some
Home made helpers witch seem todo the job and holds things together great. I just don't want to hold the iron on things for to long and course damage to my parts.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    173.8 KB · Views: 98
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    167.3 KB · Views: 99
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    179.2 KB · Views: 90
Sounds like you are maybe using the wrong type of solder or maybe not using any flux which would cause it to blob and not flow and be absorbed into the wire. Without flux keeping the oxygen away the heat will oxidise the wire and connector which stops it from being coated.
Make sure you are using 60/40 rosin core solder and also have some additional flux (rosin or other) Watch a few videos on procedure and you should be good to go.
 
Sounds like you are maybe using the wrong type of solder or maybe not using any flux which would cause it to blob and not flow and be absorbed into the wire. Without flux keeping the oxygen away the heat will oxidise the wire and connector which stops it from being coated.
Make sure you are using 60/40 rosin core solder and also have some additional flux (rosin or other) Watch a few videos on procedure and you should be good to go.
Ive just been using some solder i had in my work shop but will try what you have recommended and hopefully that will sort it. Thanks for the help.
 
I would get a new tip. If it broke down just by "soldering"; something is wrong. Maybe a defect or something. I have never had a tip do that before.

In your picture I would heat the bottom wire to get the solder flowing again and then heat the top wire and place it on the bottom and then heat them together until I can get solder to flow over the connection. Sometimes adding a little solder to the point where the tip touches the wires can assist heat transfer. A little. You don't want to flow solder from the tip on the wire as it can result in a cold joint.
 
Just saw your pics. Your tip has no solder on it at all. If I was to guess I'd say your solder contains no flux and you also arent using flux from an external source. Its a necessity.

Also... it doesn't look like you have been able to get much heat transfer. Without a 'wet' tip and without flux you will really struggle to get good heat transfer into the joint.
 
Ive just been using some solder i had in my work shop but will try what you have recommended and hopefully that will sort it. Thanks for the help.
ok is it possible to get a link for the correct solder and flux please to make sure its the right stuff thanks
Just saw your pics. Your tip has no solder on it at all. If I was to guess I'd say your solder contains no flux and you also arent using flux from an external source. Its a necessity.

Also... it doesn't look like you have been able to get much heat transfer. Without a 'wet' tip and without flux you will really struggle to get good heat transfer into the joint.
Could you please attach a link for the right solder and flux please so i know im getting the right stuff thanks.
Sorry I’ll just keep my mouth shut next time...
No need to be like that mate lol. I Appreciate your time,help and knowledge.
 
Last edited:
I'm from the UK so don't really know where you would best buy it from in the US.
I like Kester 6040 ( Also known as Sn60/Pb40) Rosin core solder, very good stuff. I'd probably go for a solder wire diameter of around 1.5mm for that kind of job.

Also get a little additional Rosin flux.
 
I'm from the UK so don't really know where you would best buy it from in the US.
I like Kester 6040 ( Also known as Sn60/Pb40) Rosin core solder, very good stuff. I'd probably go for a solder wire diameter of around 1.5mm for that kind of job.

Also get a little additional Rosin flux.
Im from the UK to buddy ?? Thanks for the help i shall look in to it. ????
 
Hi guys really puzzled here....... im trying to solder a few things for my car esc,connectors etc. But im having no luck. I previously had a gas iron witched didnt touch it so i brought a 300w industrial iron but still not having any joy the solder sorts of melts but isn't coating all the cable and what it does cover It leaves it horrible.not sure what if its different solder or iron I need but any help would be grateful. Thanks


Practice on some other wire you care nothing about first.... If it turns out your not competent to get the job done, go pay a guy.

Just some advise, when you ask a question because YOU need the help and then :poop: on someone's answer regardless of apologizing or then showing appreciation, people remember that.
 
Practice on some other wire you care nothing about first.... If it turns out your not competent to get the job done, go pay a guy.

Just some advise, when you ask a question because YOU need the help and then :poop: on someone's answer regardless of apologizing or then showing appreciation, people remember that.
I wasn’t being ? on anyones answer Or disrespecting anyones advice I appreciate everyones answers and i reply the best i can to get that little bit more of a helping hand i need. I was just mentioning the items i have and the condition they are in i didnt mean to offend anyone im not that sort of person.
 
Actually @Jimbobjr was 100% right but was probably misinterpreted.
All your items are 'dirty' even if they look shiny. Dirt, for soldering, is the thin oxidation layer on copper, invisible to the eye besides any obvious crud.

Your entire setup will work if you do the next couple steps.

Your tip is shiny copper which is the worst heat conductor due to oxidation - you must 'tin' the entire tip for soldering. (Entire tip or large area used to solder needs to be 'silver'.
Most likely you will need flux to remove the oxidation, some tin has flux build into it.
Keep it clean with a wet sponge when its hot. It will dirty up quickly with all kinds of crud, wipe off with a wet sponge/tissue.

Copper wire- again you are fighting oxidation, flux required. Heat will not transfer otherwise.

Careful - only use as much flux as needed, too much will cause issues later on. Clean up the solder-joint if there is any residue.
Do NOT ever use flux on electronics only on wires. Use special solder with a resin core for electronics but you don't want to do those with a 300W iron anyway. Even the resin core stuff has longterm issues, more education required.

All flux will turn acidic and cause corrosion.

 
Last edited:
I had trouble with soldering and was scrapping a lot of connector plugs before I started using TIN/LEAD 60/40 rosin core solder

If you think your technique is good and your iron is at the right temperature, try a different solder. I got this one from eBay and it worked wonders when compared to the sh*tty lead-free stuff from Amazon

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132711859771
 
For wires etc use the TIN/LEAD 60/40 rosin core as per @Yas.
I do use very little flux on these big wires but only if it doesn't work on the first attempt.
Flux is evil but has it's uses, just keep it away from electronics or they will fail within 6-12 month.

The lead free needs a higher temperature to melt and doesn't 'grab' as easily. Just wash your hands and don't eat while soldering ;)
Nothing to worry about unless you solder all day long for years.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top