Soldering large connectors?

[Jerold]

When it comes to soldering I'm 100% OK with it, but struggling a bit with the large (8 AWG) wires to make it look pretty. The connections are solid in the end but they could be better. So I'm wondering if it's just experience with large wires and or if I'm using the right tools?

My station is a Hakko FX-888D (65W). It works well even on 10 AWG wires. My standard tip is a 3.2mm chisel tip which I swapped to 5.2mm chisel tip for the bigger stuff. It works OK for 8 AWG but it's hard to keep the connect/tab hot and the wire too. So I ordered a 5mm bevel tip in hopes to transfer more heat faster with more surface area.

Another thought is to use a torch. I have Propane, Mapp and Oxy/Mapp options. The nozzles I have are for general use braising materials. Anything Mapp might be a bit overkill?

So here are the questions

• What tip do you use for the big wires?
• Do I need more wattage to make easier?
• Thoughts about a torch (butane, propane, etc) and do I need a special nozzle? Has anyone tried this?

I will probably experiment with the torch on the bullets, but I'm a bit leery of using is on a motor.

Any answer, questions or complaints are welcome.

 

[WoodiE]

@Jerold, for me, I've found using a butane torch makes soldering thick wires and big bullet connectors a breeze.

Mapp is going to be extremely hot and I too would agree would be a big over kill for this application. Though I suppose you could try.

 

[slick2500]

When it comes to soldering I'm 100% OK with it, but struggling a bit with the large (8 AWG) wires to make it look pretty. The connections are solid in the end but they could be better. So I'm wondering if it's just experience with large wires and or if I'm using the right tools?

My station is a Hakko FX-888D (65W). It works well even on 10 AWG wires. My standard tip is a 3.2mm chisel tip which I swapped to 5.2mm chisel tip for the bigger stuff. It works OK for 8 AWG but it's hard to keep the connect/tab hot and the wire too. So I ordered a 5mm bevel tip in hopes to transfer more heat faster with more surface area.

Another thought is to use a torch. I have Propane, Mapp and Oxy/Mapp options. The nozzles I have are for general use braising materials. Anything Mapp might be a bit overkill?

So here are the questions

• What tip do you use for the big wires?
• Do I need more wattage to make easier?
• Thoughts about a torch (butane, propane, etc) and do I need a special nozzle? Has anyone tried this?

I will probably experiment with the torch on the bullets, but I'm a bit leery of using is on a motor.

Any answer, questions or complaints are welcome.

Probably not the answer you are looking for but for thicker wire you will probably need a higher wattage iron, I have seen a few guys recommend this one for large connectors and thick wires.

 

[norcalsc]

150w iron solved all my soldering problems.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/372003559312?hash=item569d23d790:g:fOkAAOSww5hZNYbK

 

[Jerold]

@Jerold, for me, I've found using a butane torch makes soldering thick wires and big bullet connectors a breeze.

Mapp is going to be extremely hot and I too would agree would be a big over kill for this application. Though I suppose you could try.

Any particular torch that works best?

Should I go low end and get the HF micro Torch
https://www.harborfreight.com/butane-micro-torch-63170.html

Other's have reference the Turbo Blue Torch at Lowes. Even cheaper but looks like it's a small flame?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Turbo-Blue-Torch-Stick/1001090722

Or just hit Amazon and find one that looks robust?

 

[Adiabatic]

I have a similar station but don't use it for large wires and connectors. It's possible but unnecessarily difficult and much easier with a higher wattage iron and more thermal mass in the tip. Butane mini torch works too if you're careful. Propane possibly if you have a small enough nozzle. MAPP and especially anything with additional oxygen will be overkill.

 

[WoodiE]

Any particular torch that works best?

The one I linked above is what I use.

 

[SrC]

750 degree iron setting using a large Blunt soldering tip. Use Flux. I have no issues with 8 gage this way.
If it takes too long to melt the solder and flow, there is something wrong. Stop and evaluate the problem. Or you will make a mess of the joint.
The joint should be Shiny and smooth. If dull, it is a "Cold" joint. NG. Tug on the joint firmly, when cooled, to check, always.

 

[Thumper33]

Funny that you posted this just now. Just two days ago I got fed up with my old iron not being hot enough for even medium sized tasks. I've been thinking of getting a better iron for a long time and finally reached the end of my rope. Its not the cheapest option, but my motto is buy quality and you only buy it once. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JDGY1J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are bigger and hotter ones out there, but this ought to do everything I can think I'll get into.

 

[Greengaunja]

Yep, MAP is overkill. I'm sure it would melt more insulation than desired. I use MAP in plumbing solely because it heats up pipes faster and therefore less risk of fires from scorched studs and keeping a flame inside wall cavities too long.
I like my butane torch, and use only 11X or better butane(keeps nozzles clean). I'm often asked, "why butane?". Easy. I can use it in the field and most solder jobs are 5 minutes or less. So butane heats up faster and seems more practical. I also find dipping twisted wires into plumbing flux helps the bonds with battery connectors. The first few I did on my own had a habit of melting back off but now I can get a nice solid blob on it that holds up better.

 

[Jerold]

Funny that you posted this just now. Just two days ago I got fed up with my old iron not being hot enough for even medium sized tasks. I've been thinking of getting a better iron for a long time and finally reached the end of my rope. Its not the cheapest option, but my motto is buy quality and you only buy it once. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JDGY1J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are bigger and hotter ones out there, but this ought to do everything I can think I'll get into.

That very similar to the Hakko I have. That works well for great for 90% of the application and does work for the 8AWG but it feels a bit under powered for that.

 

[Notoriousone]

For 8 gauge or larger wire, this will solve all issues.. the 300 watt Weller D650 Soldering gun. It solders 8 gauge and bigger wire with ease, heats up fast and has never failed me.. its cheap too, costs around $60. Its big and heavy and feels like it will last forever, a real old school tool. I use a 80watt Hakko iron for the smaller jobs but the Weller is my favorite to use

 

[Jerold]

I stopped at the Home Depot and picked up the Micro Torch and some Butane. I will give it a try and see what happens.

Also, to my surprise sell the Weller 1010 setup and solder too. I had a love hate relationship with Fry's electronics but I could usally get soldering stuff. So no I know to check the box store rather than wait for Amazon.

I'm thinking to try a slightly different method with the bullets.

1. Strip and tin the wire
2. Fill the bullet with solder
3. Place the bullet upside down on the tinned wire and heat until it seats.

Thoughts?

I also need to solder the terminals on the Castle which might be a bit more challenging because I don't want to over heat the motor terminals or connected parts.

 

[slick2500]

Probably not the answer you are looking for but for thicker wire you will probably need a higher wattage iron, I have seen a few guys recommend this one for large connectors and thick wires.

Hey what happened to my link?

 

[SrC]

Yep, MAP is overkill. I'm sure it would melt more insulation than desired. I use MAP in plumbing solely because it heats up pipes faster and therefore less risk of fires from scorched studs and keeping a flame inside wall cavities too long.
I like my butane torch, and use only 11X or better butane(keeps nozzles clean). I'm often asked, "why butane?". Easy. I can use it in the field and most solder jobs are 5 minutes or less. So butane heats up faster and seems more practical. I also find dipping twisted wires into plumbing flux helps the bonds with battery connectors. The first few I did on my own had a habit of melting back off but now I can get a nice solid blob on it that holds up better.

Honestly, using a Butane torch is fine also. Just that whatever your poison is, it must make a Good joint. The result is what matters with soldering.
Yeah MAP gas would be overkill for sure. MAP is super hot. Twice as hot as Butane.
I only sweat copper plumbing with that. What the pros use.
It is possible to Overheat the Solder itself also. Food for thought
750F seems about right for Rosin core solder. (Lead solder) Lead-Free solder needs a bit more heat. And you have to work quicker. Also, I find mixing Silver solder (Lead-free) and Leaded solder never works well. Don't mix the 2. So when soldering PreTinned wires, Best to snip off the Tinned wire and Pre tin your self with Lead solder. Usually Mfr. Pre-tinned solder is not Lead solder. Why take the chance of mixing the 2.
I only use Lead solder. I have silver solder here also. I don't like it. For larger gage soldering the joints seem too brittle. For fine work PCB soldering it is ok.
If you use both types of solder. Keep the tips separately tinned for the solder you choose. Tips need to be tinned as well. Very important. There is a procedure to this. Soldering is done faster if the soldering tips are pre-tinned when new before use. All new tips Must be pre-tinned. Many overlook this step.

 

[Greengaunja]

Honestly, using a Butane torch is fine also. Just that whatever your poison is, it must make a Good joint. The result is what matters with soldering.
Yeah MAP gas would be overkill for sure. MAP is super hot. Twice as hot as Butane.
I only sweat copper plumbing with that. What the pros use.
It is possible to Overheat the Solder itself also. Food for thought
750F seems about right for Rosin core solder. (Lead solder) Lead-Free solder needs a bit more heat. And you have to work quicker. Also, I find mixing Silver solder (Lead-free) and Leaded solder never works well. Don't mix the 2. So when soldering PreTinned wires, Best to snip off the Tinned wire and Pre tin your self with Lead solder. Usually Mfr. Pre-tinned solder is not Lead solder. Why take the chance of mixing the 2.
I only use Lead solder. I have silver solder here also. I don't like it. For larger gage soldering the joints seem too brittle. For fine work PCB soldering it is ok.
If you use both types of solder. Keep the tips separately tinned for the solder you choose. Tips need to be tinned as well. Very important. There is a procedure to this. Soldering is done faster if the soldering tips are pre-tinned when new before use. All new tips Must be pre-tinned. Many overlook this step.

Have you ever had problems using lead for battery/esc connections? As you pointed out, lower melting temperature for lead. Not sure about in the States but the only use building code allows for lead plumbing-wise here is in drains(better gap filler). As a habit, I only buy lead-free because it eliminates that risk of accidently using lead solder for a water line.
I never was big into soldering, never had too much use for it until I took up the hobby. Been soldering my own electronics/batteries since September now and I noticed that tip you shared gives control/hold of solder on the tip. I was cleaning my tips too well and noticed the improvement when soldering using a tip I forgot to clean

 

[Jon NC RC]

Have you ever had problems using lead for battery/esc connections? As you pointed out, lower melting temperature for lead. Not sure about in the States but the only use building code allows for lead plumbing-wise here is in drains(better gap filler). As a habit, I only buy lead-free because it eliminates that risk of accidently using lead solder for a water line.
I never was big into soldering, never had too much use for it until I took up the hobby. Been soldering my own electronics/batteries since September now and I noticed that tip you shared gives control/hold of solder on the tip. I was cleaning my tips too well and noticed the improvement when soldering using a tip I forgot to clean

It was easier for me to use rosin solder (Has lead) for all soldering applications, including battery/esc connection ..... I am new to it, too.....

Trial and error.... good advice above