soldering sucks!

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Since I started running electric... I now have 3 soldering irons. An old 25 watt radio shack one I've used for 20 years on everything (car stereos, receiver packs for nitro, etc.) and now I have 2 cheap ones for dealing with the heavy gauge wire and desoldering/soldering lipo packs.
Anbes 60W
Choice 100W

The anbes one has a dial and I turn it up to the red numbers to do battery connectors. The 100W one is just 100W always. It's like using a baseball bat, but worked well to desolder some of my SMC lipo packs to build 3S out of some 2S packs.

I have an old container of flux I picked up at lowes to clean the tips and to coat the wire/connectors with before tinning.

For $20, the Anbes 60W does the job for most things. Was able to solder up 10AWG wire with it pretty quickly/easily. The 25W iron wouldn't even try.

I use this solder:
https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0010-Rosin-Solder-SPOOL/dp/B07HLQP7X2

Got that from a guy at work 20 years ago... still using the same roll.
 
What tips do you guys normally use?a pointed tip or a chisel tip for changing connections?
Everyone I have talked to says chisel tip. I can understand why, you get a much larger heat path with the flat wider tip than you would from a point.
 
Everyone I have talked to says chisel tip. I can understand why, you get a much larger heat path with the flat wider tip than you would from a point.

I thought that would be the case. Sadly I can’t change the tip on mine and it is painful to use. I’m no solder pro and haven’t done it for about 25uears until recently, but back then I did a pretty neat job on PCB’s but now.....a simple connector seems way too hard and my work looks like crap
 
I thought that would be the case. Sadly I can’t change the tip on mine and it is painful to use. I’m no solder pro and haven’t done it for about 25uears until recently, but back then I did a pretty neat job on PCB’s but now.....a simple connector seems way too hard and my work looks like crap
Yeah, my current iron only has a pointed tip, and I cannot find replacement tips anywhere for it :mad: Well Lenk lists the part number as L40CT in a soldering iron kit they sell on their website, but a search of their website and Google only brings up that kit...............

When I first started soldering it looked like metal bird poop.
Now my solder jobs look much better.
 
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Youtube taught me and I SUCK, and now I reading more about it im worried that down the road my solder job is gonna blow up my esc or motor lol..

Maybe I should just take it up to the hobby shop or something.. but yeah u gotta start somewhere!

looks so easy on youtube, I think I just got poopy solder wire or a poopy soldering iron..Or I just totallllly suck at it.
Most important things. Clean wires with steel wool or very fine sand paper first. Make a good physical connection between the wires being soldered together. Use a good Rosen core flux. Be sure to heat the wires to appropriate temperature before trying to apply solder (don’t apply solder before it’s melting temp).
 
Most important things. Clean wires with steel wool or very fine sand paper first. Make a good physical connection between the wires being soldered together. Use a good Rosen core flux. Be sure to heat the wires to appropriate temperature before trying to apply solder (don’t apply solder before it’s melting temp).
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Confession, I suck at soldering.. But I DID IT!!! I took the old harness from my revo 2.0, The power cable with 2 ends.. anyway I solderd that to the stupid MM2 ESC I have cuz ya know.. It needs power cables lol

So anyway I got the negative soldered, omg it looks so ugly.. then I did the positive.. That one didn't wanna solder very well ended up clipping the end and re doing it..

didn't have shrink wrap so I did it with electrical tape..

Hooked up the motor to the Esc turned on the power and...……… IT WORKED! omg what have I done!! lol

So then I grabbed the old receiver I had from the revo and hooked that up.. backwards.. WOOPS... fixed yay!

Then I grabbed the old transmitter from the revo and read the manual for the mm2 real quick and …. I GOT THE DAMN THING SETUP RIGHT!!!!!!!!


After calibrating the ESC I hit the throttle and the damn motor about jumped out of my hands!! lol 2250kv? I think 60,000RPM things a monster.

Anyway I'm just excited I actualy did something right, ive NEVER done this before and I just kinda winged it lol.

Thanks for letting me share I don't have anyone around here to brag about this stuff, if I did I doubt anyone would care lol
Good job. Shine up all the wires first. Use flux. Heat the wires , not the solder first. And if your like me, don’t forget to put the heat shrink tube on before ya solder it!!
What is deemed “appropriate wattage”?
25W
 
NO need to "shine up" or clean anything of the wires at all. It's not an Electrical wire soldering thing at all. Just a twist of the stranded wire if anything
We are not "Sweating" Copper Plumbing Pipe here!

That is what the Flux in the solder's Core is for, it creates a clean surface for solder adhesion. Being acid based, and cleans upon high heat.
 
NO need to "shine up" or clean anything of the wires at all. It's not an Electrical wire soldering thing at all. Just a twist of the stranded wire if anything
We are not "Sweating" Copper Plumbing Pipe here!

That is what the Flux in the solder's Core is for, it creates a clean surface for solder adhesion. Being acid based, and cleans upon high heat.
Electrical solder is rosin core
 
Yes it is.
And.....

>> I missed your point there.:unsure:

Was that a question or a correction in regards?>
 
NO need to "shine up" or clean anything of the wires at all. It's not an Electrical wire soldering thing at all. Just a twist of the stranded wire if anything
We are not "Sweating" Copper Plumbing Pipe here!

That is what the Flux in the solder's Core is for, it creates a clean surface for solder adhesion. Being acid based, and cleans upon high heat.

Lol..........

 
Freshly stripped wires are already clean.
An electrician? What trade exactly. Household wiring???? Solid copper wiring?
In that trade no one solders household wiring. It does not meet code last I heard. Not sure what you mean. My Bro-Inlaw is a licensed electrician for about 40+ years now. He inspects and signs off on my work in my home. He doesn't play around.
I am confused.
When sweating Copper Pipes for plumbing it is normal to clean the joints well due to oxidation. A given. I do that also. But is a different trade altogether.
 
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I have no need to argue with a dimwit. Not that important. Not life or death. Goodbye
 
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