Kraton Soldering XT90’s- what’s the trick?

[photobasher]

So I am new To making my own connectors, and not very experienced with soldiering. I have watched several YouTube videos and have made many attempts and I simply cannot solder an XT 90 connector to save my life! What am I missing? I can make an EC5 pretty easily, but on the XT 90 the “well” seems really deep and my solder slides down in there and the matter how I do it I can’t seem to get the solder on the wire and the solder in the connector to fuse. Is my iron not hot enough? I’m not sure what the wattage is.

 

[Mongoose]

I set my iron at 650 degrees. Hold the wires in a vice and heat up the wire by placing the tip underneath the wire and place the solder on top so it is wicked into the wire braid. Then I put the connector in the vice position such that the “well” is parallel with the table, place my iron tip underneath (I also tin the tip or add just a little bit of solder to it) and then just feed the solder in so it pools up. I let it cool for about 2 minutes, place the tip back underneath the post until the solder liquifies, then put my wire in it and quickly place the tip on top of the wire until it it “softens” and bonds with the solder in the well, and add just a little bit more solder to the wire. Then remove the iron and hold the wire until it cools and can support itself. Done.

Tip-if you have the other connector, like the male side to the female side, you can connect them to help draw the heat away from the plastic.

 

[photobasher]

I set my iron at 650 degrees. Hold the wires in a vice and heat up the wire by placing the tip underneath the wire and place the solder on top so it is wicked into the wire braid. Then I put the connector in the vice position such that the “well” is parallel with the table, place my iron tip underneath (I also tin the tip or add just a little bit of solder to it) and then just feed the solder in so it pools up. I let it cool for about 2 minutes, place the tip back underneath the post until the solder liquifies, then put my wire in it and quickly place the tip on top of the wire until it it “softens” and bonds with the solder in the well, and add just a little bit more solder to the wire. Then remove the iron and hold the wire until it cools and can support itself. Done.

Tip-if you have the other connector, like the male side to the female side, you can connect them to help draw the heat away from the plastic.

Thanks Robert. Good tips. I just discovered my iron is 25 watts. I think that’s my problem. Everyone says to melt the solder by heating up the other surface first (wire, connector, etc) and I just can’t seem to achieve that with my iron. What wattage do you think I need? Is 40 enough?

 

[ninadada]

Thanks Robert. Good tips. I just discovered my iron is 25 watts. I think that’s my problem. Everyone says to melt the solder by heating up the other surface first (wire, connector, etc) and I just can’t seem to achieve that with my iron. What wattage do you think I need? Is 40 enough?

Yes, the higher the wattage the better. Also, use a large soldering tip. The higher heat capacity of a large tip allows heat to flow more quickly into the wire and thus melt the solder faster.

 

[Mongoose]

This is the one I have and it’s 70W. It’s awesome.

https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888d.html

I also have a Weller WTCPT that I would make you a good deal on or possibly trade. The temp is controlled by the tip you use.

https://www.amazon.com/WTCPT-Temperature-Controlled-Soldering-Station/dp/B00004W463

 

[Lazy Bushman]

Use flux as well as it will make life easier. I twist the wires, dab them in some flux, I load the tip of my iron with solder and it transfers exist to the wires as soon as they are ready.

On the connector it is a similar process of applying flux and solder. I put enough on to hold it first and then add more. I also do as @Mongoose has suggested re the male female connectors. Key is also having a steady hand. I made a simple jig with dowels and a piece of wood but has since bought the following jig https://www.banggood.com/Aluminum-C...p-1367460.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN as well as a Helping Hands incase the jig sucks.

My iron only has a pointed tip and it is a bit of a pain to @ninadada is right about the larger tip....a chisel tip is good.

 

[Mongoose]

+1 on the flux AND the chisel tip. Also, a good roll of rosin core solder with lead.

 

[ninadada]

...and heat shrink. Don't forget the heat shrink! I don't know how many facepalms I've done, having to desolder a perfectly good connection because I forgot to slide the heat shrink over the wire first!

 

[Lazy Bushman]

I use those connectors with the black section that clips up over the back and don't need heat shrink......mind you they don't stop facepalming when you solder the connector to realise you didn't slide it on first or you did one not the other. The solder job would need to be pretty bad to need heat shrink as well....so bad you'd probably cut it off and re-do anyway

 

[Nitr0EngiEx]

 

[Lazy Bushman]

actually why don't you just change over to EC5's if that's what you like using and can solder easier?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I have a RadioShack 60w adjustable iron, and set it to (I think)788f. Plug the m/f plugs together, and hold them in a 3rd hand jig, horizontally. Tin the wire, tin the plug, then put them together, and reheat to melt the solder, adding a bit as needed. don't forget the wire cap before you make the solder connection.

 

[Hoss81]

Soldering XT90s sucks. You need a big gun with alot of heat.

I put connected male and female ends in the vice. I connect them because it helps dissipate heat and if not the amount of heat needed to get a good glassy solder joint will melt the xt90 housing.

I have a weller 260 watt gun and it does the trick. I've jumped around connectors alot this year. Went from the old style Traxxas plug and now I'm experimenting between the XT90s and the Castle 6.5mm connectors. The castles are easier because you don't push the metal pieces into the connector until you are done. They are extremely tight connectors though and I do not like the amount of effort to unplug them. Which is why I picked up some XT90s.

Good solder and good flux makes it easier. But soldering 10 AWG fine strand wire just sucks. One of the reason I continue to use SMC for my batteries is they will put whatever connector I want on the packs.

Good luck.

 

[photobasher]

actually why don't you just change over to EC5's if that's what you like using and can solder easier?

Oh I’ve considered it! But I first thought I’d embrace the challenge of developing my soldering skills and then decide if I still want to switch.

I bought a Weller 80w digital (got a good price on an open box deal) and it comes in tomorrow. Also ordered a chisel tip and some higher quality solder. I think that, plus a little more practice, is going to make a big difference.

 

[olds97_lss]

Oh I’ve considered it! But I first thought I’d embrace the challenge of developing my soldering skills and then decide if I still want to switch.

I bought a Weller 80w digital (got a good price on an open box deal) and it comes in tomorrow. Also ordered a chisel tip and some higher quality solder. I think that, plus a little more practice, is going to make a big difference.

Get some flux paste. Will make it even easier.

 

[Mongoose]

Let us know how it goes....I think you will soon know why it looks so easy on the videos now that you will be using quality tools and solder.

 

[Lazy Bushman]

Oh I’ve considered it! But I first thought I’d embrace the challenge of developing my soldering skills and then decide if I still want to switch.

I bought a Weller 80w digital (got a good price on an open box deal) and it comes in tomorrow. Also ordered a chisel tip and some higher quality solder. I think that, plus a little more practice, is going to make a big difference.

Well good luck with that and as @olds97_lss said, make sure you get some Flux paste

 

[WoodiE]

Here is a great and detailed thread on How to Solder Correctly.

 

[2old2pb]

The one thing I don't see anything about in the above posts is cleaning. Clean all parts with alcohol, including the solder. Clean the tip of the iron by knocking off old solder before soldering. You'll need a small amount of new solder for a heat bridge. If you're still having problems with wetting(that's what it's called when solder flows) further clean by soldering some solder onto the parts and removing the solder off by solder wick or a solder sucker. You'll know its done right when its all shinny. Clean flux and rosin off after you're done. WoodiE's thread in the post above is good. And if its not all clean and shinny when your done(shinny, no pits, cracks, inclusions) take it off and start again.

 

[Drog343]

...and heat shrink. Don't forget the heat shrink! I don't know how many facepalms I've done, having to desolder a perfectly good connection because I forgot to slide the heat shrink over the wire first!

Ikr? I'm such a clod when it comes to this (I even lay everything out in order before I get going, and sure enough if I'm gonna make a mistake, that's the one), I'll learn, one of these days, lol.