Granite Solving driveshaft breaking issues

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It's actually $63.95 just to do two cvds if buying the parts separately. (links are from Tower Hobbies part of Horizon now)

Slider X2 https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXGYRM&P=7
Diff outdrives https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXGYRN&P=7
Axles https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXGYRP&P=7
CVD Pins https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXGYRR&P=7

For whatever reason the part that's taking so long to complete them is the diff outdrives.

The sliders I don't mind being plastic it's the u-joints that pop and wear out and those are metal on the cvds.
 
It's actually $63.95 just to do two cvds if buying the parts separately. (links are from Tower Hobbies part of Horizon now)

Slider X2 https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXGYRM&P=7
Diff outdrives https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXGYRN&P=7
Axles https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXGYRP&P=7
CVD Pins https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXGYRR&P=7

For whatever reason the part that's taking so long to complete them is the diff outdrives.

The sliders I don't mind being plastic it's the u-joints that pop and wear out and those are metal on the cvds.
Why only do 2 sliders? I would do all four.
 
Why is this all peiced out? They should have a set of 2 for the front and 2 for the rear that are complete sets where you buy it and it comes with everything ready to drop in. What is this? A puzzle?
 
Why is this all peiced out? They should have a set of 2 for the front and 2 for the rear that are complete sets where you buy it and it comes with everything ready to drop in. What is this? A puzzle?
Actually it should just be sold in pairs and you would need to buy 2 pairs. The front and rear are identical on 3S rigs.
 
I don't understand i feel i have full power on 4s witha one turn slipper loosen
I don't understand why you want to have no slipage at all you going to explode your diff or something the 6s line has a center diff who regulated the power front and rear if load is going trought the back of the car the front diff will receive more power main reason why the 6s rigs have a center diff you don't want a locked drivetrain and if you do have a drivetrain like the 4s rigs or 3s the slipper works bassicly like a "fake" differantial because when my slipper is too loose my front wheels baloon a lot while the rear tires are almost not receiving power
If you take your slipper apart you can see that the slliper can slip towards the front and towards the rear bassicly acting like a diff in a way. I had a rustler 4x4 before and the slipper was differant if it slip it slip rear and front i don't knwo if you get what im trying to say
you might get unbreakable driveshafts but your diffs will start to suffer don't ask why because i stripped my first rear diff on 3s because i locked the whole slipper clutch fully and snaped a tooth
 
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Why is this all peiced out? They should have a set of 2 for the front and 2 for the rear that are complete sets where you buy it and it comes with everything ready to drop in. What is this? A puzzle?

It's not a puzzle. The pieces can be bought separately so if one piece breaks you won't have to replace and buy the whole thing. They will eventually release a fully assembled one when they will who knows :unsure:.
 
It's not a puzzle. The pieces can be bought separately so if one piece breaks you won't have to replace and buy the whole thing. They will eventually release a fully assembled one when they will who knows :unsure:.

At this price, they shouldn't break.

I really don't like that, these plastic drive shaft are really like Traxxas. Even with the slipper adjusted, they will never last as long as steel ones.
 
I don't understand i feel i have full power on 4s witha one turn slipper loosen
I don't understand why you want to have no slipage at all you going to explode your diff or something the 6s line has a center diff who regulated the power front and rear if load is going trought the back of the car the front diff will receive more power main reason why the 6s rigs have a center diff you don't want a locked drivetrain and if you do have a drivetrain like the 4s rigs or 3s the slipper works bassicly like a "fake" differantial because when my slipper is too loose my front wheels baloon a lot while the rear tires are almost not receiving power
If you take your slipper apart you can see that the slliper can slip towards the front and towards the rear bassicly acting like a diff in a way. I had a rustler 4x4 before and the slipper was differant if it slip it slip rear and front i don't knwo if you get what im trying to say
you might get unbreakable driveshafts but your diffs will start to suffer don't ask why because i stripped my first rear diff on 3s because i locked the whole slipper clutch fully and snaped a tooth


I have tried loosening the slipper and even from the factory I didnt have much luck. If you loosen it, sooner or later it will start to slip too much and then you will hear it whine or you’ll notice it doesn't wheelie because it wore itself out or loosened itself, so my solution was crank on it until its fully tightened. Problem solved. I don't like the clutch setup on the granite. I shouldnt have to tinker with it to save driveshafts like this.
 
I'm waiting for Arrma to give me a reason to beef up the last Granite 4x4 I snagged at my LHS for pennies (probably due to horizon "upgrading" the electronics) but this is just more nonsense. I want to see if anyone actually pieced these things together. I'm still waiting on the diffs. My LHS have the demo 4s Kraton & Outcast with the BLX systems on the cheap & I would of snagged both if my plastic driveshaft/drivetrain phobia wasn't in full force. They been there at that stupid price for 2 weeks now & no one is touching them. If I knew the diffs were coming out, I would get both in a heartbeat.
 
Upgrading the electronics? Please elaborate! Also, the diffs on the BLX 4x4 granite seem bullet proof unless I’m wrong and about to get bad news from you guys.
 
Upgrading the electronics? Please elaborate! Also, the diffs on the BLX 4x4 granite seem bullet proof unless I’m wrong and about to get bad news from you guys.
I have owned (at one point), 7 Granite 4x4s, in all stages of modding & power. Plastic diffs will never be bulletproof, period. Sintered metal diffs will never be bulletproof. The only diff that can be bullet has to have similar hardness, an HRC of 45 or better. I've stripped the diffs & busted the driveshafts in the 3s Granite more than once, & that was the plain stock car with a tightened slipper. The 4x4s out the box accelerate like a nitro because of the terrible radio & half tightened slipper. I know they come like that to save the drivetrain (but, the radio has no excuse). The truck is fine for most people but I see it as something that could be one of the best if it had the right components & I'm tired of Arrma trickling upgrades for this line while making it more powerful. For example, if you tighten the slipper completely on the Kraton 4x4, it has the power to rip the metal part right out of the diff input gear. This happened to the demo when I bogged it in some tall grass, & it's been sitting busted like that ever since. These cars need metal components to show their true potential, not the watered down versions we have now.

As for the "upgrade", it was simply switching over to that smart whatever ESC. I don't need my cars being smart, that job goes to the person controlling it ;)
 
In my opinion the TTX300 is a great radio. Nice feel, no antenna, and precise. I even swapped the garbage spektrum radio out of my proboat recoil 26 for a TTX300. As far as the diffs, even on the box they brag about how beefy they are. I drive my stuff HARD and till now *knock knock* the diffs have been rock solid. I wouldnt mind spending money on upgrades for drivetrain if arrma would release them, (driveshafts, diffs, etc.) I currently have the HR motor mount for instance because I run a 17T and arrma didnt have one out at the time and now arrma has one for even cheaper and looks better. I might do all of you a favor and talk to my fab guy and see what he can create and I can try it out and help everyone here out.
 
In my opinion the TTX300 is a great radio. Nice feel, no antenna, and precise. I even swapped the garbage spektrum radio out of my proboat recoil 26 for a TTX300. As far as the diffs, even on the box they brag about how beefy they are. I drive my stuff HARD and till now *knock knock* the diffs have been rock solid. I wouldnt mind spending money on upgrades for drivetrain if arrma would release them, (driveshafts, diffs, etc.) I currently have the HR motor mount for instance because I run a 17T and arrma didnt have one out at the time and now arrma has one for even cheaper and looks better. I might do all of you a favor and talk to my fab guy and see what he can create and I can try it out and help everyone here out.
Yeah I gotta agree here. The diffs are the ONLY thing I’ve yet to break. That’s saying something. I would say the u-joints and slipper are for sure the weak spots so far.
 
I did forget about the motor mount I bent on the Kraton as well. The HR & Arrma adj. are suppose to be billet while the stocker is stamped. I didn't bend it on my 1st Granite 3s but I jacked everything else up so quickly it didn't have a chance to bend.
 
I spoke too soon .... ??‍♂️??‍♂️??‍♂️

86F44DBB-FD83-4BBE-B695-FD0AEC8BF0CE.jpeg
 
I think the stock motor mount is OK in the Granite because of the much smaller and lighter can, but they didn't do enough testing with the 4S motor which is much longer and heavier. Never had a problem with the Granite, but I think the Kraton bends fairly easily.
 
I’m upset FOR you. I am on a mission for everyone here to make solid driveshafts.
 
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