Outcast Some questions after repair

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It' t420 stainless tube can get it at home depot it might not b stainless I have a machinist so I can get a little diff materials then most people
 
How did you thread it, sorry to be stupid, trying to figure out if this is something I could build.
 
I have a tap and die set that I threaded the stainless sorry for the late response just got home from my lhs picked up tenko shims for my diffs and changing to pt racing diff fluid it's what all the pro drivers use the owner said they sold 65 bottles last week so it must b good lol picked up a couple more 3s packs because my motor should b in in about a week and then stage 2 project 12s outcast begins
 
So took a look this evening and noticed that the plastic piece that goes from the shocktower/bulkhead in front to the chassis along the front center dogbone was loose where it attached to the chassis. Tightened that up but chassis is still bent. A little better than it was before though.
Chassis brace is a little too advanced for my skills and time at the moment.

Can anyone tell me what its like to replace the chassis on these things? From looking at the bottom it almost looks like I can just take out all the screws and just pull off the chassis and put the new chassis on. Is it pretty simple or more complicated than that?
 
@robl45 KISS
Tower to Tower brace is simple, go to Lowes, Home Depot, Menards ect and buy some aluminum rod or bar. I used 1/2 inch rod paid like $7 or $8 for it.

Cut a notch in one end of the rod so it fits in the rear shock tower.
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Also you can see the chunk of foam I placed under the brace.

Cut the other end so it goes out past the front shock tower by about 1/2in or so and cut another notch so it sits on top of the front shock tower.
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Zip tie everything down.
 
Honestly robl45 a tower to tower brace is pretty simple. Putting a whole ne chasss under it is alot more involved your gonna basically rebuild the entire car. Which I honestly recommnd recommend gets you to know your rig inside and out and it makes it alot easier when your doing maintenance if you'e taken the rig apart and re assembled it a few times. I do a complete tare down after every session check all diffs for play change fluid every 10 sessions. Lube everything and clean the entire rig every ime I go out. Makees it to were u can change just about everything in the field or the track.
 
This I can do. Do you have exact dimensions by any chance? Iamoutcast said it should be 13.31 from inside rear shocktower to outside front shock tower. Normally I would just lay it in like I'm sure you did and mark it out but since the chassis is bent already I don't have that option.

@robl45 KISS
Tower to Tower brace is simple, go to Lowes, Home Depot, Menards ect and buy some aluminum rod or bar. I used 1/2 inch rod paid like $7 or $8 for it.

Cut a notch in one end of the rod so it fits in the rear shock tower.
RpyZ5gkl.jpg

Also you can see the chunk of foam I placed under the brace.

Cut the other end so it goes out past the front shock tower by about 1/2in or so and cut another notch so it sits on top of the front shock tower.
f0NhVVOl.jpg


Zip tie everything down.
 
This I can do. Do you have exact dimensions by any chance? Iamoutcast said it should be 13.31 from inside rear shocktower to outside front shock tower. Normally I would just lay it in like I'm sure you did and mark it out but since the chassis is bent already I don't have that option.
If your chassis is really bent your best bet is a new chassis off eBay, they are like $22 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-Outc...924657&hash=item1ca19e3753:g:TKEAAOSwa0VaD8wg

It's pretty sad that the actual chassis is less than the chassis protector https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-Outc...291806?hash=item3f80c45b9e:g:97MAAOSw2gxY3IAN
 
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Yea, maybe eventually, but chassis brace should straighten it out for now. It just amazes me the little details of Arrma that suck. 32 years in this hobby and I've never bent a chassis. I don't even think its possible to bend the chassis on my old LST2.
 
Do I have to remove the roll bar in the center to fit the brace, can't tell by the pictures.
 
I had to remove it then cut put the cross section and then I re inserted the piece that goes from side to side. That way my chassis brace goes thro the roll cage.
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Yea, maybe eventually, but chassis brace should straighten it out for now. It just amazes me the little details of Arrma that suck. 32 years in this hobby and I've never bent a chassis. I don't even think its possible to bend the chassis on my old LST2.
I've broken a few chassis before. But I never bent one before I got my Outcast.

And I also had to remove a coupe of the cross bars on mine.
 
Well I got the 1/2 inch rod today and started to do this. I"m trying to do it a little different where I'm slotting the back and front to go over the shock towers because then it will fit through the middle piece without having to cut anything.

My question is, what did you use to cut the aluminum? I'm assuming a dremel? But what bit? I'm having a hard time cutting through this thing and probably don't have the right bit for the job.
 
I didn't have any of those. I think its done, I still need to zip tie it and cut it down a bit. I had a sanding bit that worked a bit and then I ended up using vice grips and basically just ripping the metal off.
 
So pissed off. It was all done and snapped at one of the spots I cut for the shock tower when I went to cut it down to size.
 
So got the brace done and the kid hits a mailbox again totaling the front end. Question. Does the front end look crooked? I looked at the shock tower and it appears straight, but the whole front gearbox looks crooked even though I don't think thats possible.
 

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