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- 4x4-Mega
- Senton 6s
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The slipper and driveshafts probably won't like 4S power on anything but loose surfaces... especially if you're running a 20T or larger pinion.
If you keep it out of the grass and go easy on asphalt, you should be OK. The motor may eventually let the smoke out on 4S... it gets pretty hot on 3S with the stock 15T. Might want a 2600kv motor...
Why not go 4S Outcast? I just discovered these existed today and am almost regretting the Granite. ALMOST. Haha.
As for the diffs, they are pretty strong for plastic units. Better bearings could always help... but keep them greased and they'll last a long time. They are practically the same as 4S Outcast diffs...
Are the 3s diffs metal geared? So far, it's the drivetrain gears and slipper that are on my upgrade list. So is there any metal ring & pinion that will fit? I have a 36x60mm motor and a Max 10 ESC, so the weight isn't really that much. I'll be mostly running 2s and drop in 4s when I want it to party, I just want it to be able to handle when I run 4sIf your deal is for a Mega truck, then you will need motor mount, slipper, diff inputs, and diffs from the 3s or 4s trucks.
I did run 4s with a BLX185 in my Granite for a while. But, it was too heavy. A lighter 3s system makes the truck run so much better.
Just the 4S cones stock with a metal spur, but you can buy the steel spur from the 4S or the HR spur and it will work with the 3S line. If you have a Mega, it comes with a 48p pinion and it will need to be replaced with a 32p or mod 0.8 pinion.Are the 3s diffs metal geared? So far, it's the drivetrain gears and slipper that are on my upgrade list. So is there any metal ring & pinion that will fit? I have a 36x60mm motor and a Max 10 ESC, so the weight isn't really that much. I'll be mostly running 2s and drop in 4s when I want it to party, I just want it to be able to handle when I run 4s
Just the 4S cones stock with a metal spur, but you can buy the steel spur from the 4S or the HR spur and it will work with the 3S line. If you have a Mega, it comes with a 48p pinion and it will need to be replaced with a 32p or mod 0.8 pinion.
So the larger gear pitch will make them stronger, but there's no metal upgrade?
No you have to match gear pitch. A 32p and 48p aren’t going to mesh. The center bearing can be added to the Granite and Outcasr, but the short wheelbase doesn’t need it. Feel free to add it if you feel better.So the larger gear pitch will make them stronger, but there's no metal upgrade?
And I also want to pick up the high speed bearing support for the center shaft
Just to be clear we are talking about a Mega Granite and not a 3s BLX right?
Yes the teeth on the inputs and ring gears on the BLX parts are larger than the Mega. There are metal upgrade parts coming but they have not been released and probably won't be anytime soon. Metal driveshafts keep getting the release date pushed back aslo. The diffs and inputs on the 4s line are the same as the 3s line but as mentioned the spur is metal on the 4s.
I don't know what your worried about the (BLX) plastic gears on 4s that's one thing that's not to have shown too many problems with is the diffs the gears inside are metal.
The stock bearings have what have been a problem so get some rubber sealed bearings if not already been installed. Get some good bearings for the slipper assy if your worried about it that much whether you think the shaft creates slipper bearing problems are not.
The Mega and BLX diffs are different, but the BLX diffs are solid, unless you throw 1/8 power and 6s at them.
3s and 4s diffs are the same. Be sure to get the 13t input with the diffs, the mega uses a 17t input.
While you are at the ebay chop shops, also grab a set of turnbuckles and metal hexes. The 3s truck have 14mm hexes, the 4s trucks have 17mm hexes. The Mega hex are 14mm plastic. Also grab some Typhon 6s shocks, if you are lucky enough to see them. The Senton shocks may work, but they are a few mm longer than the Typhon shocks (which are already about 5mm longer than the 4x4 shocks).
Last thing you will want to address - the steering. Go ahead and buy a bearing kit from your favorite vendor (i use Avid-RC). The kit should come with bearings for the steering bellcranks. Also, grab a Kimbrough Heavy Duty servo saver. Install all this (and maybe your favorite servo too). When you mount the servo, add a washer or two to raise the servo - it tends to drag the chassis. Last check every ball link in the steering, and tweek as needed- they tend to bind out of the box. This sounds like a lot, but it is only about a half hour worth of work, and it helps the steering a tremendous amount.
The problem with the stock shocks is they start to leak, and don't stop leaking, other than that they actually work very well.I might hold off on the hex's just because I plan on changing out the tires eventually anyway. Are the stock shocks not enough?
The problem with the stock shocks is they start to leak, and don't stop leaking, other than that they actually work very well.
YesOh, I see, thanks. Do the Typhon shocks have metal bodies?
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