Kraton Something So Small

[5AFE CRACKER]

Hey team just thought I'd share this with yas. Yesterday I was out for a bash decided to do some ramp jumps everything seemed fine and was having a blast after a few hard hits and a couple kart wheels I noticed my diffs started to click but only when quick squeezing in bursts on throttle decided to call it a day and not press my luck any further to avoid any more damage. This morning when removing my rear diff to further diagnose I found both satellite pins had broke in 3 places lucky me I had just recently purchased some spares so I was able to fix no problem everything is back together and I was able to change out the fluid and added 20k in the rear. So far I have 200k centre 20k rear. I have not done the front yet I have 50k for it just have not got around to doing it yet I believe the front is still stock as it seems to be the easiest to spin. Not what I really want I'd like the power to go to the rear more to help prevent front wheel ballooning. I did also notice a small chip/piece missing from 1 of the teeth on the rear diff spur gear? It's the bigger one not sure if this happened at the same time or before I've never noticed a difference until yesterday with the clicking sound started. Should I find a replacement spur or would it be ok to run? I don't have a spare atm and it would take probably a week or so for replacement to arrive its not totally missing just a bit ground off the top on 1 tooth. I just finished rebuilding the rear diff and just don't want to do more potential damage to the diff if it would. thoughts?

 

[olds97_lss]

If you replace the ring gear, it's a good idea to replace the pinion as the pinion wears faster than the ring gear (larger diff spur). With arrma diffs, it takes very very little material to be worn down for them to start skipping, even when shimmed well. The ring gear is thin and the ring/pinion teeth are shallow. With the torque we are cranking through them with 6S, they just don't hold up well and any damage they have because worse very fast.

You can kind of see here there are two teeth with the tips missing:

That's all it took for it to skip when I'd get heavy on the throttle or brake.

 

[Mattyd926]

I will just say this cause I have made that mistake more than once. If you have a significant chip out of one of those teeth you need to change both the input and spur. If not you will put it all back together go bashing and after 60 seconds you will regret not spending that 30 bucks. Then it’s get parts tear down build back up you get my drift here. I hate throwing money at maintenance but this my friend is a must. Good luck ?

 

[5AFE CRACKER]

Alright anyone have links or part numbers for what I will need also does it matter if it's 50T or 47T it's for the rear diff and is the input gear 10T?
Also is there something stronger then stock for these?

 

[northeastflyer]

AR310498 -
10T input gear

the front and rear diffs are the same part number:
AR220041 -
ARRMA Diff Set Front/Rear 43T Spiral KRATON

I recently just went through this. Found a ton of sand in my rear diff.

I’m about to replace the rear diff fluid and middle with 60 and 500 and will do the front as well when the new m2c pins arrive.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

Don’t land on throttle. This is the major reason for breaking gears