Granite Spare part check list

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Blurrrrp

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Just purchased 2 granite voltages for my boys 4 and 12. Plan on running them stock for now, on 2s lipo. What spare parts will I without a doubt need on hand?
 
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I recommend the differential and idler gear set (AR310765), spur gear (AR310764), the plastic outdrive cups (AR310862), and maybe spare chassis (AR320382) because both shock towers and the motor mount are all integrated with the chassis so breaks on any of those requires a full chassis swap, unfortunately.

Here's a post I made a while ago detailing all my experience with the Granite Voltage platform. It's got a lot of "what to expect" stuff in it as well as some upgrade tips/info.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/arrma-granite-voltage.25463/post-349772
 
For me only the spur (on which the idler gear wears over time, on brushless) and the plastic outdrive cups. And i just broke the chassis (shock tower), but it held for a long time.
 
Don’t bother buying the plastic out drives use the input shaft cup from the kraton AR310432 or I used the hot racing version they use two set screws HRAAON41C much better. Definitely the diff set you will more than likely break the output gear to the drive cups. Other than that the things pretty durable, my 9 year old has one and she is pretty rough on it.
 
My neighbor just picked up a voltage for his son. The son crashed the car over the weekend.

The front end suspension appears to be okay. However, when you try to steer the car to the left is doesn't sound like the servo wants to push left. The steering seems to be delayed as well when the car is on the ground. If the car is off the ground it seems to work decent. If the car is in reverse the front wheels will turn side to side (left to right) like it's going through a serpentine. To me it seems like some of the servo gears are stripped out. Does this sound correct?

If so, can you recommend a cost affective servo? I looked up the 15kg arrma servo and saw that it's $45. I am just trying to find a cheaper one if possible for my neighbor, but I also want to recommend one that will hold up.

Thank you in advance!
 
First i would try to remove the servo saver (there's a hole in the bottom of the chassis to access the screw), because it might be that the servo saver (which acts also as the servo horn) was moved and your steering is shifted. try steering without it and see if the servo moves/sounds ok. then attach it back while centered and see if it fixes it.

If the servo is caput, any servo with a 25t spline will do fine. is use JX 6221MG in mine and it's doing exceptionally well. When you install note that the new servo will use 3-wire connector (vs the stock that uses 5-wire), so you'll need to plug it to a different port on the ESC, there's a 3-wire port there as well as 5.
 
First i would try to remove the servo saver (there's a hole in the bottom of the chassis to access the screw), because it might be that the servo saver (which acts also as the servo horn) was moved and your steering is shifted. try steering without it and see if the servo moves/sounds ok. then attach it back while centered and see if it fixes it.

If the servo is caput, any servo with a 25t spline will do fine. is use JX 6221MG in mine and it's doing exceptionally well. When you install note that the new servo will use 3-wire connector (vs the stock that uses 5-wire), so you'll need to plug it to a different port on the ESC, there's a 3-wire port there as well as 5.

Thank you for the info! I’ll check the servo saver and servo tomorrow morning.

Thanks again!
 
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