Speed Run Cars - Old and New

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Gelatocat

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Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
Hi guys,

I'm excited to finish my new Limitless 8s build. I'm running a Castle X8S ESC/1650kv, and 30tpinion/39t spur. In the photo is my old speed run car, a HPI Vorza 6s with Monster RC upgrades (very big pinion/small spur) with Tekin motor/electronics and Viper ESC (out of business). The motor is 2000kv. The tires are Traxxas XO-1 slicks. This car was a beast. Bet the Limitless will beat it!

Cheers,

JC

IMG_3022.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Welcome to the forum!

Many others are going to mention this but make sure to change out those Deans battery connectors. Those will melt and you will lose the ability to stop the car at high speed. (they are rated to 50 amps and your castle ESC will go to 400+)
Most of us prefer the QS8 connectors or 8mm bullets for speed running.

Few others notes:
  • GRP tires are much better for grip
  • Disable the LVC in the castle link settings
  • Make sure to test your radio range and know that you will need over 1000 ft to run over 100 mph.
  • Slow throttle pulls make all the difference. Count it out 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 as you are going. Check logs and compare to see what works best for your setup.
  • Quality batteries makes a significant difference. Top recommended batteries would be the CNHL G+ series (70c) and Turnigy Graphene panthers, along with the SMC SRD line (although often sold out and hard to get).

Feel free to ask any questions. Our goal is to keep you from crashing and spending money on parts that wont help you achieve your goals.
 
Thanks brother. Just the info I was looking for. Got a stretched 6s typhon that's heading in the speed direction. Mmx8s, castle 1717. Hopping to get it dialed in nice and straight before breaking triple digits.
 
Hi guys,

I'm excited to finish my new Limitless 8s build. I'm running a Castle X8S ESC/1650kv, and 30tpinion/39t spur. In the photo is my old speed run car, a HPI Vorza 6s with Monster RC upgrades (very big pinion/small spur) with Tekin motor/electronics and Viper ESC (out of business). The motor is 2000kv. The tires are Traxxas XO-1 slicks. This car was a beast. Bet the Limitless will beat it!

Cheers,

JC

View attachment 214215
Welcome to the Arrma Fam! Looking forward to your future success!
 
Thanks guys. Waiting for some aluminum skid plates from---China. Taking a slow boat. Then I can build it in like a day. As an old guy (49) they didn't have RTRs/rollers much. Haven't built a kit in awhile. Last one was a Durango DESC410R. Best, Jonathan
 
Hi Welcome to the forum!

Many others are going to mention this but make sure to change out those Deans battery connectors. Those will melt and you will lose the ability to stop the car at high speed. (they are rated to 50 amps and your castle ESC will go to 400+)
Most of us prefer the QS8 connectors or 8mm bullets for speed running.

Few others notes:
  • GRP tires are much better for grip
  • Disable the LVC in the castle link settings
  • Make sure to test your radio range and know that you will need over 1000 ft to run over 100 mph.
  • Slow throttle pulls make all the difference. Count it out 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 as you are going. Check logs and compare to see what works best for your setup.
  • Quality batteries makes a significant difference. Top recommended batteries would be the CNHL G+ series (70c) and Turnigy Graphene panthers, along with the SMC SRD line (although often sold out and hard to get).

Feel free to ask any questions. Our goal is to keep you from crashing and spending money on parts that wont help you achieve your goals.
I'm looking for some new batteries since one of my CNHLs went south and the US warehouse is out.

It looks like all the larger batteries (9K maH) are pretty much non-existent with the exception of CHNL 90C. Which leaves me with smaller options of 5500-6000 maH, unless I want to run parallel/series setup. Which is lots of wires, messy and error prone.

Doing some math.
Amps = Capacity*C rating/1000
CNHL 9500@90C = 9500*90/1000 = 855 A
CNHL 5000@70C = 5000*70/1000 = 350 A

It appears I will be down on available current. Turnigy, SMC, etc which ones are least likely to self destruct with the lower capacity?
 
I'm looking for some new batteries since one of my CNHLs went south and the US warehouse is out.

It looks like all the larger batteries (9K maH) are pretty much non-existent with the exception of CHNL 90C. Which leaves me with smaller options of 5500-6000 maH, unless I want to run parallel/series setup. Which is lots of wires, messy and error prone.

Doing some math.
Amps = Capacity*C rating/1000
CNHL 9500@90C = 9500*90/1000 = 855 A
CNHL 5000@70C = 5000*70/1000 = 350 A

It appears I will be down on available current. Turnigy, SMC, etc which ones are least likely to self destruct with the lower capacity?
I think SMC and Turnigy get a lot of love around here but the yowoo graphene 6000 mah 100c are also extremely nice. My yowoo poop all over my cnhl 8000 mah 120c like literally no comparison. Yowoo the best battery I've tried so far out of cnhl, socokin, and zee. It seems like they don't lose punch regardless of what the voltage is.
 
I'm looking for some new batteries since one of my CNHLs went south and the US warehouse is out.

It looks like all the larger batteries (9K maH) are pretty much non-existent with the exception of CHNL 90C. Which leaves me with smaller options of 5500-6000 maH, unless I want to run parallel/series setup. Which is lots of wires, messy and error prone.

Doing some math.
Amps = Capacity*C rating/1000
CNHL 9500@90C = 9500*90/1000 = 855 A
CNHL 5000@70C = 5000*70/1000 = 350 A

It appears I will be down on available current. Turnigy, SMC, etc which ones are least likely to self destruct with the lower capacity?
The C ratings are completely bogus so you cannot use those in math sadly.
I'd stick with the G+ or Turnigy Panthers personally.

2021 list from RC groups where a guy tested a lot of batteries. Pretty much can look at the name of the lipo and the last column of Real C rating.:

All 2021 LPB Results.Jpg
 
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