Typhon Speed runner Typhon 6S ~ UK built fast, not bought fast

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It is great to see you on here again Philip. (y)
It was watching your videos that first got me interested in the whole "R/c speed runs" and obviously you have been some what inspirational to me (as well as helpful answering some of my questions).

I'm having a lot of fun with my Typhon and have made some good progress I think from what it was as standard. Hoping to get it all put back together after my first bump for a few runs on Sunday weather permitting.

Re: the rear wing ~ definitely going to address this issue sooner rather than later. Just need to decide on material to use, design etc and start trying to fabricate something. Any tips always welcome. Thanks.
i appreciate the kind words, and help where i can. i have used lexan and alum for wings. both work equally well. I look forward to your progress.
 
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So happy that it's all back together now. :D
In the end I had to replace the front lower suspension arm, a pivot ball, a shock mount pin and the lower hinge pin. Everything else seems to be straight and true.

I've re-checked my suspension measurements and measured from set points on the car to see it's equal on both sides. All I can do now is test run it ASAP to make sure that it tracks straight.

Weather is forecast as wet for tomorrow but Sunday should be dry. Fingers crossed I can get it out then. (y)
 
Was hoping to get the Typhon out Sunday but that is not going to happen now. :(
I have been doing some pre-run checks this evening and noticed 4WD was not working as it should as the front wheels weren't rotating, ...traced the issue to a missing pin on one of the out drive cups connected to my Hot Racing centre spool.

I can't see though how it has come out as the rubber o-ring designed to hold it in place is still intact (plus I added a drop of super glue to it when I originally assembled it). My best guess is that the glue didn't do its job and the pin fell out before I put the o-ring in place meaning that my last few speed runs were all done with only 2WD (rear wheel drive only).

Could be why I had my crash too??!
If only the rear wheels where being driven then it will have been only them braking, so essentially like pulling up the handbrake when trying to brake which caused the back end to step out of line.

More waiting for parts now. Grrrhhh.
 
I hate waiting for parts...???
I know right. I was positive this time that there was nothing else.

I mean I'm glad I found the problem rather than miss it and continue running the car like that but dam what a bummer. Battery is charged and everything. ?:LOL:
 
Maybe instead of the o ring, a piece of shrink tubing would work......
Thanks for the idea that's great. I will definitely try that. (y)

Looked and can't find the pin where I was working on my car so it's a mystery where that went. Definitely needs to be more secure next time.
 
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So happy that it's all back together now. :D
In the end I had to replace the front lower suspension arm, a pivot ball, a shock mount pin and the lower hinge pin. Everything else seems to be straight and true.

I've re-checked my suspension measurements and measured from set points on the car to see it's equal on both sides. All I can do now is test run it ASAP to make sure that it tracks straight.

Weather is forecast as wet for tomorrow but Sunday should be dry. Fingers crossed I can get it out then. (y)

those tires are not looking so good... how may passes do you have on them so far?
 
those tires are not looking so good... how may passes do you have on them so far?
A fair few including lots of shall we say practice and warm up runs. They do look better in person though and still have a good depth of tread on them which the picture doesn't capture.

I think the pin is the same diameter as the wheel pins, if that helps, just guessing.
I did check this before I ordered the pins I need because I have a few other spare parts and wondered if any of them would do.

They're different part numbers, I know that doesn't always necessarily mean different sizes but the drive cup pins I need are 2.25mmx9.8mm whereas the wheel hub pins are 2.5mmx16.8mm.

Thank you though all the same. (y)
 
Re: the rearwing ~ definitely going to address this issue sooner rather than later. Just need to decide on material to use, design etc and start trying to fabricate something. Any tips always welcome. Thanks.
[/QUOTE]
I just ordered an Outcast/Notorious wing which is considerably smaller to begin with, then used a Dremel to cut away most of the rear vertical section. This should reduce excessive drag.
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Look at any 1:1 hypercar, they all use wings and aero. The strakes help so keep them, just angle the wing up slightly in the front. You can also drill holes in the wing to reduce downforce. Those flat wings are useles, and those crazy “canards” are equally useless.
 
I just ordered an Outcast/Notorious wing which is considerably smaller to begin with, then used a Dremel to cut away most of the rear vertical section. This should reduce excessive drag.
That looks really good and a great idea.
Do let us know how you get on with it and if you have a thread (assuming you're doing or aiming for speed runs) where to follow you. (y)

Look at any 1:1 hypercar, they all use wings and aero. The strakes help so keep them, just angle the wing up slightly in the front. You can also drill holes in the wing to reduce downforce. Those flat wings are useles, and those crazy “canards” are equally useless.
I will definitely be taking ques from real world cars where possible for increased speed providing it translates into smaller scale.

I do take on board what others say, yourself included, but there are of course a lot of more knowledgeable people who have been doing speed runs themselves with a lot of testing so I wouldn't say those flat wings are useless as they obviously seem to work for some.
Half the fun is testing though and seeing if you can gain a mph here & there by changing things. (y)
 
Look at any 1:1 hypercar, they all use wings and aero. The strakes help so keep them, just angle the wing up slightly in the front. You can also drill holes in the wing to reduce downforce. Those flat wings are useles, and those crazy “canards” are equally useless.
Agreed. I feel the vertical strakes help with inline stability and are the main benefit over a simple flat wing. The drilling of holes is a good idea, especially for fine tuning.
 
That looks really good and a great idea.
Do let us know how you get on with it and if you have a thread (assuming you're doing or aiming for speed runs) where to follow you. (y)


Thanks. I don't have a thread. I'm pretty much just piggybacking off yours and the Journey to Speed thread by Dutch. Similar to your incremental and experimental approach, I want to see what I can do on stock electronics first. I don't aspire to hit triple digits anytime soon for fear of totaling my rig.
 
Thanks. I don't have a thread. I'm pretty much just piggybacking off yours and the Journey to Speed thread by Dutch. Similar to your incremental and experimental approach, I want to see what I can do on stock electronics first. I don't aspire to hit triple digits anytime soon for fear of totaling my rig.
I've been building up slowly on my runs because like you I don't want to destroy my buggy having an avoidable crash. Just trying to get a decent feeling for how the buggy handles at speed, how much input the steering needs as well as how to apply my throttle pressure accelerating.

I'm pretty sure now that my missing pin connecting my centre spool and drive cup for the front wheels was the cause of my minor bump as I said earlier in the thread so can't wait to get back out with the car this coming weekend "hopefully".

More than happy for you to share your results in this thread as well as use it for ideas, questions etc or whatever. I think the 3 of us can benefit from each others experiences as we go. (y)
 
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