Typhon Speed runner Typhon 6S ~ UK built fast, not bought fast

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Hey you and me both. :p
Mine should be over the 100mph mark as well with the gearing I'm running but it's not as easy as it looks to keep that throttle trigger pulled long enough for the motor to wind up properly especially where I'm running it currently (excuses I know, ha ha).

One mistake could be game over though needing more than just a few parts to get it up and running again so I'm being maybe a bit too cautious at times. Even phildogg commented about my last run on video that there was still room to use on that road.

I'm going to try turning my punch setting up one maybe for next time and definitely upping the brake strength to max.

We'll get there eventually I'm sure.
Yup. One mistake at these speeds and you may be better off buying a new Typhon and starting from scratch. Major set back regardless.
I too just bumped the brake strength to max. With the taller gearing I noticed immediately it doesn't brake near as quickly. I was also thinking to bump the punch setting in hopes of shortening the necessary runway to bring it up to speed.
 
Welcome to the forum. Question about cap packs: I understand they serve to reduce voltage sag or ripple under load. Does this translate into any measurable top speed gains or do cap packs serve more to protect the electronics?

When I was doing speed runs I was always using the XL-X or Max5 ESCs, which are in the ball park of $200
I had never tried running it hard without a cap-pack to measure speed differences. For myself, the purpose was to protect the electronics, but some have reported better performance using the cap packs. I hope that helps answer your question.
 
So I'm sure you have been using the hot racing spool for a bit now. How do you like it? Some people say it's hard to get the bearings to slide in and the o-rings have a tendency to come off and so the pins come out. Any tips for keeping the o-rings on? I just ordered one with a 34t spur for my typhon. Just don't know what size pinion to start with. Maybe a 23t. There's a minimum pinion size needed for the 34t spur, I just don't know what it is.
I like the Hot Racing spool apart from the poor design used for holding one of the drive cup pins in place.
I haven't had any issues with my bearings with the spool but did have the pin come out unknowingly to me at first which caused issues (loss of 4WD, crash under braking imho).

If you go back to page 6, post number 113 by myself in this thread you will see how I fixed that issue with the O-ring/pin arrangement as I don't use the O-ring anymore as I made an aluminium collar for the HR spool. I'd highly recommend doing something similar when you get yours to stop from having the same problem.
If you don't want to measure/cut aluminium like I did then maybe you could just use some bearings to slide over the top of the pin like @cootertwo did to fix his spool (he maybe mentioned the size of the bearings a few pages back).

As for the pinion gear size tbh I don't know about minimum sizes to go with specific size spur gears as I've just experimented with mine and wherever possible asked other speed runners about the sizes they've used as well as watched countless YouTube videos.
I'd maybe try starting a little bigger with the pinion gear as you can run a 23T pinion with the standard 50T spur gear on the Typhon anyway so with the 34T you've bought I'd maybe be looking at mid-high 20's (like 25T and above).

I will say imho it is a good idea to start off slow and build up to higher speeds so you can get the feel for how your Typhon handles at speed, to your remote inputs and on the road you're running it on. So starting with a 23T pinion might not be the worst idea. ;)


I too just bumped the brake strength to max. With the taller gearing I noticed immediately it doesn't brake near as quickly. I was also thinking to bump the punch setting in hopes of shortening the necessary runway to bring it up to speed.
It does take a while to slow down now which did surprise me at first, ...I mean they do weigh in at around 4kg with batteries though so it shouldn't be a surprise it takes time to slow when coming from over 80mph.

Do let me know how you get on with the punch setting. I'm going to adjust mine Easter weekend when hopefully I'll get another chance to take the Typhon out for a run. (y)

For anyone reading this that wants to know how to adjust their punch/brake settings this video is the best one I've found for showing you how to do it (it is in the manual too but watching someone do it is often more helpful I find).
 
I don't remember the bearing size, but I got them out of my Avid bearing kit for a Typhon. I think it's the same size as the outer axle bearings. 2, side by side fits perfectly, and covers the pin.
 
I don't remember the bearing size, but I got them out of my Avid bearing kit for a Typhon. I think it's the same size as the outer axle bearings. 2, side by side fits perfectly, and covers the pin.
So you cut the bearing apart to end up with just the inside part? Do you think shrink tube in the right size might work? Just put it right over the o- ring and shrink it down snug?
 
Thats a really good setup,I would be inclined to drill a hole for the grub screw then use a longer screw so it acts like a pin for the spur..?
I could see his spur design coming loose on the shaft maybe, but who knows it could work..??

I must stop reading this.. or my wallet is going to take another beating..???

Voices inside my head " must buy Typhon, must buy Typhon, must buy Typhon " ?
 
Thats a really good setup,I would be inclined to drill a hole for the grub screw then use a longer screw so it acts like a pin for the spur..?
I could see his spur design coming loose on the shaft maybe, but who knows it could work..??

I must stop reading this.. or my wallet is going to take another beating..???

Voices inside my head " must buy Typhon, must buy Typhon, must buy Typhon " ?
You need to buy Typhon!
 
The bearings I used, were right out of the bag. No cutting, just slid 2 on side by side. Fit perfect.
 
The bearings I used, were right out of the bag. No cutting, just slid 2 on side by side. Fit perfect.
Can you share a photo? I'm having trouble visualizing how it's assembled. The bearings would have to go on first. Then the outdrive cup/shaft, then the cross-pin. How does the cross pin get inserted if the bearings are covering the cross-pin hole?
 
You need to have it in your hands, to understand. There is enough room to get the pin in, then slide the bearings over, and the support brace holds everything snug when installed on the chassis.
 
Can you share a photo? I'm having trouble visualizing how it's assembled. The bearings would have to go on first. Then the outdrive cup/shaft, then the cross-pin. How does the cross pin get inserted if the bearings are covering the cross-pin hole?
@cootertwo fix would work as mine does pictured below when assembling except instead of the aluminium piece I've used it would just be two bearings side by side ~ so his would look identical to mine below before fitting except his would have had 3 bearings on the right hand side (1 on the left so 4 total on the spool).
33.JPG


I hope that makes sense to you and @Erstadw . (y)
 
@cootertwo fix would work as mine does pictured below when assembling except instead of the aluminium piece I've used it would just be two bearings side by side ~ so his would look identical to mine below before fitting except his would have had 3 bearings on the right hand side (1 on the left so 4 total on the spool).
View attachment 35701

I hope that makes sense to you and @Erstadw . (y)
Thanks. I see it now. Once placed between motor and center diff mount the bearing and aluminum sleeve are forced to move toward the spur gear, thus covering the cross-pin.
 
Thanks. I see it now. Once placed between motor and center diff mount the bearing and aluminum sleeve are forced to move toward the spur gear, thus covering the cross-pin.
You got it. ;)

Works a treat, ...I'm surprised Hot Racing didn't come up with it themselves.
 
You should patent and sell your solution to them LOL. Hopefully they read the reviews and forum talk, recognize it's a common problem and implement a solution. Their overall product lineup is pretty solid otherwise. Arrma has done a great job with their V4 improvements. They've obviously listened to the community and addressed many of the common problem areas.
 
Went out today with the idea of doing some testing with the new "punch" and "brake" settings more than trying to get some speed runs done but obviously that's what I did as well.

I have now set my punch setting at level 8 and the brake is set at the maximum which is 50%.
I progressively accelerate and try to be as smooth as possible so as long as you do that I can't see a problem with having the punch setting right at the maximum.

The weather was a bit too hot for speed runs though and the Typhon shut down twice due to excessive motor heat or possibly the ESC spazzing out. Either way left it to cool down for 5-10 minutes each time and it was fine afterwards. Temperature was 23 degrees C or 73 odd in Fahreheit.
Below having a cool down, plus side was the GRP's were extra sticky today.

43.JPG


With my battery quickly fading I did try a few runs beating my previous PB with a fairly modest 83mph which I was pleased with.
My GPS seems to be playing up though as a few runs were not recorded correctly (showed a much lower speed than it should have) and now at home the GPS logger is not working stating an error when trying to download the saved data. :confused:

Oh and in case you were wondering the brakes are much better set up at the maximum so I highly recommend doing that to all the speed runners using the standard ESC still.
 
I'm currently waiting on a "few" things for the Typhon but I did get a delivery yesterday from Hobbyking, albeit with an incorrect motor fan sent instead of the one I ordered so yet more waiting. :rolleyes:

44.JPG



What I'm doing next is addressing my motor heat issues which is what some of the bits are for in that box. I bought two cheap blue aluminium heatsinks from Hk so am de-anodizing them as I don't like the colour.
Heatsinks available here: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/alloy-m...ffiliate_code=ZDVJBUCXUIIIETS&_asc=3147974850

To do this I used "caustic soda" in a glass jar leaving the heatsinks to soak for around 30-45 minutes before removing and washing in soapy water using a toothbrush.
45.JPG



The finished parts which I think look much better.
46.JPG



The next thing I have to do is re-tap the threads of the holes in the heatsinks as they're a peculiar size. Don't have any taps at home so it's a 5 minute job for Monday morning in work before starting for the day. Hopefully it will all work and I can trial fit the fans I have then next week.
 
Agreed, they do look much better! Very clean
Thanks.
The blue just wouldn't have worked imo whereas I think the silver shouldn't look too out of place amongst the red and black colours on the Typhon.

The heatsinks are made for a smaller motor (36mm) but they feel like they should stretch out with some minor encouragement. I won't be doing that though until I've fitted the fans to the heatsinks just incase it alters the screw mounting points. Plus I need to tap the threads first like I said.
 
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