Talion Spektrum radio is gash!!!

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I've had £50 toys from bangood with better radios, be better if arrma sold minus the radio and receiver
It's common. There are better radios included with worse trucks. Ready to run doesn't mean infallible or perfect and I'm sure you know this.
What many do is find a radio system they like and put all their trucks on it. Easily cheaper in the long run. I have my best and my cheapest all on the same radio and receiver system.
Arrma is aware and I will bet all my STX2 radios with rx that they'll change it when the next versions release. ??
 
I’m honestly surprised none of the mad scientists here have ever cracked one open and tried to fix/improve the stx, guess it’s not really worth the trouble with $35 replacements available but it would be neat to see someone try.
They are so bad JBIRC is selling them for 9.99....
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It's common. There are better radios included with worse trucks. Ready to run doesn't mean infallible or perfect and I'm sure you know this.
What many do is find a radio system they like and put all their trucks on it. Easily cheaper in the long run. I have my best and my cheapest all on the same radio and receiver system.
Arrma is aware and I will bet all my STX2 radios with rx that they'll change it when the next versions release. ??
Yeah I've got absima and sanwa radios with 10 model memories, it's going on the absima now, just don't understand why arrma would supply with what is really a 'faulty' radio, be better and safer supllied with no radio.
 
Burn you BAS@#RD
They are so bad JBIRC is selling them for 9.99....
View attachment 86891
They are so bad JBIRC is selling them for 9.99....
View attachment 86891
First time out with brand new talion, noticed on first couple runs radio was a bit laggy, now and then wouldnt respond to inputs immediately about 0.5 second delay.

Well it decided not to respond to a steering input as the thing went straight on and under some railings!! Couldnt get to the car as had gone inside a locked area but luckily it drove out on 3 wheels!

Think I've just popped a ball out, just gonna inspect and change to sanwa radio set. Lasted 10 mins before damaged! Oh well, suppose could've been lot worse, anyone else have similar issues with the standard spektrum radio?

View attachment 86830View attachment 86831
It's common. There are better radios included with worse trucks. Ready to run doesn't mean infallible or perfect and I'm sure you know this.
What many do is find a radio system they like and put all their trucks on it. Easily cheaper in the long run. I have my best and my cheapest all on the same radio and receiver system.
Arrma is aware and I will bet all my STX2 radios with rx that they'll change it when the next versions release. ??
 

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Are these radios still being included with the newest in stock models at local stores? Any updates on them changing the radio?
 
Are these radios still being included with the newest in stock models at local stores? Any updates on them changing the radio?
Some of the newest releases have been getting the STX3, but until any of the 2020 models drop, we can’t know for sure.
 
Yeah I've got absima and sanwa radios with 10 model memories, it's going on the absima now, just don't understand why arrma would supply with what is really a 'faulty' radio, be better and safer supllied with no radio.
Now just realised rear shock tower is bent as a nine bob note, excellent....
I'll post the
That’s one way to show em how you feel ?????????
I'll post the burned radio to them and say here you go I've improved it
 
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Now just realised rear shock tower is bent as a nine bob note, excellent....
I'll post the
I'll post the burned radio to them and say here you go I've improved it
Even Dearden has said on social media that he doesn't blame us for changing the radio. I don't fault Arrma at all. I think it was part of the Arrma merging with Horizon Hobby deal and it damages Spektrum brand too. I'll bet everyone involved regrets the decision. Especially considering the Tactic TTX radio system that Arrma chose from the early days is so much better. Even so much as to create a respectable market for the used ones that folks sell off after they switch to a universal system they prefer. I still have two Tactics with receivers that I'm holding on to and have sold off three. One I still run on the Typhon because I haven't felt inclined to change to what I use on everything else.

You have a bent Talion tower? I need to switch to M2C on mine (Talion) and have them on deck but haven't done it. If you want the stock one I'll motivate and send it to you. You'll probably want to upgrade though.
 
Even Dearden has said on social media that he doesn't blame us for changing the radio. I don't fault Arrma at all. I think it was part of the Arrma merging with Horizon Hobby deal and it damages Spektrum brand too. I'll bet everyone involved regrets the decision. Especially considering the Tactic TTX radio system that Arrma chose from the early days is so much better. Even so much as to create a respectable market for the used ones that folks sell off after they switch to a universal system they prefer. I still have two Tactics with receivers that I'm holding on to and have sold off three. One I still run on the Typhon because I haven't felt inclined to change to what I use on everything else.

You have a bent Talion tower? I need to switch to M2C on mine (Talion) and have them on deck but haven't done it. If you want the stock one I'll motivate and send it to you. You'll probably want to upgrade though.
How much you want for it mate what would P&P be to UK? I'm thinking of upgrading to Titanium shock towers from scorched parts RC here in uk. Managed to straighten drive shaft (nearly perfect, vibrates a little still) enough to actually drive the thing today (borrowed an absima receiver from another car) the thing is awesome I love it need.to try some different pinion sizes, although will wait til weather cools a bit and get a motor heat sink and fan, the motor was scorching
 
How much you want for it mate what would P&P be to UK? I'm thinking of upgrading to Titanium shock towers from scorched parts RC here in uk. Managed to straighten drive shaft (nearly perfect, vibrates a little still) enough to actually drive the thing today (borrowed an absima receiver from another car) the thing is awesome I love it need.to try some different pinion sizes, although will wait til weather cools a bit and get a motor heat sink and fan, the motor was scorching
I didn't realize you weren't in the US or I'd send it with no cost. I reckon whatever it costs to send it over? I don't mean to sound reluctant but you may do better picking a stock one up on your side. Either way, I'll be happy to send both towers but will take a day or two to remove them and install the M2C I have on hand. I have a scale here in the shop and would be able to get a weight for postage but the towers are still on the vehicle lol
 
I didn't realize you weren't in the US or I'd send it with no cost. I reckon whatever it costs to send it over? I don't mean to sound reluctant but you may do better picking a stock one up on your side. Either way, I'll be happy to send both towers but will take a day or two to remove them and install the M2C I have on hand. I have a scale here in the shop and would be able to get a weight for postage but the towers are still on the vehicle lol
Wow Thanks for the offer my Talion brother! ????? it's ok dude think I'll order a Ti tower from scorched parts, and not drive it anymore until I get tower and driveshaft cos don't wan the bent driveshaft to damage bearings etc in diff. Suppose one good thing at least I'm not worried about damaging the car anymore?
The red aluminium wheel hex has a 2.5mm hex grub screw at it's centre which holds that pin in. Use a heat source (I use a mini gas torch) to heat up the hex and soften the thread lock before you try to unscrew it because Arrma uses a lot of thread lock on it. And definitely use a decent hex driver, such as a MIP driver
Got the grub screw out, you was right, lashed in thread lock and tight as a ducks, actually snapped a power bit (bamggoods finest) in my drill!
Thanks for the advice warming up did the trick, hate to think what would do if rounded it off, seems like a cracking idea to thread lock the life out of a grub screw which is hard to access and wouldn't matter if came loose with wheel on anyway lol
 
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Wow Thanks for the offer my Talion brother! ????? it's ok dude think I'll order a Ti tower from scorched parts, and not drive it anymore until I get tower and driveshaft cos don't wan the bent driveshaft to damage bearings etc in diff. Suppose one good thing at least I'm not worried about damaging the car anymore?

Got the grub screw out, you was right, lashed in thread lock and tight as a ducks, actually snapped a power bit (bamggoods finest) in my drill!
Thanks for the advice warming up did the trick, hate to think what would do if rounded it off, seems like a cracking idea to thread lock the life out of a grub screw which is hard to access and wouldn't matter if came loose with wheel on anyway lol
I always wondered that about that particular grub screw.. like why? Haha. I think the assemblers get bored and bath the screws in loctite for fun...
 
Had a runaway that ended in a ditch. Parked all the STX2s on the shelf of shame!
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Wow, you've got a lot of RCs!! Burn em like me more satisfying!! Always wonder why they cant do same as what they do with helicopters and sell as BNF or an option with no radio gear at all? Most people who spend that sort of cash on an rc will be well into the hobby and have their own radio anyway, and want nothing to do with a low end POS radio. Just imagine if you didnt know much about the hobby and just thought it was a poop car, when it is only the radio, that would be awful because the Talion is absolutely epic! Need to resist driving it anymore until get replacement drive shaft?
 
You tube channel Claire’s rc
Has a fix for this Radio.
i has the same problem With my Typhon I crashed it in to the curb scuffed up the wheel nuts since then it won’t steer straight, I’ve taken the steering out twice inspected it cannot see any thing wrong but every time I full power. The car decides to pull to one side
 
The red aluminium wheel hex has a 2.5mm hex grub screw at it's centre which holds that pin in. Use a heat source (I use a mini gas torch) to heat up the hex and soften the thread lock before you try to unscrew it because Arrma uses a lot of thread lock on it. And definitely use a decent hex driver, such as a MIP driver
Do you ever try tapping on the end of your hex driver to get that grub screw out? Wondering if that would work? I have to pull mine off and I'm a bit worried about stripping them. I have good tools but I don't have a heat gun. I have a weller 140/100 watt soldering gun. It has a large chisel tip though and if I stuff it in there it just barely makes contact with the grub screw before the tip wedges against the walls of the axle, stopping it from making a good solid contact. Wondering if tapping it would work? The soldering gun will probably heat it up but it's going to heat up everything around the grub screw as well though.. the price for stripping that grub is kinda high.
 
Heat up the whole thing from the outside if you have to. And even if you strip it, you can probably punch the pin that it holds out anyway.
 
I got a cheap ($28.00) dumborc with the gyro that works GREAT! compared it to the STX2 and it makes the STX2 worth about $6.00. I still have my STX2 ready to take it apart one day when its raining. the stx2 is real crap, surprise it's still around.
 
Do you ever try tapping on the end of your hex driver to get that grub screw out? Wondering if that would work? I have to pull mine off and I'm a bit worried about stripping them. I have good tools but I don't have a heat gun. I have a weller 140/100 watt soldering gun. It has a large chisel tip though and if I stuff it in there it just barely makes contact with the grub screw before the tip wedges against the walls of the axle, stopping it from making a good solid contact. Wondering if tapping it would work? The soldering gun will probably heat it up but it's going to heat up everything around the grub screw as well though.. the price for stripping that grub is kinda high.
I've never had issues with these wheel hex grub screws. I actually worked on them when I first got my car to see how it all worked. an MIP driver and a mini gas torch made quick work of it and I used blue thread lock to keep them in afterwards. As long as you don't direct an open flame or contact the iron on the plastic hub, you'll be fine heating it. It's not recommended but you can even run your car without the grub screws, they're just precautionary
 
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