Senton Starting to lose faith in 3s range.

[Country Boy]

I own a Senton and a Big Rock and both are good fun cars but I'm getting tired of the constant wrenching on them. I know its all part of the hobby but it feels like there's something to fix or replace after every session and I don't bash really hard. In the last few weeks I've had a seized motor a blown esc, 2 spur gears shredded etc. I recently just bought an X Maxx and have run about 8-10 packs through it and have yet to even have to tighten anything on it. I think I would like a Mojave or Kraton 6s to accompany the X Maxx now as I think I prefer driving the bigger rigs.

 

[theekorr]

Seems it is a roll of the dice. My experience has been the opposite. My 3s rigs have been all but bulletproof while I spend much more time wrenching and adjusting things on the bigger more powerful ones.

 

[Boggs3010]

I have a Senton. Other then tires I haven't replaced a single part. 9 months old. On the other hand my Felony/V2 eat ESC's. As of late their appetite has decreased.

 

[Armarookie43]

I own a Senton and a Big Rock and both are good fun cars but I'm getting tired of the constant wrenching on them. I know its all part of the hobby but it feels like there's something to fix or replace after every session and I don't bash really hard. In the last few weeks I've had a seized motor a blown esc, 2 spur gears shredded etc. I recently just bought an X Maxx and have run about 8-10 packs through it and have yet to even have to tighten anything on it. I think I would like a Mojave or Kraton 6s to accompany the X Maxx now as I think I prefer driving the bigger rigs.

The V3 Granite has been pretty durable for me. The biggest weakness is the motor mount (replaced with m2c) and the plastic spur gear. After that, it's been pretty good. I did snap off a front driveshaft and destroyed the rear ring gear and output drive because I was doing the self riding thing. But yeah. Pretty durable.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Quality control issues strike again. My experience with the 3s range has been good and they are so easy to work on.

Since January my Big Rock has done a servo, 1 rear diff, one snapped axle screw and 1 spur. I estimate that's has 100 packs through it.

Vorteks has done 1 rear diff, 2 spurs, one sized motor and 1 dead servo. That's after everyday use for 6 weeks.

Your motor should be replaced under warranty.

Or sell em and stick to the XMaxx.

 

[Ferrebee88]

I own a Senton and a Big Rock and both are good fun cars but I'm getting tired of the constant wrenching on them. I know its all part of the hobby but it feels like there's something to fix or replace after every session and I don't bash really hard. In the last few weeks I've had a seized motor a blown esc, 2 spur gears shredded etc. I recently just bought an X Maxx and have run about 8-10 packs through it and have yet to even have to tighten anything on it. I think I would like a Mojave or Kraton 6s to accompany the X Maxx now as I think I prefer driving the bigger rigs.

I currently own a mojave exb and have owned a kraton exb. Both are awesome and 2 completely different animals. The kraton will give you stability and jumps way better. The mojave will give you more of a driving challenge (I have a max6/1650kv combo and it is hard to keep the wheels on the ground). For best all around I would recommend the kraton. I also have an xmaxx, so I can give a pretty good comparison.

 

[Jackske]

The senton, whas/is our problemchild.
Coming loose of the spur, he always rips the spurgear, it's the third motor now, and drive shafts are terrible. Most problems are fixed for now, but driveshafts ... I can not believe that others drive the senton on 4 or 6s without driveshaft issues. Even our raider blx are more durable.

But I must admit, he drives awesome when he's not broken.
The arrma 6s rigs I own are very tough.

Like everything u have to be lucky.

And keep in mint, they getting faster and faster nothing is unbreakable

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

The 3s line is made for 3s, with a 3s capable drivetrain. Run it on 4s or 6s you going to break stuff

 

[LibertyMKiii]

That is odd, I always hear about how the 3s line is so much more reliable than the 6s.
I had an X-Maxx 8s and couldn't handle the cost of repairs. A $280 dollar set of Pro-Line tires made me sick...
Plus that truck ate diffs for breakfast.

I am not calling you out on neglecting your RCs or bad driving style, but wonder if there is anything you could do in those areas to improve the durability?
Landing on throttle will eat diffs on any RC, no matter how well built it is. I'd assume spur gears is the same plus properly maintaining the slipper tightness. Locked motors generally comes from over heating or bearing maintenance. Cheap brushless motors benefit from better bearings for sure!

Again just general statements that maybe you could look into to increase the longevity of the RC cars?

 

[Country Boy]

Quality control issues strike again. My experience with the 3s range has been good and they are so easy to work on.

Since January my Big Rock has done a servo, 1 rear diff, one snapped axle screw and 1 spur. I estimate that's has 100 packs through it.

Vorteks has done 1 rear diff, 2 spurs, one sized motor and 1 dead servo. That's after everyday use for 6 weeks.

Your motor should be replaced under warranty.

Or sell em and stick to the XMaxx.

I suppose its luck of the draw, the Senton to be fair has been better than the BR but even then it chewed its spur to bits after 5 mins this weekend and the esc is starting to make a weird crackling sound. I must admit since picking up the X Maxx I haven't had the motivation to fix the BR. I will always keep the Senton and might sell the BR as a non runner or keep it for spares.

 

[GRC]

Most likely you're seizing motors and shredding spur gears because of dirt in the power module. Motor bearings will seize if you don't take steps to prevent it.
I'd say the first step you should take is making a hole in the chassis to let dirt out or sealing up the power module as described here: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/help-me-upgrade-my-senton-3s-for-sand.20322/post-297587

Other steps include
- Rubber sealed (ceramic) motor bearings
- Shimming the slipper so it doesn't rub the power module and create that black dust that can get into the motor. (HPI Gearbox Spacers - Part #101291)
- Using an o-ring and washer to seal off the motor as described here: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/blx-motor.20999/page-2 Even with all the other measures, the gradual wearing down of the slipper gear and pinion still creates fine dust which can get into the motor.

Another cause of shredded spur gears is a bent motor plate. It may not look bent, but take it out, lay both sides on a flat surface and check if it wobbles. I got an M2C motor plate, but Arrma just released a thicker 6mm motor plate https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA311106

I have not had motor or spur gear problems since taking these steps. I'm running the same motor bearings since last July.

 

[Jon NC RC]

I own a Senton and a Big Rock and both are good fun cars but I'm getting tired of the constant wrenching on them. I know its all part of the hobby but it feels like there's something to fix or replace after every session and I don't bash really hard. In the last few weeks I've had a seized motor a blown esc, 2 spur gears shredded etc. I recently just bought an X Maxx and have run about 8-10 packs through it and have yet to even have to tighten anything on it. I think I would like a Mojave or Kraton 6s to accompany the X Maxx now as I think I prefer driving the bigger rigs.

Sorry you have had this experience. My Senton and
Mojave have both been pretty reliable. I should do better maintenance on mine and that is the very next item of business before we take them out for another round of bash and smash.

Hard to know what to do sometimes isn't it? One general rule to keep in mind though is, the bigger the rig the more expensive the cost, not just up front but in repairs also.

I am looking at bigger rigs some from Arrma.....plus some you have mentioned .......but maybe some of the suggestions that the other guys have thrown out there can help......

I know I need to service my bearings in all my rigs.

 

[Ferrebee88]

Maintenence is something we like tomforget about, but is key. I learned this lesson with my Losi DBXLE 2.0. I didnt check all the locktite on the screws as was suggested by others. I had the pin come out of the fron driveshaft and just about destroy my front spindles/hun carriers. Every couple of runs I like to check for tightness on the screws and check the mesh. You cannot rely on factory setup no matter what brand!!!!! Mass production = mistakes!

 

[Country Boy]

Most likely you're seizing motors and shredding spur gears because of dirt in the power module. Motor bearings will seize if you don't take steps to prevent it.
I'd say the first step you should take is making a hole in the chassis to let dirt out or sealing up the power module as described here: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/help-me-upgrade-my-senton-3s-for-sand.20322/post-297587

Other steps include
- Rubber sealed (ceramic) motor bearings
- Shimming the slipper so it doesn't rub the power module and create that black dust that can get into the motor. (HPI Gearbox Spacers - Part #101291)
- Using an o-ring and washer to seal off the motor as described here: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/blx-motor.20999/page-2 Even with all the other measures, the gradual wearing down of the slipper gear and pinion still creates fine dust which can get into the motor.

Another cause of shredded spur gears is a bent motor plate. It may not look bent, but take it out, lay both sides on a flat surface and check if it wobbles. I got an M2C motor plate, but Arrma just released a thicker 6mm motor plate https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA311106

I have not had motor or spur gear problems since taking these steps. I'm running the same motor bearings since last July.

I have taped off the motor holes but I could try your tips, thanks. I've ordered a new spur so I'll give it a look over this weekend.

Sorry you have had this experience. My Senton and
Mojave have both been pretty reliable. I should do better maintenance on mine and that is the very next item of business before we take them out for another round of bash and smash.

Hard to know what to do sometimes isn't it? One general rule to keep in mind though is, the bigger the rig the more expensive the cost, not just up front but in repairs also.

I am looking at bigger rigs some from Arrma.....plus some you have mentioned .......but maybe some of the suggestions that the other guys have thrown out there can help......

I know I need to service my bearings in all my rigs.

What do you service the bearings with?

 

[TheBadazz]

When something breaks get a warranty replacement and upgrade. Get metal spur, get a replacement motor, get a better one. Maybe sell the replacement one.

I love Arrma but that 3200kv motor needs better bearings. I have a new Vorteks, I might replace the bearing before the first run.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Yep bearings in my Vorteks motor didn't last long. I've been running a $30 surpass hobby that doesn't seem to mind the dust and rubbish. I haven't done any power module sealing or drilled holes in the chassis. BUT I remove the power module daily for cleaning ... it needs it. I'm super impressed with the SH motor.

 

[TheBadazz]

Do you have a link for that motor? I might change the motor in the Vorteks and Big Rock.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

I use banggood, Amazon has similar stuff

https://banggood.app.link/byq0vGvCthb

Note the Arrma pinions don't fit even though it has a 5mm shaft. SH pinions are cheap as anyway.

I ordered the 3665 3800kv just for the hell of it.

 

[Jackske]

I have the metal slipper of the kraton, made a hole in the chassis under the spur, and till this moment it works fine. We drive al lot in loose sand. And replaced new sealed motorbearing.

 

[Jon NC RC]

I have taped off the motor holes but I could try your tips, thanks. I've ordered a new spur so I'll give it a look over this weekend.

What do you service the bearings with?

That is a rather extensive subject. Sorry for getting wordy here. I am using some of my deductive reasoning on all of this after investigating various different things.
To begin with there are things that you need to do and need not to do. I am forever grateful that I have an air compressor, just a cheap little pancake air compressor $100 unit. I originally bought it as part of a nail gun package to do trim work in my house, but it comes in handy with these RC cars. After every run I thoroughly clean the rig with the air blower attachment.

There are a lot of people that like to use WD-40 on plastic parts as it makes them more supple. But one has to be extremely careful with WD-40 around bearings. Bearings appreciate lubrication and WD40 is NOT a lubricant. I have treated the plastic on my rigs with WD-40 but I am very quick to blow it off especially around the bearings cuz I don't want it to get into the bearings.

Another substance to use instead is simple Green and that does not seem to have as much of an effect on the lubrication inside the bearings. Plus it does a very good job at cleaning.

To really do an effective job there are some videos under the drivetrain section of the forum about doing a really top-notch job with bearings and bearing replacement. In the meantime general purpose oils, white lithium grease or Marine Grease are effective as temporary maintenance.
Be sure to try to wipe off any excess to prevent dirt and Gunk build up. That has been my observation.
I'm sure there are better and more complete ways of doing bearings but that has gotten me by so far.