Senton Starting to lose faith in 3s range.

[Paul777]

I'd agree with what others have mentioned - (been there done most of what you mentioned) for me it came down to the motor bearings going bad, the stock ones are junk and the pinion end one fails fast. Replace it with decent quality sealed bearing and you'll have a lot less grief. I use a hybrid ceramic in mine and it has already lasted 10x longer than the original and still has no play. I also opt for the cut-a-hole-in-the-chassis method of stopping dirt build up in the slipper housing, otherwise a lump gets in there as a few minutes later your spur is toast. (You've reminded me I need to check the bearing on my recently acquired Senton)

 

[Country Boy]

I'd agree with what others have mentioned - (been there done most of what you mentioned) for me it came down to the motor bearings going bad, the stock ones are junk and the pinion end one fails fast. Replace it with decent quality sealed bearing and you'll have a lot less grief. I use a hybrid ceramic in mine and it has already lasted 10x longer than the original and still has no play. I also opt for the cut-a-hole-in-the-chassis method of stopping dirt build up in the slipper housing, otherwise a lump gets in there as a few minutes later your spur is toast. (You've reminded me I need to check the bearing on my recently acquired Senton)

What size is the bearing?

 

[Paul777]

What size is the bearing?

5x16x5
I used these last time https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253794300521
Easiest way I have found to remove the bearing is to remove the core from the motor, put an M6 bolt onto the bearing and put the whole thing in a vice to squeeze it gently.

The one at the other end is a different size but tends to be ok, some have had to change it (requires bread - forum search will explain!) but I've been ok to far.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

This is why I opted for a different motor as opposed to fitting a new bearing. For the cost of bearings and the fun of changing them, for only a little more cash I get to experiment with some different power configurations. Plus the orange can of the Surpass motor looks cool

 

[hobo]

Maintenence is something we like tomforget about, but is key. I learned this lesson with my Losi DBXLE 2.0. I didnt check all the locktite on the screws as was suggested by others. I had the pin come out of the fron driveshaft and just about destroy my front spindles/hun carriers. Every couple of runs I like to check for tightness on the screws and check the mesh. You cannot rely on factory setup no matter what brand!!!!! Mass production = mistakes!

I check em after two battery packs. tyres mostly and a quick wipe down and screw check

 

[Country Boy]

This is why I opted for a different motor as opposed to fitting a new bearing. For the cost of bearings and the fun of changing them, for only a little more cash I get to experiment with some different power configurations. Plus the orange can of the Surpass motor looks cool

What motor specs should I be looking at?

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

3660 can 3300kv is stock I went with the Surpass Hobby equivalent because I intend to run it on 3s only.

I have ordered one with a slightly bigger can and higher kv just to try - 3665 3800kv , might put that in my Senton when it arrives. Should still be ok on 3s kv maybe a tad high but for the cost, it's dirt cheap

 

[morrjr71]

Yesterday I put a Surpass 3670/2850 in my Typhon 3s. I chose to go down a bit in kv (3200 to 2850) for more torque but up in pinion size (15T to 18T) in an effort to keep the top speed near the same as stock. The top speed works well for me, and the increased torque really helps power my heavy Pro-Line belted Trenchers.

 

[Hainesy]

I ordered the 3665 3800kv just for the hell of it.

What ESC are you running that with - presumably not the stock BLX100?

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Yeah stock Spectrum 100. Motor hasn't arrived yet but the 3660 3300kv variant works great so I assume this will be ok too.

 

[Unsprung1]

A lot depends on maintenance of any RC, unless it goes up in flames on its first run like my 2 X-Max’s V-1 did on X-Mass day a few years ago! I pull the body and blow everything out as soon a I get don bashing/ crawling / mudin’ . I use WD-40 very sparingly, as said it’s not a lubricant, it’s actually designed to expel moisture, just like armor all, so eventually it will impregnate and weaken anything made of plastic. I use gun oil very sparingly, doesn’t dry out anything, just wipe it off or it collects gunk! Here in the North Carolina the red clay will start rusting stuff out day1, so I make sure all fastener heads are well coated, I just use a pin and 90 psi to clear out the heads. I use stainless fasteners on some crawlers as they take much less abuse, but need real hardened steel on the bashers.
Anyone else run into too long of axle diff pinions? Im still waiting on a few parts to gut my Mohave, so bought the complete Vitavon kit for my Super Rock Rey after too many broken parts just rolling down the street! I found the pinion gears cut too thick, trying to cut their way out of the axle & front diff housings, and none available anywhere…. So I used my micrometer and cut them down, 90% drivetrain noise gone, we’ll see how they hold up? Should finish today…I also always leave a break point that is cheap & easy to fix, in this case the link to the servo saver is $8.00, can swap it in 5 minutes. I learned the expensive way racing 1/5ths!
Have a GREAT 4th!

 

[Unsprung1]

As noted earlier, I believe my Wife is ready to club me in my sleep! This is my living room coffee table, so I can watch racing while I build! Add the fact my kitchen table is covered in parts I’ve been in a thrash to have 4 vehicles ready for the mountains and it’s too hot to work in my garage right now! Guess what showed up in the mail pile we didn’t check yesterday? A single axle ring & pinion to replace the ”Sawzall’s“they installed from the factory and it’s .016 thinner than original. I took off .020 just to not carve up the Vitavon housings. Sent the Fuze ESC to a Buddy in Vegas for a reprogram, so far it feels like about 20+% more juice to motor, the dual fans go back on last because they get in the way, but so far after 2 packs the stock motor only hit 168 degrees max and smoking all four tires On asphalt just to temp check, also added a “3.5” setting to the braking, perfect for all the extra weight. The reason for this type temp check is the second “stock” servo puked after 20 minutes in the berm…Had to wait again for 1/5th servo mount, stole the 665 in/lbs Savox out of my OBR Racing/ Kraken Vekta 5 (Shattered gearbox) for the weekend. Off to Uwharrie ORP as soon as I’m finished!
Sorry about all the Losi, it’s on the bench right now figured just bigger cousins, but Arrma kills them in the QC Department! I wish Losi would learn something from Arrma!

 

[Homebrew]

Yesterday I put a Surpass 3670/2850 in my Typhon 3s. I chose to go down a bit in kv (3200 to 2850) for more torque but up in pinion size (15T to 18T) in an effort to keep the top speed near the same as stock. The top speed works well for me, and the increased torque really helps power my heavy Pro-Line belted Trenchers.

Good idea!

 

[JeanGrc]

I own a Senton and a Big Rock and both are good fun cars but I'm getting tired of the constant wrenching on them. I know its all part of the hobby but it feels like there's something to fix or replace after every session and I don't bash really hard. In the last few weeks I've had a seized motor a blown esc, 2 spur gears shredded etc. I recently just bought an X Maxx and have run about 8-10 packs through it and have yet to even have to tighten anything on it. I think I would like a Mojave or Kraton 6s to accompany the X Maxx now as I think I prefer driving the bigger rigs.

I have a Granite who recently had a seized motor...my Senton had a strip Spur gear...in the past i had mostly Arrma 6S.
What a difference in quality...

 

[dure16]

A $280 dollar set of Pro-Line

Holy wow