Big Rock Steel Diff update

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My Senton had diff issues yesterday after running the BR. The front bearing on the input gear exploded and ruined the mesh so it was clicking. Upon removal the diff and input gear were in great condition. Just the buggered bearing.

SO this proves that by driving it on less power and or just more responsible has saved my diffs.
 
Went looking for the last thread we were discussing this on and couldnt find it from my phone. Finally had a few minutes today to put the metal diff in the rear of my BR.

Im bummed that I couldnt use the Hot Racing red aluminum diff carrier I bought, as when I mock assembled it the new input shaft /new bearings were actually a little sloppy and not in a way i could shim out. Went back to the supplied exb carrier and everything was snug as should be.

Reassembled everything, checking along the way several times to ensure smooth moving parts, and I was just about to put the wheels on, spun the cvd’s one more time and they LOCKED UP !!! I slowly spun it back and forth and it felt like something was catching like a screw or pin. So one step at a time I slowly pulled it apart, and no difference from any hardware removal. I get it all the way back apart and even though I had both thoroughly cleaned the housings pieces and also visually inspected the new in package parts, some how this little piece of plastic was stuck in the spur gear. It allowed appx 355 degrees of rotation each direction and then would contact the pinion and lock it up. Even though its plastic and appears to be from the OEM parts failure, I wouldnt want it going thru my new metal gears!
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Doesn't take much to upset the spur and pinion mesh, lucky you found it.

So far my metal rear diff is holding up 100%. 20 or so packs through and I'm certainly over the taking it easy period and driving it (for me) quite aggressively. Well worth the money IMO.
 
Good to know. Its been so dang wet here with the rain before the hurricane and all the rain after, ive barely ran mine at all. I think Im going to get one ordered for my Senton that takes the most abuse, as I am thinking about doing a 4s build on it, and turn it into a 4s Monster Senton, and throw some heavy duty style parts at it.
Also, finally watched your video on this thread and WOW is that your property ? If so that looks like Heaven for off road RC fun.
 
Good to know. Its been so dang wet here with the rain before the hurricane and all the rain after, ive barely ran mine at all. I think Im going to get one ordered for my Senton that takes the most abuse, as I am thinking about doing a 4s build on it, and turn it into a 4s Monster Senton, and throw some heavy duty style parts at it.
Also, finally watched your video on this thread and WOW is that your property ? If so that looks like Heaven for off road RC fun.

Thanks man yeah it's my property. I walk out
of my shed right into my bashing track. I've got 2 other paddocks I need to work on to make them great for my RCs. I can't wait for summer to develop them more.
 
I know it's very hard to believe, but lifting the remote when jumping doesn't make it jump higher. ;) (I do it all the time too!)

Looks like a fun spot to run in!

You're right. Raising your remote only gets you that last 5 degrees of rotation when doing backflips. (y)
 
I know it's very hard to believe, but lifting the remote when jumping doesn't make it jump higher. ;) (I do it all the time too!)

Looks like a fun spot to run in!

Just shows how uncomfortable I am doing backflips. I usually land them but haven't learned to stop waving my paws around haha. I'm still such a noob. 😆😆
You're right. Raising your remote only gets you that last 5 degrees of rotation when doing backflips. (y)

Thats 5 degrees too much normally for me 😏
 
Update #001001

Had some diff clicking yesterday so tore down the rear steel diff ... and it was in perfect condition. Dunno how many packs but a lot and no visible wear to the crown or input gears. The internal gears also showed no wear but the oil level was pretty low. I packed that sucker full of marine grease (because it's all I've got) and reassembled it all.

So the clicking must be from the front diff. Yep a worn out input gear so replaced that

The BR now runs perfectly and the rear diff feels a lot more 'locked' with all that grease in it. It's not really locked but it sure seems a lot more direct.
 
Update #001001

Had some diff clicking yesterday so tore down the rear steel diff ... and it was in perfect condition. Dunno how many packs but a lot and no visible wear to the crown or input gears. The internal gears also showed no wear but the oil level was pretty low. I packed that sucker full of marine grease (because it's all I've got) and reassembled it all.

So the clicking must be from the front diff. Yep a worn out input gear so replaced that

The BR now runs perfectly and the rear diff feels a lot more 'locked' with all that grease in it. It's not really locked but it sure seems a lot more direct.
You have put marine grease inside the diff or around it?
If you've put it inside im shure it is almost locked.
 
Funny, did near similar when putting the exb metal diff in my BR. Was low, didnt have a bottle, grabbed finger full of Bel-Ray waterproof grease from my dirt bike maintenance shelf and stuffed it full. haven't noticed any difference but Im honestly not sure I would know anyway.
 
Update #001001

Had some diff clicking yesterday so tore down the rear steel diff ... and it was in perfect condition. Dunno how many packs but a lot and no visible wear to the crown or input gears. The internal gears also showed no wear but the oil level was pretty low. I packed that sucker full of marine grease (because it's all I've got) and reassembled it all.

So the clicking must be from the front diff. Yep a worn out input gear so replaced that

The BR now runs perfectly and the rear diff feels a lot more 'locked' with all that grease in it. It's not really locked but it sure seems a lot more direct.

Good update on the Arrma 3S metal diff it's on my list so thx for the updates...!
 
Man Im having issues again with mine. First it was a little piece of left over plastic from the oem diff getting stuck in the new exb metal spur/pinion. Now this week i noticed a funny sound each time I start from a dead stop. Once the cars rolling its fine and the noise stops. Today while doing a little Fall Cleaning on the power module, i decided to check it out the noise a little more.

First thing I noticed with both rear wheels off the ground was I could spin one around one full revolution and it would become a locked diff. Happened with either wheel. Well that says to me something is hung up AGAIN in the spur and contacting the pinion at full rotation. Take it apart and NOPE, no issues there.

So I go ahead and pull the carrier apart and pull the spur and diff covers and WAAAALAAAHHH!!!! The small center bearing has disintegrated and the smallest little ballbearings Ive seen are all floating in the diff fluid and locking up gears as they turn.

UNFRIGGIN REAL with this EXB part as Ive still only ran 3 packs thru it since brand new and it’s internally failed already ! Additionally FYI there was very minimum amount of fluid inside the diff housing (see pics) from the factory.
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@BulletRCs_NZ Hi, recently the front input gear in my big rock decided to shred half of itself. I was wondering what the metal diff you are using is and is it still holding up well? Anything else I need to go along with it? Thank you.
 
@BulletRCs_NZ Hi, recently the front input gear in my big rock decided to shred half of itself. I was wondering what the metal diff you are using is and is it still holding up well? Anything else I need to go along with it? Thank you.

Hey bro, yep the steel diff is still holding up sweet as in the Typhon. I can fully recommend it.

Link to steel diff https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-3110...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
It's completely plug and play. I wish I had one for my Senton as well.
 
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