Kraton Steering binding

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Sargent_Horse

Sargent_Horse

Very Active Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
1,641
Reaction score
1,798
Location
Mesa, AZ
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton 6s
I replaced one of my hubs because I cross threaded the pillow ball nut. While I was doing that I did some maintenance by taking both hubs off and cleaning the pillow balls. Now when I turn to full-left lock the steering reaches a point of resistance before like "clicking" into full left lock. This doesn't happen with full right lock. I readjusted the pillow ball tension again and the issue persists. I am not currently attached to the servo, so it should turn freely. I've linked a video of whats happening. Any ideas?

 
Is everything lined up properly in your steering? Make sure it's not something upstream of that, like the linkage connected to the servo, or something catching a rock guard. So after removing the turnbuckle it still clicks like that? It has to be something associated with the knuckle/pillowball interaction. are the cups inside the knuckle installed the proper direction?
 
It would appear that the Ackermann plate is rubbing against the center diff casing. I guess my Ackermann plate is bent then, doesn't look like it though. Should I try to rebend it or get a new one? I haven't bashed too hard or run into anything.


20210416_124805.jpg
 
In the second video it looks like that bearing is wore out and the whole part is moving. You can clearly see the bearing moving
 
Interesting. My ackerman gets close, but doesn't touch. Maybe it is bent? Try pulling it off and see if it lays flat? If it is bent, it will be weakened. I'd just get a new one.
 
Sargent_Horse said:
In the post to the right? It's a bushing still, will be switching to bearings tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Oh, ok. In the video it looks like a bearing. Either way it is moving when the ackerman plate moves and looks to be the cause of the rubbing. Could be wrong though. Hard to tell from the video
 
TexAg09 said:
Interesting. My ackerman gets close, but doesn't touch. Maybe it is bent? Try pulling it off and see if it lays flat? If it is bent, it will be weakened. I'd just get a new one.
Click to expand...
If your going that far, upgrade it to M2C or scorched RC. I have the latter on my outcast after bending 2 of them, but took a while to get here.
 
Yeah, the other side of the plate is barely touching the diff and the side in the video is rubbing heavily. I knew they bent easy, but damn, didn't expect that easy. I'll try to fix it temporarily and see if the new bearings help.
 
Make sure the Ackerman plate is actually bent, don't jump to conclusions and miss the actual problem.
Bearing(s) are #1, those columns have a total of 4 (2ea.) top and bottom.
Yes, go to M2C Ackerman plate, don't waste time or money on a new stock one. Yes, you can straighten it out as well but this is a pain to work on.
A bent Ackerman plate typically does NOT do what you are seeing, hence the concern there is something else going on.

Are you sure the diff housing is properly seated and doesn't have a stripped screw holding it down?
 
jkflow said:
Make sure the Ackerman plate is actually bent, don't jump to conclusions and miss the actual problem.
Bearing(s) are #1, those columns have a total of 4 (2ea.) top and bottom.
Yes, go to M2C Ackerman plate, don't waste time or money on a new stock one. Yes, you can straighten it out as well but this is a pain to work on.
A bent Ackerman plate typically does NOT do what you are seeing, hence the concern there is something else going on.

Are you sure the diff housing is properly seated and doesn't have a stripped screw holding it down?
Click to expand...

I've yet to remove the diffs, but I'll check. I'm going to ensure the plate is straight, make sure everything is tight, and install bearings tomorrow hopefully and see where I'm at then. I'd be surprised if the bushings were that badly destroyed after the 10 or so packs I've run through it.
 
Not talking diffs, they have nothing to do with it. My concern is your gearbox, I keep calling it diff housing, my bad. Check it's bolted flush to the chassis (4x M4 screws).

Those bushing typically last forever, very odd indeed.
 
Just for anyone else who has the problem in the future, I found the cause. The driver side of the stock bell crank had just a little bit of up and down play in it. I shimmed the bottom to push the driver side of the bell crank up just a tad and the steering plate no longer hit the gearbox housing.
 
Sargent_Horse said:
Just for anyone else who has the problem in the future, I found the cause. The driver side of the stock bell crank had just a little bit of up and down play in it. I shimmed the bottom to push the driver side of the bell crank up just a tad and the steering plate no longer hit the gearbox housing.
Click to expand...
I noticed this to today installing the M2c hinge pin kit. I straightened out my Ackerman plate. Noticed a bind turning right. 100% my issue is the floating bell crank. I’ll have to remove it and shim like you did
 

Similar threads

D
Kraton Kraton 6s weak steering
Replies
10
Views
410
Kiba.k9
Kiba.k9
Zen
Typhon Steering Drift 😡
Replies
5
Views
501
Zen
Zen
BruceRC
Kraton Steering bearings install question
Replies
18
Views
528
332_RC
332_RC
FastMann40
Typhon Steering Servo upgrade
Replies
3
Views
647
nomis38
nomis38
Twisted8221
Kraton Steering issue
Replies
12
Views
822
SrC
SrC
Back
Top