Limitless Steering post removal

[LicketySplit]

I’ve seen this here before. First screw came out from the bottom. Second. Not so much. I’m just transferring everything over to the scorched chassis so if the bottom can loosen up I’m good. Still need to get the top screws off to get rid of the bushings and replace them with bearings. Before I go all hulk on this thing is there a simple trick I’m missing?

 

[Moirae]

lol I had this same problem and I finally got one out and pretty much destroyed the other one so I'll never be able to get it out but then I realized I didn't need to remove the 2 bottom screws to remove the bellcrank

When you spin the bottom the top will also spin, you need to stop the top screw from spinning so you need 2 hex drivers, also probably need to add some heat from a soldering iron or blow torch.

 

[LicketySplit]

lol I had this same problem and I finally got one out and pretty much destroyed the other one so I'll never be able to get it out but then I realized I didn't need to remove the 2 bottom screws to remove the bellcrank

When you spin the bottom the top will also spin, you need to stop the top screw from spinning so you need 2 hex drivers, also probably need to add some heat from a soldering iron or blow torch.

Stopping the top one from spinning just unscrews the top plate since the post spins leaving the bottom in place. I added some orange thread locker to the top screw and will hit the bottom with torch and go from there.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

will hit the bottom with torch and go from there.

Torch should do the trick, just point that towards the center of the chassis and not towards the plastic bits up front.

 

[LicketySplit]

Torch should do the trick, just point that towards the center of the chassis and not towards the plastic bits up front.

That’s the plan. I have a good micro torch so I’ll hit the screw from the bottom and have at it. Most of the heat should be absorbed by the posts and the bushings. I hope.
On a side note. Damn Arrma and their gorilla snot. Was gonna put m2c drive cups on and these grubs are stuck also. Really close to the diff case so I’m thinking soldering iron.

 

[K-BASH]

Sodering iron down in there for a bit also works well..they use a ton of LT from the factory on certain screws...especially the steering post..
BTW I'd upgrade from the stock input cups..with the set screw on opposite side of flat spot is a horrible design especially for higher rpm applications.i like these tekno ones,4mm set screws an spin Tru an straight. Wobbly ones will come apart an also destroy plastic diff housings quik

Sodering iron down in there for a bit also works well..they use a ton of LT from the factory on certain screws...especially the steering post..
BTW I'd upgrade from the stock input cups..with the set screw on opposite side of flat spot is a horrible design especially for higher rpm applications.i like these tekno ones,4mm set screws an spin Tru an straight. Wobbly ones will come apart an also destroy plastic diff housings quik

NEVERMIND,M2C ARE EVEN BETTER,DIDNT FULLY READ IT

 

[LicketySplit]

Sodering iron down in there for a bit also works well..they use a ton of LT from the factory on certain screws...especially the steering post..
BTW I'd upgrade from the stock input cups..with the set screw on opposite side of flat spot is a horrible design especially for higher rpm applications.i like these tekno ones,4mm set screws an spin Tru an straight. Wobbly ones will come apart an also destroy plastic diff housings quik

View attachment 213411

NEVERMIND,M2C ARE EVEN BETTER,DIDNT FULLY READ IT

Yea dude. It took me a minute. Even after I got the set screw out. I had to heat the thing up again to even just pull the cup off. But round one is complete. Rear is “done”. Gonna go back to the front steering posts now. Hopefully I won’t have this issue again since I’m using orange loctite. Best thing since sliced bread and beer

 

[K-BASH]

Yea dude. It took me a minute. Even after I got the set screw out. I had to heat the thing up again to even just pull the cup off. But round one is complete. Rear is “done”. Gonna go back to the front steering posts now. Hopefully I won’t have this issue again since I’m using orange loctite. Best thing since sliced bread and beer View attachment 213432

Heat and patience and you'll be good..strip-um-2-bad then ya gotta drill it out..MIP

 

[LicketySplit]

Heat and patience and you'll be good..strip-um-2-bad then ya gotta drill it out..MIP

Sheeeeeit. You ain’t gotta tell me MIP. Lol. Got the front off. One post stayed the other didn’t. On to the next challenge!!