Steering rack bearings for 6s models.

[slick2500]

For the life of me I cannot remember the size of the flanged bearings to replace the flanged bushings on the ackerman plate?

 

[SrC]

For the life of me I cannot remember the size of the flanged bearings to replace the flanged bushings on the ackerman plate?
[/QUOTE

Never thought we could replace those flanged bushings in the ackerman plate.. I would like to do that also. I only know of the (4) 6x10x3mm bearings in the bellcrank. That would really free up the steering. If ball raced at all pivot points.

 

[slick2500]

Never thought we could replace those flanged bushings in the ackerman plate.. I would like to do that also. I only know of the (4) 6x10x3mm bearings in the bellcrank. That would really free up the steering. If ball raced at all pivot points.

Yeah there was a thread somewhere on here about them but I haven't been able to find it.

 

[Ari33]

Never thought we could replace those flanged bushings in the ackerman plate.. I would like to do that also. I only know of the (4) 6x10x3mm bearings in the bellcrank. That would really free up the steering.

Was just thinking about that today but I've never seen any axial type bearings that would be small enough to do the job.. so I'm intrigued.

Also.. maybe my posts need replaced but It seems you cant tighten the top plate down fully if you want to avoid any binding. Is this the same for everyone?

The 4 bellcrank bearings DO remove a lot of slop and free up the steering mechanism a lot, much less friction, highly recommended.

Another surprising thing I noticed was that the stock arma servo arm (or at least mine!) was a source of play (albiet a small one) in the steering but I only noticed when I put the HR servo arm on... it was just a far tighter fit on the teeth due to being able to nip it onto the servos crown pinion with the small bolt/grub screw it has. Rock solid with no wobble.
don't use the HR servo linkage though, its utter crap with no real balljoint just rubber O-rings and it adds more play than the stock Arrma one.

 

[slick2500]

Was just thinking about that today but I've never seen any axial type bearings that would be small enough to do the job.. so I'm intrigued.

Also.. maybe my posts need replaced but It seems you cant tighten the top plate down fully if you want to avoid any binding. Is this the same for everyone?

The 4 bellcrank bearings DO remove a lot of slop and free up the steering mechanism a lot, much less friction, highly recommended.

Another surprising thing I noticed was that the stock arma servo arm (or at least mine!) was a source of play (albiet a small one) in the steering but I only noticed when I put the HR servo arm on... it was just a far tighter fit on the teeth due to being able to nip it onto the servos crown pinion with the small bolt/grub screw it has. Rock solid with no wobble.
don't use the HR servo linkage though, its utter crap with no real balljoint just rubber O-rings and it adds more play than the stock Arrma one.

Mine seems like I can't tighten it down enough, my entire bellcrank moves up and down on the posts.

 

[Ari33]

Mine seems like I can't tighten it down enough, my entire bellcrank moves up and down on the posts.

I take it you are using the bronze bushes? I'm thinking the bearings might be a tad thicker, I'll need measure them..

 

[slick2500]

I take it you are using the bronze bushes? I'm thinking the bearings might be a tad thicker, I'll need measure them..

Nope bearings.

 

[Ari33]

Nope bearings.

Edit- Ah... that will be because I'm using the HR bellcranks..

Is this thread what you were looking for?

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/kraton-rubber-sealed-ball-bearing-kits.9048/

 

[slick2500]

Edit- Ah... that will be because I'm using the HR bellcranks..

Is this thread what you were looking for?

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/kraton-rubber-sealed-ball-bearing-kits.9048/

Yup

 

[SrC]

I find there is up and down slop on the drivers side (slave side)of the OE bellcrank with ballbearings installed. Do not overtighten to try and accommodate that. That will cause other issues. What it is...best left as is .

 

[Mongoose]

Mine would move up and down on the post too but all I did was add shims between the plate and top post bearing inner race. Don’t remember the size though.

 

[SrC]

Mine would move up and down on the post too but all I did was add shims between the plate and top post bearing inner race. Don’t remember the size though.

I considered shimming that also, but I was afraid to bind up that bellcrank. It is smooth as silk with the BB's. So I left as is.